After replacing the Clock Spring, the airbag light does not turn off?

Were the wheels straight when the new clock spring was installed? If the steering wheel was one or more revolutions off-center, the clock spring can't rotate enough to accommodate that. Depending on which way it was off, turning fully one way will tear the ribbon cable off on one end, or it will unwind too far, then fold over on itself. That second way can occur multiple times before the cable finally breaks.

Why did you replace the clock spring? If the vehicle was in a crash, it's supposed to be replaced due to the air bag connector being melted by the burning rocket fuel. Some of those connectors seat with some difficulty. If it isn't in all the way, that will be detected by the computer. If you don't see the cause of the warning light by this point, have the diagnostic fault code read and recorded. With that number, I can look up the definition for you, then we'll figure out where to go next.

You might ask at an auto parts store first to have the code read. Many of the simple code readers can access Air Bag and Anti-lock Brake Computers now, otherwise you'll need to visit a mechanic with a full scanner. Let me know what you find.

I don't have a code reader, and it will cost a lot to get that done. There was a reset procedure on YouTube that I tried, and it did change how it blinks. Now it comes on for one long light up and then flashes 2 short (on/off). How do I make it stay off?

Hello Larry,

My brother Larry was born in 1960 as well. If the airbag light was on and you replaced the clock spring or spiral wire, then the codes will need to be cleared to get the light to stay off. You might want to try a hard system reboot by following this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/step-by-step-guide-performing-a-hard-system-reboot-for-your-vehicles-electronics-systems

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

You're going to have to answer some questions or put some effort into solving this. If there is a defect, that has to be identified, then solved, to make the warning light turn off. There is nothing to "reset" that will make a mechanical problem go away.

A common way to erase fault codes is to remove the negative battery cable for a minute or two. There's two things, though, to be aware of. First, on quite a few models, disconnecting the battery will cause multiple computers to lock up. That requires a trip on the tow truck to the dealer to have them unlock those computers. It's safer to avoid that, if possible. The second concern is on many models, air bag codes don't erase by disconnecting the battery. I have a suspicion that is because the codes need to remain in memory when law enforcement sends the computer in to have crash data read.

The only sure-fire way to erase codes is with a scanner, and since it is connected to the vehicle, it will read the codes too. That is always the starting point because those codes tell you the circuit that needs further diagnosis. Fault codes may reference a part or a sensor, but they never say to replace it or that it is bad. You're just as likely to find a wiring or connector terminal problem.

There's four long lists of diagnostic fault codes. Air Bag codes start with the letter "C" for "chassis" codes, or "B" for "body" codes. That's followed by four digits, then, when you look up the definition for a code, often you have to look in one of multiple computers to get to the right diagnostic chart.

You didn't tell me why the clock spring needed to be replaced, or whether the warning light was on before you replaced it. You didn't tell me if the wheels were straight ahead or turned to one side.

As for the cost that's too high, when someone at an auto parts store reads codes for you, they do that at no charge. I've never read that anyone was charged for the service, although it is illegal now for them to do that in California. If that applies to you, look for a nearby community college with an Automotive program. They often take in vehicles from the public to provide real-world learning experiences.

To complicate this even more, for any fault code to set, there is always a long list of conditions that must be met, and some of those conditions can include certain other codes can't already be set. Sometimes two or more things must be compared to know everything is working properly. If a code is set for one circuit, for example, the computer knows it can't rely on that circuit for comparison to another, so some of those self tests are suspended. Once the first defect is repaired, all the self tests resume, and that is when a second problem might first be detected. What that means to the mechanic and the car owner is they only knew about the first problem, had that fixed, then the warning light turns right back on when the next problem gets detected. This is more common with anti-lock brakes, but it bares mentioning in case this occurs with your vehicle. To say that a different way, don't panic if you get a fault code, solve the problem that caused that code, then the warning light turns on again. Chances of that are small, but it means we have to start over by reading codes again.

Once you know the exact code number, let me know and I'll find the definition, then we'll figure out where to go next.