Engine missing and backfiring

Disconnect the MAF and see if the issue smooths out. If it does then the PCM is getting a faulty MAF signal. Either from wiring or the sensor.

I then attached the codes if this doesn't resolve it. I would start with the 22 code and move to what I suspect you meant was 34. 33 is a wheel speed sensor code.

Run through this info and let me know what you find. Thanks

I noticed when I'm reading your repair pages you posted that it refers a lot of times to shorts. That is something I should have mentioned in my statement. The car must have a short because the battery keeps going dead. Is it possible the 2 issues are related?

It is possible. So what I would do it run through the test and see if you have a short. If not, then you may have two issues. At that point we can get a new post started and figure out the battery draw issue.

However, if you do, we repair it and see if that fixed the draw issue.

MAP sensor reads 0 whether key on or off. I also read that a the code 45 should make the car smoke and run rough at idle, But not the case here, No smoke or rough idle.

I did notice when I try to rev it up it hesitates.

When you say you are getting 0 for the MAF does that mean you are following these steps and getting to the circled step? If so, then you have an open circuit, shorted to ground, or a PCM issue. I would check resistance from the PCM to the MAF sensor pin A and then check pin A to pin B.

From PCM to pin A you should have less then a half ohm of resistance. From A to B you should have an open circuit which means it is not shorted to ground.

If this checks out then you most likely have a PCM issue.

As for the no smoke or running rough, that can happen but is not proof of not having an issue. However, this code will cause a hesitation so I would address the MAF issue and then move on and retest the operation once that is operating.

Is it possible I don't have a MAP sensor?

Correct. You do not have a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. You have a MAF (Mass air flow) sensor. They are just two different ways of telling the PCM how much air is entering the engine. The MAP will measure the pressure in the manifold and based on this, it calculates how much air it is pulling in.

The MAF is actually an air flow meter that measures the amount of air that is passing by it so the PCM doesn't need to calculate air flow to determine how much fuel to mix with the air to achieve the proper mixture.

Well that narrows it down. I think i'll replace the MAF and see what happens. It's funny how some show the vehicle with a MAP and some don't. The parts store had one to sell me, but I didn't buy it. I tried to buy the MAF but they didn't have any. I'll order one online. Thanks again, I'll keep you posted.

Sounds great. Yeah. Parts catalogs are not always completely accurate. The MAP that they tried to sell you may have been the correct part, just not labeled correctly. Good idea with ordering it online.

Let us know what happens. Thanks for the update.

I tested the MAF sensor again, with the key on, engine off. I tested from terminal (A) to ground and got a reading of 2.20V. So if I follow the chart it say's ckt492 open shorted to ground or faulty PCM. How do I test the shorted ckt 492 or PCM?

Sorry, but I can't find a diagram that shows the ckt 492.

I'm not sure if I mentioned it, but my battery keep going dead, like I have a short.

Okay. The way to test for a short to ground is you put one of your meter leads in terminal A and then touch the other to a good ground location like the negative battery terminal. You need to have your meter on ohms and you should have an open circuit. If you have resistance from terminal A to ground then that means they are making contact which is a short to ground. To test for an open circuit, you need to unhook it from both ends and put one lead in each end of the circuit and check ohms. You should have less then a half ohm of resistance. If you have an high resistance or an open then that is the issue. If neither of these, they say to replace the PCM.

If your battery drains as well, we will need to get a new post started for that because that would not be related to this issue. So let's figure this issue out first and then move to the battery issue.

Now I went into town and came back. But when I tried to start it an hour later it won't even turn over. Battery is at 100 percent. Doesn't even turn over and it's like every light on the dash lights up. So I down loaded the repair manual for the car and it said try to reset the security system using the door locks and I think it worked cause when I was done the horn honked. But the car still won't crank.

Okay. If the car won't crank but the dash comes on shows that the ignition switch is at least functioning in the on position so let's move on to the control wire on the starter. Crank the engine and test for voltage on the purple wire at the starter. It is safe to say there is nothing there because this is the control wire. If nothing is there, go to the trans position switch and test it for voltage on the yellow wire when cranking.

If you have it then the position switch is the issue. If not, go before the relay and see if you have voltage.

Let me know these points and we can go from there. Thanks

Thanks again Kenny. I'll have to try this in the morning. Just as I think I'm getting close to the mass sensor problem. This has to happen. I know this car can run good, If I can just get it figured out. I found a part that's right next to the alternator where the plug wires run through. It had 3 nuts holding it on. So I took if off. Turned out to be something with a spring in it. But the gasket was all messed up. I don't know what it is. But it could be part or all of the problem.
It looked like it had a opening or a reservoir.

Can you get a picture of this? I am not exactly sure that would be off the top of my head. Thanks

yes, it's a mystery.

I like mysteries so let's figure this out. If you get a picture of it I am sure we can identify it. There are not too many parts on cars that stump me once we can see them. Thanks

I was crawling around the car today and I found a fuse panel up under the passenger side dash. Of course it's not in my book or could I find it online so I just started pulling fuses. The second one was one of those little red 10 amps and it was burnt out so I replaced it and the car started right up. So that's out of the way. Now for the mass air flow or whatever it is.I took it to the only shop we have in Happy Camp and Al looked at it and said he'd never seen anything like it but he said since it has a spring in it he thought it was the PCV, Any way I'm taking it to him in the morning and he's going to put the OB1 on it and see if he can figure out what's wrong. I will let you know what comes of it. He's the one that originally coded it for me 2 month's ago and hasn't done anything for it since. So I don't hold my breath. I told him I can fix it if he just test's it and tells me what's wrong. I figure 50/50 chance. I'll let you know.

I don't know if I told you but I was at Al's shop last Friday trying to get him to test the car, but he told me to come back the next day. Well when I went to leave the battery was dead, so Al brought out this huge yellow jumper box and gave the car a zap. I mean that car started right away, The zap was very powerful, I could feel it when it cranked it must have been a 50 amp jolt. So I drove home and and that's when it wouldn't start anymore, I think his jumper fried that fuse.

That could make sense about the no start and the fuse. I am not sure a PCV would have 3 bolts in it so I am curious to see it if you can snap a picture of it, that would be great. Thanks

Here's an update Kenny:

We were checking the spark and a couple cylinder were weak. So I thought it was the plug wires. So I drove 150 miles to Yreka and got a set of wires. But when I put them on it didn't make much difference. I started pulling the wires of from the coil pack 1 by 1 and the pack I have has 3 coils. each one does 2 cylinders. Well the bottom coil was the weak one, I had to order it online. I'm supposed to get it tomorrow. I've got my fingers crossed. I'll let you know.

Great. As I was reading through it I was hoping you were going to check the coils for a weak spark. I am going to assume that you got it once you replace it.

Let us know and we can go from there. Thanks

New coils, Still not much difference. Starts missing as soon as it goes under a load.

In reviewing this entire post, I didn't see any fuel pressure readings. If this is a misfire under load, we need to check fuel pressure. I am thinking we may have a fuel delivery issue but let's start with what the pressure is when this is misfiring.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Also, do you have a scan tool that you can look at o2 sensor data from the PCM?

Tomorrow it goes into the shop for more testing.

Okay. Great. Let us know what happens because this one has me curious. Thanks for the update.

Running like a dream. Turned out to be the middle sparkplug in the back.

Great update. Thanks for letting us know what it was. Glad you got it figured out. Come back next time and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The thanks goes to you Kenny, You very patiently guided me along and I needed that. Thanks for all your help. Let me tell you where I'm at now. Al my mechanic friend told me to take the battery terminals off and touch them together to clear the check engine code. Well I did that, but what is amazing is I put the positive terminal back on the battery and then started on the negative. While putting on the negative the engine started cranking, But I had the key's in my pocket so I thought at least it won't start, but oh yea. It started. I put the key in the ignition and turned it on but nothing happened, It kept running, I turned it to the off position and it kept running. Then I put my foot on the brake and it stopped. So I tried to start it with the key and it worked. It also didn't clear the code. I've changed a lot of batteries in my time, But I've never had one start while doing it. Maybe this has something to do with the battery dying. The mystery continues?

Thank you for the kind words. However, you did the work so the credit is all yours.

As for this issue I suspect we have an ignition switch issue but it is very odd that it just started out of nowhere, unless you have had issue with the ignition switch in the past.

We can dig into this but unfortunately we have to get a new post started. The only reason is, others will not find the solution to it starting on its own under this heading. Not only are we here to help you but hopefully as we help you solve these issues, others can read them if they are dealing with the same thing.

If you don't mind starting a new post, I will look for it and jump on it or one of our other experts will grab it. Either way, I am sure we will get that figured out. If you don't mind including whether it is starting normally now after it shut off or what it does when you try to start it.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Sorry for any inconvenience. Thanks