Crank but no spark

Good morning,

If you have no RPM signal, then your crank sensor is not sending a signal.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-not-running-advanced

I would start with a crank sensor to be sure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

I attached the procedure below for you of the repair.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Roy

I should have mentioned that I have replaced both crank and cam sensors and both are getting power as well as the injectors. What other sensors can i check that would keep the coil pack from firing? Have a new coil and get power to it. And have replaced PCM.

Is it possible wiring harness is bad? Have continuity from all components to PCM.

Did you check the compression?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

I would start there and make sure the timing is correct.

Roy

Checked timing 3 times and compression is very good. One strange thing that I did notice is that my timing marks on the cams we're not what the factory was saying what's correct for the timing they were actually 180 degrees opposite but I went with what the Z Tech Factory says was correct. And I used the recommended timing belt and timing plate for the cams. Is it possible that my reluctor plate on my flywheel may have something going on? Like I said I am getting your crank signal according to my check engine light but I'm not getting the RPMs. So far everything to me it looks like it might be the wiring harness. On my last engine I would every once in a while have to shake my harness to get it to start up I've been working on this little issue for about 4 months and it's starting to really get to me because of double or triple check almost everything maybe I'm missing something I have all the wiring diagrams and PCM pinout and have followed everything to a T this is just a real mine blower.

What was the compression?

You may have been checking the marks in the overlap mode or 180 degrees off, which is okay.

Roy

155, 162,158,147 respectively cylinder 1 2 3 and 4.

Just to jump in on this could be a harness issue.

However, I would suggest we start by finding out what the voltage readings are at the coil when you are cranking the engine.

Basically, if you have replaced the PCM and coil we can assume there is something preventing the coil from firing, but it may not be the PCM.

Here is a guide that will help with checking the voltage:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I am specifically interested in the red wire coming from the relays. Basically, this wire is fed by the fuel pump relay which feeds the PCM power relay.

If we don't have power on this wire, then one of these relays could be the issue or one of the fuses feeding these relays.

Let us know what you have on each of these wires, and we can go from there. Thanks

Hey Ken, so I get 12 volts to the coil on the middle wire, but no spark. now I was getting a crank signal because the check engine light was turning off when I crank it, but since I did some testing the other day and took the wires at the crank sensor off to test a crank sensor which I get 1.5 volts whenever it's turned over. now the check engine light goes out for about 3 seconds then comes back on while I'm cranking it and I still get no RPM signal and it test the crank signal at the two wires that come off the crank sensor that go into the harness, but on the other side to the PCM. i don't get anything in the strangest thing is I have continuity on both wires all the way to the PCM. I'm leaning more towards a wiring harness but it's going to be hard to find one because this is not only the 2.0 zetec engine, it's also a manual transmission which is very rare. What I'm wondering is would a Mazda Tribute harness or a Ford Focus harness that was manual transmission on either one of those would that work also on a Ford escape with that zetec engine? I've checked every junkyard around here and Salvage yard in Houston and nobody has one nobody even has a manual transmission 2.0 zetec so either I'm going to have to get another engine and use that wiring harness from it from a Ford Focus or Mazda Tribute.

Okay. One more follow up just to be sure but I think you are confirming this.

You have 12 volts going to the coil on pin 2. What do you have on pin 3 the light green wire? The other wire is what interrupts the low voltage to create the high voltage spike. However, the PCM controls the coil on the light green wire. So, you can put your meter across pin 2 and 3 and it should be 12 volts.

If it does then I agree it sounds like a harness issue and I totally understand the issue of finding one.

I am sure the Mazda is going to be close, however, I can't guarantee it will be exact. However, this generation of vehicle they were pretty much the same vehicles.

I'm getting 12 volts on the middle wire but when I do the number two and number three, I don't get any voltage. I am only receiving.73 8 on my crank sensor at the p c m but at the beginning where the crank is I am receiving 1.5 to 2.5 my check engine light is going out but I'm not getting the RPM signal so I'm not getting a full crank signal I believe. I'm going to check for continuity again and check to see if I have any shorts the ground on the crank signal again and I am going to try a little experiment by simulating the crank wires by taking two new wires and wrapping them with foil with a ground running down in them and trying to see if I hook those up with alligator clips to the other side at the PCM and see if I get a different signal voltage then I'll know if my harnesses has definitely got a problem.

That is a creative way to test that, but it will give a result. Basically, you have a solid plan so let us know what you find. Thanks for keeping us updated on what you are doing.

Well, I'm getting fire to my coil now into my plugs. I actually simulated the two wires as close as I could to the harness, and I got the same size wires wrap them with a stranded stripped ground and then made a shield with tin foil around it and then wrapped rubberized electrician tape around that and it's actually firing now. I haven't started yet but it's a lot better than before. I'm sure I've got a probably boost my octane in my tank since it's been sitting for about 6 months with the same gas, I'm a little bit closer to getting this thing conquered. I've been in the commercial kitchen maintenance and A/C Refrigeration business for 35 years and I've never let a machine beat me and I wasn't going to let this one beat me either.

Good morning,

To confirm it is fuel-related, try spraying some starter fluid into the air filter and see if it starts and stalls.

Roy