Crank but no start

Hello,

In the diagrams down below I have included the vehicle manufacturers diagnostic factory troubleshooting guide for your vehicle's ignition system. It does call for the use of a breakout box, which is available for purchase on Ebay or Amazon. Please go through the guide and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Here is a guide that can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start


Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Here is an update: I now have spark apparently when I installed the first crankshaft position sensor I had sheared the magnet off the sensor so now I have spark fuel pressure is around 20 psi. when I turn the key but truck will not start inertia switch seems to be working properly. ir is now registering rpm's when I try to crank but check engine light never comes on.

Hello,

Okay, the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) not only signals the Power-train Control Module (PCM) when to fire the ignition coils but it also signals the PCM when the fire the fuel injectors as well. Can you crank the engine for a few seconds and then pull a spark plug and see if it's wet with fuel or dry. That way we can see if the fuel injectors are firing or not. Please try this and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

They are wet with fuel and an update. I went ahead and changed the fuel pump and truck will still not start it sounds like it fires a couple of times then nothing. just crank crank if I continue.

Are the plugs wet with fuel again? This could be due to a shorted fuel injector which cause the injector driver inside the ECU to go full on. Here is a guide to check the injectors:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Please run down this guide and report back.

I have checked for power to injectors they have power and when I had a helper crank the engine I had a pulsing ground signal. I changed 3 of the injectors cylinders 1,2,and 4 because they were easy to get to and I had the injectors. the truck will still not stay running unless of course i spray starter fluid into the intake and continue to spray the truck will stay running off the starter fluid. when I stop spraying truck shuts off.

I could not check the resistance of the injectors because I do not have access to a volt meter.

Hello again,

Could you please check Fuse #18(20A) in the Under hood Fuse Block in your vehicle. This is the fuse that powers your vehicle's fuel pump. In the diagrams down below I have included a wiring diagram of your vehicle's fuel pump circuit for reference as well as a diagram and callout for the Under hood Fuse Block of your vehicle for you. Here is a link on how to check a fuse, if needed, for you as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I have checked that fuse and it is good. I broke down and called a mobile mechanic and he hooked his snap on computer to the truck checked injectors with a kit and several other things he told me that every thing seems to be working as it should but there is some water in the gas and suggested that I empty the gas tank exchange my fuel pump for a new one just in case and replace the fuel filter with a new one. Does this sound accurate as far as you can tell? The amount of water that was in the gas as best as I can describe was about 1/8th inch of clear fluid settled to the bottom of a 20 oz bottle of gas. I know the fuel pressure koeo at the rail is within spec for the pump around 40 psi. Do I need to exchange my new pump for another one or should I just empty gas and replace the in line fuel filter. Refill with good gas? The mechanic that did the diagnostic claimed that if it did not work he would come back out for free also that he is 99.9% sure that the gas is my problem.

Hello again,

Yes it does. That is the reason I was having you check the fuse. It sounded like a fuel related issue to me. That is why you could start your vehicle and keep it running with starting fluid. I was checking and making sure that your vehicle's fuel pump was working.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Okay, now here is another update. I emptied gas, cleaned tank out, replaced fuel pump, and filter. truck still will not start. new plugs wires and coil packs, checked injectors they seem good. I am getting fuel pressure truck seems like it wants to start but it will not stay running. the inertia switch looks fine, it has not been tripped. I pushed the button up then back down just in case. If the inertia switch is bad will the fuel pump prime at all? The pump is working for koeo prime I know for a fact so I'm not sure where to go from here.

Hello again,

Okay, this could be a problem with your vehicle's Idle Air Control(IAC) valve. It let's air bypass the closed throttle plate at idle to keep your engine running. Here is a link for a generic guide on a IAC below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

In the diagrams down below I have included the IAC location, testing, and how it operates specifically for your vehicle. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

i just asked a question about my truck not starting. The truck cranks but wont start. i know the fuel pump is working. when i try to crank it the possitive battery terminal gets very hot. is there a short somewhere or is the normal? I terminal is tight. could it be the timing belt? how would I check that. I am at a loss and dont have a lot of cash to replace things. Please advise me on where I should look next.

clean battery terminal ends first as they can be corroded inside and not where you can see them. if it doesn 't turn over it can get hot from to much draw from
starter. check for spark at plugs should be almost bluish. then check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.

Just bought a 94 mazda b2300 2.3l with 220000mi ...has been running and starting ...have been checking codes for rough idle ...turned off and tried to restart....just clicking from starter relay...had starter checked at o'reilly and is ok...re-installed starter and same result...cleaned battery terminals and relay points of contact ....tried to jump relay and getting clicking from starter...will not crank . battery fully charged...any suggestions?..appreciate any incites.

If you only get a clicking from the starter when you turn the key, either you have a bad connection (battery, ground...) the relay is bad, the starter is bad, or the clutch safety switch is bad.

Yeah..I will check it out tomorrow but think more towards the relay, had the starter checked twice and no prob....but have not checked on the clutch safety switch...by the way don't know how to check the switch but will look it up..will also check the ground connections...probably needs to addressed anyway..Thank You .......Dave

Dave, the switch is easy to check. There should be power to it and nothing out until you depress the clutch.

Let me know what you find. Also, double check the ground to the engine block as well as the condition of the battery cables themselves.

Thank You ..This is why these sites exist... for us all to learn...or if not think..

I'm glad to help. Let me know what you find.

I asked this question a fews days ago and really didnt get an answer. I started my truck the other day and drove it one mile and shut it off. now it cranks but wont start. i can hear the fuel pump run so i know its not that. when i try to crank it now the positive battery terminal gets really hot. the connection is good. I dont know if that means there is a short somewhere or what. what could possibly be the problem why it wont start. I dont know where to turn. i really need some help. what should i try and what should I look for. HELP PLEASE!!!

After cleaning the battery connector wires with baking soda and white vinegar, cleaned and re tightened a few ground wires in the engine compartment and not only started up but is now running smoother and no longer throwing codes...Thank You for great suggestions...Dave

if the connection is hot its either the cable is hitting the frame someplace or the starter is drawing to many amps or the connection is dirty-corrosion between post and clamp. If it doesn't turn over pull the starter off and have it tested. auto parts does for free or hit starter on body and have an assistant crank it if it starts then the starter is bad. also just because you hear the pump run mean it's good. check pressure with a gauge.

Great! Glad you got it going.

Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe

Still not running right...Still having problems. went to o'reillys and had the codes checked...p0440 with the emissions....I know that the spark plugs need to be replaced and ordered motorcraft sp432 plugs. Have new wires and the coils are OK. I am also trying to check the IAC but need to know the procedure to do so. The cat has been removed prior to me purchasing the vehicle...just still not running right..........is there a way of checking IAC with an ohm meter or a different way.Driving me crazy..this is how it is....need suggestions..or do I need to check something else...if you fnd the time get back to me...Dave

There is no catalytic converter? That can be an issue. The O2 sensors help the computer determine air/fuel ratio.

I shut the truck off and went to restart it. it cranked but would not start. i hear the fuel pump running. when i try to crank it the possitive battery terminal gets really hot and sparks. what is my problem?

The sparking at the battery cable means you have a bad connection but I kinda doubt that will be your whole problem. Fix that first and see what you have then.

The connection is good that shouldn't be the reason it cranks but won't start. Why it's gets so hot must mean a short maybe in the starter. Why is it getting hit and why won't it start even though it cranks?

OK, apparently you have your own answers.