Clutch does not fully disengage?

If the clutch pedal feels okay, this happens when the clutch is worn out. The disc can fall apart and get stuck between the pressure plate and the flywheel, or the pilot bearing is frozen up causing the clutch to not disengage.

Here is a video and guide to help you as well:

https://youtu.be/EpBMj5ZY_bo

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/clutch-doesnt-work-sometimes-or-not-at-all

Here is a video of a clutch replacement on a similar car, the process is the same:

https://youtu.be/JpzefqEeVGE

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and flywheel less than 5,000 miles ago. The clutch doesn't slip, and I have plenty of Freeplay at the top of the pedal. It seems like there is not enough extension from the slave cylinder to disengage the clutch from between the pressure plate and flywheel. Would replacing the master and or the slave cylinder be a possible fix or am I barking up the wrong tree?

That could cause the issue, you might want to try bleeding the system first.

Never use fluid which has been bled from a system to fill the reservoir. It may be aerated, have too high of a moisture content and possibly be contaminated.
1. Fill reservoir with new DOT 3 brake fluid, then press and hold down clutch pedal.
2. Open bleed screw on actuator cylinder to expel air, then close bleed screw and release clutch pedal.
3. Repeat procedure until all air is out of system, noting the following:
a. Check and refill reservoir as needed during bleeding so air is not drawn into system.
b. After bleeding, pump clutch pedal several times. If clutch engagement is not satisfactory, repeat bleeding procedure.
4. If this procedure is unsuccessful, perform the following:
a. Remove reservoir cap, then pump pedal very fast for 30.0 seconds.
b. Stop to let air escape.
c. Repeat as necessary.

Please let us know what you find.