starter tried to engage but it just keeps cranking?

This sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor or the fuel pump has gone out, when you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds? These guides should help us fix it.

https://youtu.be/dCjmRL3p4Cs

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Also, lets run the codes to see what come up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

Drove in a puddle of water in my car and now car will not start.

check to see if your TPIM module under fuse box got wet that may be the problem. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Okay, I am waiting to have it towed. when I try to start the car it just cranks over.

It sounds like the TIPM.

Okay thanks, I had a new TIPM installed it started right up.

Drove my car one time yesterday and it cranked fine. Been in garage sitting until I got up this morning to take my kids to school and when I hit the push button it turns to run as if it is going to start, but makes a loud clicking noise as if it is trying to start and then turns off but still say run on the start button. Not sure what is going. Please help! I have uploaded a video also!

Well from the video it seems to be turning over fine, just not starting. That means it is either not getting spark or fuel. It looks like it has a crank signal as the tach seems to be moving up to around 150 rpm which would be about correct for cranking speed from the starter motor.

It did look like the fuel gauge read very low. While it isn't the most common thing you might try adding a few gallons to the tank and see if the gauge is correct. It wouldn't be the first time a sending unit was wrong.

It sounded like the fuel pump was operating but it's hard to tell for sure on modern cars.

Next would be to use a test light and check all the fuses in the front and rear power centers. This vehicle is in the range of the bad PDC units and those can cause a lot of strange failures.

To do much testing beyond that you need a factory level scan tool to be able to trigger items on/off and verify their operation.

Yes I did try adding fuel that did not work for me either. I installed a new fuel pump that seem to fix it, no problems so far.

Replaced the oil sending unit and the car turns over but will not start. No spark, but has fuel pressure.

Hello,

The oil sending unit can be the cause of the engine not starting because if the computer does not see oil pressure it will cut the engine off to avoid damage.

Can you recheck the connector or try the old oil pressure sensor?

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Checked the connection to the oil pressure unit and tried installing the old one started up, I think I got a bad sender.

I replaced the spark plugs and while doing so I disconnected the negative to fuse box under hood. And now the car will not crank. The vehicle is equipped with an anti theft device. I am unsure if it is the issue. I put the key in the ignition and everything lights up like it is suppose to (ac,radio, and all dash lights). but the car does not crank or turn over. Please help

Hello,

You should hear the fuel pump kick on if you turn the key to the opposition without racking the engine over. The fuel pump is in the tank. Also this guide can help if the security light is flashing to reset the security system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

If the light is not flashing check out this guide becasue it sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down these guides and report back.

the fuel pump went out cost me $230.00 for the new pump, it runs again.

Car quit running on me on the road a couple of days ago. Changed the fuel pump and the crankshaft sensor and nothing has changed.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Did you try scanning the computer to see if there are trouble codes stored which may indicate the problem? Here is a quick video:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Next, you should check to see if the engine is actually getting spark and fuel to the engine. Here are links that show how:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

If you find you are getting spark and fuel, then try this. See if the engine will start for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then it is fuel related. If it does not start, then it is not getting spark or there is internal issues.

If it does start, follow this link to see if the injectors are getting power.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

____________________________

The attached picture shows the manufacturer's specs for fuel pressure.

Here is an additional link that discusses cranks but no start conditions:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

See if there is anything there that helps.

Do these things and let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

Where do I start checking? Where are the fuses located? I do not have an owners manual. It was running fine parked it went for and errand and zip cranks but will not start. Checked fuses under hood cannot find fuse box.

Hello,

It sounds like you have a crankshaft angle sensor that has gone bad which will make the engine not run and it will not show any trouble codes. Here are two guides and will help and the location of the crankshaft position sensor for your car in the diagrams below. I would also check the fuel pump relay location below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

I do not know what engine you have so I gave all options below. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

The car (RT model) was working fine. Drove it all day. I got home and went inside to grab something. I went to remote start it and it kicks over but sounds bad and turns off within a few seconds.

I tried starting it quite a few times until the battery went dead. I jumped it to another vehicle. The battery holds at 13 volts and when cranking holds well. (I have a super chip tuner that I can read the voltage on).


The car clearly has enough voltage to turn over and run but it just stalls out and never really fully starts. The engine shakes and putts and just cuts off. I will include a video of what it does.

Can this be a relay or something? All the lights in the dash work. No check engine light at all. I read the codes and there are no codes to speak of.

Hello, I am Danny.

Have you tested the fuel pressure? I have attached a link on how to steps. If you do not have one most auto part stores (Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, Autozone) have a free tool loaner program. Your car should have 58 P.S.I. plus or minus 5 according to the specifications. Hope this helps and feel free to ask any other questions if needed.Thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

So when i got the car i was told it had overheating problems. Replaced the radiator, thermostat, radiator fan sensor, and bypassed the heating core. The car would drive longer and longer since i have made those repairs. Then out the blue i got a throttle bottle indicator on my dash and a couple of weeks later the car wouldn't turn back over. Started making this horrible screeching noise like a belt getting sawed. Cleaned the throttle. Put a new starter in and fully charged my battery. Replaced the ignition relay and any fuse i didn't have or might have been damaged. I even replaced the spark plugs. Car still wont turn over. All of the lights and radio are still working but i really don't know what to do at this point. The one mechanic i took the car to said that my timing belt was bad. But after a lot of hours of reading articles and watching videos. I didn't think that was the problem. Please if anyone can help or tell me what i should do. I also replaced the battery terminals.

Does the starter engage and turn the engine? If it does, have you checked for spark and fuel to the engine? Also, if the starter is working, can you record the engine when it is engaged so I can hear it? There could be a timing issue.

As far as spark and fuel, here are a couple links to help you check them:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

If the starter doesn't engage, follow this link and let me know the results:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Let me know.

Joe

Dealership said my transmission pump was bad, so I replaced pump. Now car wont start. It ran fine before changing pump. Had the car jacked up pretty high on one side and battery disconnected for couple weeks. Any idea what the problem could be? Also, no codes are coming up.

try resetting security system battery was disconnected so it set security. See link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Tried all reset security options you suggested, still not starting. I do not think it was bad, but replaced crank sensor located on nag 1 transmission bell. Still not starting.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge then auto parts rent it. See link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Hey Gary,

It sounds like you left one of the system grounds off up a the bellhousing. Can you recheck the grounds and get back to us please?

Sometimes eletronics can go out by just sitting there as well such as a fuel pump or a crankshaft angle sensor.

Here are a couple of guides to help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system.

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken

Checked fuel pump,it's good. Not showing any codes, but battery was disconnected for awhile and it hasn't started since. Checked ground on transmission, that's good. There is just the one ground there, right? Another thing, should the engine have power going to it even when key is off? The fuel injectors and ignition coils still light up even though key is off. Also I put a new cam position sensor on it. I can't figure it out!

no when key is off no power should go to engine. check coil/s as maybe they got burnt up from power being on all the time also check ignition switchor front ignition module which a mechanic would need to scan for codes for. also check asd relay and fuse 11in pdc

Car has been at dealership now 2 weeks and replaced PCM all fixed.

I swapped out a 2007 3.5 liter motor from my charger, and installed a 3.5 from a 2005 Chrysler 300.the swap went well. my only problem now is getting injectors to work.fuel pump primes and runs while cranking.pulled a cam sensor code then soon after crank sensor code. tonight I replaced both sensors and finally got it want to start,but only starts with ether.i checked all ground straps wiring all looked good.i stayed with my original harness just switched out the sensors.i guess my next to do is invest in noid lights and or the adapter to check fuel pressure as I see no other way to check injectors pulse.any input I can appreciate.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Yep. You're on the right track. I would check with noid light to see if your getting injector pulse while cranking as well as fuel pressure. If you don't have access to those testers most auto parts store have a tool loaner program and can possibly rent you one.With you saying it starts with ether that is more towards the not getting fuel issue. Your fuel pressure should be at 53-63 p.s.i. Let me know if you have any other questions on this issue.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros

Thank you 2CarPros.com for your speedy response in regards to my last post.I went ahead and replaced both cam and crank sensors (new ones).I'm getting fuel now ,and spark .Only it wants to start it seems in only one spot.Almost acts as if it's 180 degrees out on timing.distributor less is this possible?I figure I'm losing ref. Signal somewhere along the line,and then out of nowhere the # 15 fuse under hood starts to acting up intermittently blowing the fuse.Tracked that down to a little diode type looking part bolted on back of passenger side cylinder head.it has like one wire terminal and grounded?
So I decide to check compression while I had access, but then I couldn't find my gauge.I had no choice at time but go Old School and had my wife bring out Bounty paper towels.I admit and don't recommend this procedure to test compression but my choices were limited and the little lady with paper towels was not taking kindly to my after hours project so to speak.I can say compression was good enough to shoot out paper towel about eight feet or so high.If nothing else I would think it was enough to make it run?if timing belt was jumped it would affect compression ?I'm not too eager to pull front cover on this thing,but I see no other way of checking the timing on this 3.5 Dodge.If any body has any input on this feel free to respond thank you.
P.S. I'm new to this post my first actually,And I have to say that taking time out to listen to our car problems and help out with out charging an arm or leg Is Priceless to Professional or Shade Tree Mechanics alike ,we never stop learning and as we grow older we do forget some things. And this site is really a plus. As my wife reminds me everyday goes by that I should have just spent the $1,800.00 go figure.

Hello again.

The engine on your car uses a fixed ignition timing system. Basic ignition timing is not adjustable. All spark advance is determined by your cars PCM (power-train control module). Is there a chance you can use you cell phone to take a picture of this diode or wire you speak of and upload here? That might help me understand what you're speaking of.Hope this all helps and we'll figure this out.thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

every other thing is good but just coil is sparking for the to start. i change the crankshaft sensor.if on ignition there is currant on coil but not spark to start?

It sounds like the TIPM is bad. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds? Here is how to change out the TIPM it is easy because it self initializes.