Low engine power

The problem is the first thing I would do is scan all the computers for codes the ABS/traction control and engine control module.That would be my starting point. At least the engine codes would help. Sounds like its in reduce performance mode. I need the exact code numbers not code descriptions? Otherwise we are just guessing on which direction to even start.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

My brother has a computer I can see if I can get him out to hook it up and let you know.

Alright keep me posted on what you find unfortunately cars these days have so many computers. So you need a professional scan tool that can read all the computers perform special tests etc. For problems like these.

I recently inherited a 2001 Buick Regal and I have noticed a problem with the transmission. If you engage the cruise control at highway speeds, the car slows until it stops. When I tried to assist the car by pressing the gas pedal, it was already pegged to the floor. The car engine was not revving excessively, so this was a suprise. In the mornings, I have to go up a steep hill right out of my driveway. The car acts like it has no power at all and the engine almost seems to stall out. If I release the pedal and re-apply it, the car shudders and tries to shift to a lower gear, only to return to the higher gear. After several attempts of finding the "magic spot" with the gas pedal, the car seems to act fine. Sometimes, on a straightaway, the car acts like it has enough power to tear off the tires at take off and other times, it acts like it didn't even notice the gas pedal was pressed. I have had the car put on a computer and the mechanic said something about a "long range shift switch". Is it really as complicated as it sounds or is this a relatively easy fix? I can see my financial future growing dim.

Any way you can post the code for me? This sounds like either a bad TPS(throttle position sensor), or the fuel pump. Have both checked, or post the code please.

The code I have received is P1811.

Turn ignition on, engine off. Before clearing the DTCs, use the scan tool to record the failure records for reference. Using the CLEAR INFO function will erase the stored failure records from the PCM. Record the failure records. Clear the DTCs. Are any of DTCs P0121, P0122, P0123, P0218, P0502, P0503, P0711, P0712, P1121 or P1122 also set?

Fluid level low.
Oil filter and seal missing, plugged or damaged.
Spacer plate and gasket damaged or misassembled.
Pressure Control (PC) solenoid valve damaged or contaminated.

Let me know how it goes

The car recently has had a fuel filter, spark plug, wires and one coil pack replaced due to a code which shows a misfire on no.1 spark plug. The poor acceleration symptom went away and now it's back. It feels like the motor its starving for fuel and I have to depress the accelerator way down to the floor to achieve the desired speed. I purchased a fuel pressure regulator and I am about to instal it, but how do I know its not the fuel pressure regulator and its something else. Without a code, I don't want to chase a problem that does not exist.

Hello –

Please let me know if your model is a GS or LS. Also your engine size in liter and the 8th digit of your VIN.

Also, I know you had the code, but do you remember what the code number was?

For now, please go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O’Reilly’s (OR) and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.

Are you sure you are getting a good strong spark? If not, we need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don’t have your hands on any part of the metal!!! If there is no spark, then it is electrical.

If you are getting good spark then spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and try to start it and see if it tries to start then.

I wouldn’t change the pressure regulator yet. If you pull the vacuum hose on yours, is there fuel in it?

You may need to get a fuel pressure check on the fuel pump to ensure it is putting out okay. We will see.

I Have a 2003 Buick Regal LS with an odometer reading of 105,000KM/65,000Mi.
The battery on my car was replaced recently. Immediately afterward I noticed some odd shifting/higher revving but wrote it off to the car re-learning my diving and it’s settings. About 150KM after the battery change I was driving on the highway and noticed the RPM seemed about 300 higher than normal for the speed. When I got to a moderate hill the car kept downshifting and loosing speed. It shifted all the way down to first and it still kept slowing down. It seemed like the car had very little power or the transmission was slipping. I checked the transmission fluid level and it was full (and was flushed at 80K) and the air filter and air intake seemed clean and unbloacked (Airfilter eplaced 6,000KM ago). The car seems to shift properly in and out of gear. There are no idiot lights on and the dealer says there are no codes. I had the fuel filter replaced when the deal checked for codes. Driving around town the car is revving higher and accelerating slowly but able to keep up with traffic. Is there a way to rule out transmission/torque converter issues before delving into O2 sensors, Injectors, MAP, TPS, MAF, fuel pump, fuel regulator, vacuum issues, plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, cap and rotor, Catalytic converter, etc.

Of all the things you mentioned, I would tell you to start by checking the catylatic converter. If the light isn't on, there is a good chance it is starting to plug.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Thankyou very much for the reply. I will follow up once I find someone to assist me in doing that.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Catylatic converter seemed to be it. Had the Intake manifold done first, minor improvment, then cat brought it to 90% of the power I had before.

The second place did a temp test on cat, after dealer told me no option other than replacment to test.

Not sure if intake issue could have lead to cat clog, or these things just all go at once.

Thankyou for your help.

I'm glad you got it fixed. I had a feeling that was the problem. Everything you described led me to believe that. Actually, the intake could have caused the converter problem. Coolant, unburned fuel... could have caused it to melt down.

Take care and let us know if you have questions in the future. And thanks for using 2carpros.com.

Joe

Engine Performance problem
2003 Buick Regal 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

My Buick Regal is acting very sluggish. It does not want to rev up much past 2000 rpm when in gear. If you much above that it actually has less power. I thought it might be the transmission, because I had it serviced very recently, so I toke it to a tranny shop and they tested it with computer and a drive. they said it was not the transmission, maybe a fuel filter. I was scepticle because it would rev up fine in neutral or park, but not in gear. I went and had the filter changed just to make sure, and as I thought, it did not help any. It feels like it is being held back somehow. Any help would be appreciated

The demands of your engine change under different circumstances.

While in park or nuetral, there's no load, while in drive or reverse, the entire weight of your car creates a tremendous load on the motor.

Unfortunately, it's impossible to diagnose your problem from here, but I can give you the procedure to check.

First, check your computer for codes.

Second, check the ignition system. Make sure there's no misfire. check all plugs and wires.

Third, make sure you have proper fuel pressure while the engine is under load. You do this by hooking up a pressure gauge that can be seen from the passenger compartment while driving.

Fourth check that the injectors aren't clogged. They can feed a engine not under load just fine, but won't supply enough fuel once you get in drive.

Fifth, check a clogged cat or exhaust system, though I doubt this as your engine wouldn't rev high in park either.

Lastly, check the computer/sensors for a faulty part. (Including the wires and connectors)

my 2001 buick regal is bogging down and not accelerating. it takes about 5 minutes to get up to 50mph. when at an idle, i can give it gas and it sounds like it is being muffled and just not taking the gas. i seems to shift fine while on the road and the transmission fluid level is fine. i have changed the fuel filter and it still bogs down. is there a module that could be bad or the catylatic converter stopped up? please help.

I would do a fuel pressure test and a exhaust back pressure test sound's like you could have a plugged cat.

runs well, with slow acceleration it seems to cut out but if I accelerate hard it pulls out of cut-out and accelerates well.

Sounds like ignition problem. When was the last time you did a full, complete tune-up on this vehicle?

This is the Sounds like ignition problem show the mechanic.

I recently had a tune up including spark plug wires and an EGR valve replaced. 400.00 later I still have the same problem. The car does not want to accelerate over 35 mph and I am being told different things by different people. Do you have any ideas.

Have the TPS/MAF/MAP sensors checked out to include the fuel pressure. These components are okay-Get the tranny checked-

.Hi my 2002 buick regal rmp gauge goes up but the speed gauge stays the same,basically the car does not goes fast as I press the gas pedal,instead the rpm goes up and feel like it's draging an makes a squish squish noise(this happens when taking off or the speed gauge is above 20 mph) can you please tell me what is the problem
thanks

it may be a transmission problem. check your fluid and make sure it's full. if your check engine light is on then have it scaned,most auto parts stores do this for free. Have a trans guy check the trans, they will scan it as well as the auto parts stores will not pickup those codes.

it idles fine but when you step on the gas it bogs down. i have changed the plugs, plug wires and coil whats next?

Hello,

This sounds like you have a catalytic converter that is plugged or you have weak fuel pressure here are three guides to help us find the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator


Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Thanks for the guides I had this problem and when through the guides to find my fuel pump has shot so Installed a new one everything is working great again, thanks!

feels like when you give it gas it doesnt take it and boggs down

Could be caused by one of the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing.

I believe I purchased bad gas. The car is sputtering and has loss of power. Can it be fuel filters?

Possibilities: Inspect and test all the following listed below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard