Leaking antifreeze?

Hi:
Under the water pump there is a (about 1/4") weep hole. Check to see if there is evidence of a leak. If there is, the water pump needs replaced. As far as directions, this is an involved process. I can try to explain it, but I recommend getting a repair manual that has step by step instructions and pictures to identify parts.

This guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant


Please run down this guide and report back.

I have been noticing that after I have driven my minivan and parked it, when I come out a day or two later antifreeze has leaked out, but not from the radiator. It is leaking from someplace behind the passenger side front tire. And now it is overheating, but not all the way, only when I am at a light, after I move the vehicle the needle returns to the halfway mark. What could be the cause of this?

Of course it will overheat when it gets low on coolant. You need to stop driving it first, and then you have to pressure test the cooling system to pinpoint the leak and repair it.

Is it common for the water pump to fail on this model town and country? It was suggested by a former Chrysler repair person that it does and leaks out the weephole. Can I do this myself?

Hi:

I am not aware of this being a common problem. In fact most that I've replaced have had around 80K to 90K on them. If you are getting an aftermarket pump, you may want to select a different brand or purchase one from the dealer. It may be a little more, but it should last longer.

As far as doing it yourself, it is an involved process and I'm not sure what your abilities are.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Joe

3.8L V6. Coolant is leaking from the overflow valve at the top of the recovery tank. I've replaced the radiator cap to no avail. There don't appear to be any leaks coming from the upper radiator hose or the line running from the recovery tank to the radiator. Coolant is not overfilled in the recovery tank, and it needs to be topped off every few days. The leak is worse when the tank is more full. Could this be a thermostat problem?

no it may be just to full drive for a week and see what happens, if low then have pressure checked for internal leak

Frequently replacing coolant in 2003 Chrysler Town and Country when heater stops blowing hot air, but there are no visible signs of a leak on ground. Where would the leak likely be located?

Possible leaking head gasket. You can add a bottle of dye to the coolant, then look at the tail pipe with a black light. The dye will show up bright yellow after driving a few miles.

Thank you. I was afraid somebody was going to say that. I am going to take it in and have it looked at, but can you give me a ballpark for what that job might cost? It doesn't sound cheap.

A typical head gasket job could run $500.00 to $700.00. Your engine is not an "interference" engine. Those engines have valves and pistons that occupy the same space but at different times, . . . as long as the timing belt is installed correctly. Any problem with the belt breaking or jumping a few teeth, or incorrect installation after replacing head gaskets results in the need for a valve job which will add a whole bunch to the repair bill. Your engine uses a chain instead of a belt and it's not an interference engine.

caradiodoc

Hi, I have a coolant leak from faulty freeze plug on engine block. Job will cost $600.00 I cannot pay this amount. In the summer I refilled car with water but in the winter here in New Jersey that is no longer an option. I put in a gallon every week. What are my options if I do not want to put $600.00 into this car?

Well depending on the size and location, this could be an option.

And yes, if this helps, you are going to need to use anti-freeze again.

Look behind door # 1!

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/PartSearchCmd?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&pageId=partTypeList&suggestion=&actionSrc=Form&langId=-1&vehicleIdSearch=-1&vehicle_1060326=2015+%3A+Cadillac+%3A+CTS+Performance+%3A+3.6L+217CI+V6+FI+VIN%3A+3-LFX-Flex&searchTerm=freeze+plug+-+rubber&searchedFrom=header

Keep us posted!

The Medic

I don't understand what option? In the winter I cannot refill with just water? and adding antifreeze every week will be expensive so what can I do? what do you mean look behind door #1

Hi ORENANNA,

It sounds a little expensive for just a freeze plug. Do you no where it is located, maybe the shop just doesn't want to do it. You need the engine to hold coolant so I would get a second opinion, most shops wont charge you to just look at it.

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken

there is no option like ken says get a second opinion if it's that much money it must be in a fairly inaccessible place

Yes its near or on the engine block. They have to remove the transmission to get to it

I have antifreeze leaking on my rear right passenger sliding door. I just changed my heater core due to leakage inside in front passenger side. so I am confused on the back. help?

that is why i'ts 600 dollars check with a trans shop see if they will do it cheaper.

if it has a heater core in back that may be leaking as well or the lines going to it. check those.

In fact it does have a rear heater core.

Hi HMAC300. Excuse me for butting in, . . . again. This was a real common problem with a pretty easy fix. The rear heater hoses have plastic quick-connect fittings at the rear heater core. Those fittings have a rubber o-ring that shrinks and leaks in cold weather. Manufacturers always insist that warranty repairs be made with their parts. The engineers came up with a pair of superseded part numbers for this repair. Those had TWO o-rings in each fitting that shrunk and leaked in cold weather!

When the van is out of warranty, the less-expensive and permanent fix is to cut off the metal crimped bands on the front of the hoses right behind the cross member, cut those hoses off, then install two new rubber hoses from bulk stock. I can't remember the diameter or if both hoses were the same. The pipes in front and the nipples for the heater core are barbed, so just slide the new hoses on and use regular hose clamps. If you leave the original hoses in place, you can use tie straps to hold the new hoses to those old ones.

If you're made of money, you can install a pair of 3"-long hoses to the heater core, then a pair of 90 degree elbows from the hardware store's plumbing department. Attach the new hoses to those elbows. For the rest of us, just watch that there are no kinks in the new hoses. They need to make some rather tight bends right under the heater core.

It can take weeks of driving to get the rear heater core to burp the air out and start the coolant circulating. What I did instead was to build pressure in the cooling system, either with a pressure tester or by running the engine, use a hose pinch-off pliers to pinch one of the new hoses, then loosen the clamp on that hose at the heater core. Thanks to the pressure, the coolant was forced to flow into the heater core, and through to the loosened clamp. Any air trapped in there yet will work its way out in short order.

antifreeze is pouring out as fast as i pour it in! it is coming from the passenger side, about center, higher up but only visible from below. looks like a hose or right where a hose connects to something? little to dark to see clearly. i know enough just to be dangerous but cant afford to take it in somewhere. any ideas? or do you know where i can find free pics of the cooling system so i can figure it out? thanks!

if you have rear heat, the lines that run to the rear are common for rotting out and leaking. it is a very involved job to replace the line set as they come as a set.

the other possibility is the water pump. it could have a bad seal and leaking from the weep hole.

get a shop to verify it for you and give you a bid.

Roy

i literally don't have the $ for a shop. do you know of a website that has free pics so i can try to figure it out? thanks

i looked all around for any better pictures for you but all are generic and vague.

like I said, it is involved as the lines are long and twisty and require a lot of removal to get them out and the new ones in.

wish i could be more help but this is it. I will defer to my partners to see if there is any better pictures.

maybe you can get someone to help you familiar with cars. also, go to autozone and let them show you a picture of the lines so you can see what i mean

Roy

its prolly the water pump. it is sorta a job for someone that is not truely familiar with it. i would rather go to napa than autozone i only have good luck there with oil. if it does turn out to be water pump spend the lil extra cash at napa or you will be doing it again soon. (sorry autozone)

you need the leak verified, no matter what. We all are guessing here based on experience.

Roy

yes your right... get a mirror make sure everything is dry and start the van and look where it is coming from...be careful of the belt...

good luck

Roy

Is it safe and workable to splice and tape multiple (10+) wires in the wiring harness that are corroded or apart due to an antifreeze leak? Also, could this problem ( faulty electrical wires in wiring harness) be correctly located and diagnosed with a computer check? Mechanic replaced the transmission first and then found the electrical problem. Thank you.

Everyone gets fooled at one time or another, expensive mistake! The codes would have refered to circuits being high or low voltage. Connectors are the first check!

I have a 98 Chrysler Town And Country with 154000 miles, I noticed it leaking a couple days ago but after that one time didnt see it leak no more till today it overheated and when I Checked the water there was none in there so I added water but noticed it was leaking out and making a pissssing noise and looked as though steam or something was comming out too. But it looked like it was coming from under the van it looked to be about under where the front seats are but under the car so I dont know what needs to be fixed?

does it ahve rear heat? if so they it might be the rear heater lines that run to the right rear of the car for the heater core. those lines are famous for rusting out.

I took it to the shop today to see what was wrong and that is exactly what it was the rear heater lines... My friend said they could clip and crimp the lines if I dont need the rear heat is that true? Is that safe? Thank you...