Air conditioner not working

This sounds like a simple overcharged system lets check the high side reading by using this guide. Should be no more than 275 psi on the high side.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

Sounds like the high side cutout switch. On high side line there is a switch that when the high pressure gets too high it cuts off the compressor to avoid damage. So the switch could be bad giving you the code but I think there maybe another problem. You are loosing AC in the hot part of day so what is happening is cooling fans are not working or a restriction to air flow across the condenser or an inefficient radiator. The freon is retaining to much heat and the high goes up switch does it"s job shuts off comp.

Hope this helps

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

sounds like a good idea to test the high and low switch now here is the issue with that there is only one switch that i can see on my system it is on the high side inches from the condensor and it has 3 wires and is also not shown in the haynes repair manual wiring diagrams

Were you able to figure out what was causing your ac problem? Mine had too much Freon in it.

found out that the problem was the control panel inside the car replaced it with a new one problem went away. Dealer item btw 130.00 bucks too it sure beat the items the repair shop told me i needed they said it was junk in my system from a failing compressor so i would need the compressor, expansion valve, dryer receiver, and a system flush 650 is what he said i like the 130 better hope this helps you

Oh great thank you so much! I will call the dealer on Monday!

Thanks to blanket00. AC was on sometimes, then blew hot air. I bought a used control panel on EBay and now the AC works great!

Hi,

I just bought a used Sebring, and soon discovered that the A/C only blows cold some of the time. On some trips it runs cold, then when I stop the car and get back in (like when I am running errands), it blows hot. It is always one or the other, never both on the same trip. Dealer did EVAC recharge and changed a switch (I don't know which one), neither of which solved the problem. I am going to take it back in, but would like some direction first. I live in the dessert, and it is awful w/out A/C. Thanks for any help you can give!

hi charmedlife,
No A/C in the desert ouch!
Somethings to have checked
radiator operation and condenser blockage ie.debris
cooling fan operation are they on when you have a warm air experience?
have high side pressure checked so it is within limits
also high side cut out switch maybe defective
weak AC clutch can disengage when it gets to hot.
The dealer my not be your best bet. Look for an independent shop that specialises inAc repair and is A.S.E. certified. Hope you get this resolved
Thank you for donation

the ac gets cold as long as the car is sitting still but as soon as u give it gas the ac blows hot air also the comp will stop and then start when you rev the motor up also it the car is sitting at idle it gets cold but as soon as you take off it gets hot then if you stop it will start to cool til you take off again. i have drained the freon out and refilled it and still does the same thing need help.

this may be a blend door problem or module problem. try pulling fuse 11 inside car with key on for 60 seconds that may reset it. if it continues to have the problem have it scanned as it may be a hvac control module or body module problem. a local pro will have to do this. you might also try checking ground near center of dash for hvac control.

Air Conditioning problem
2002 Chrysler Sebring Automatic 99000 miles

My air conditioner blows cool for only a few seconds and then blows warm air for a minute or so then repeats the same cycle. When it blows cold it is very cold, but it doesn�t last. Any suggestions? Also, I was told something about going out on high pressure and I am clueless to what that means. I can't say I trust the source. Just curious if anyone has had a similar problem and how it was solved.

Could be freezing up due to air and moisture forming ice to block off the orifice tube, get it vacuum out and see what happens

Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 104,000 miles.

I have the Limited Convertible model. Recently I noticed the A/C was not providing any cold air.

I went to my local auto parts store and picked up an air conditioning recharge kit, which has the bottle of refrigerant and a gauge. When I hooked it up and followed the instructions, I found that the needle on the gauge was in the "danger" area really high pressure on the low pressure side of the A/C system. So obviously it was not lacking the refrigerant.

I suspect that maybe the clutch on the compressor is not engaging. I am not sure how to troubleshoot this though.

I did check the relays and they are all fine.

What would be the next step? I want to first figure out whether it is the actual air conditioning system or an electrical problem that is causing it not to kick on.

Do you have the electrical knowledge and equipment to troubleshoot an electrical circuit by reading a wiring diagram if you had one?

Yes. I do. I just do not have the wiring diagram so I have no idea where what goes where.

I did some additional investigating today. I found the wire that connects to the compressor clutch and I assume that this is supposed to activate it. When I connect a DMM to it and read the voltage from the wire to the ground, it shows zero. When I turn on the air conditioning, it also shows zero. I would assume it is supposed to be +12 when the AC is on. So I may be narrowing the problem.

I do not want to do anything without knowing that it is not going to cause damage, but I was thinking that perhaps I could figure out if the compressor and clutch are okay by just hooking up a test lead to the plug on the compressor and connecting it directly to +12 volts (with a fuse just in case) and if it causes the compressor to engage and the AC system to kick on, then I will know the problem is not with the compressor.

Is this a good/safe idea?

Yes, that is fine for checking the compressor. You may find this circuit is a bit more complicated than you may be expecting. This system has a three wire pressure sensor that feeds a varying voltage back to the PCM so it can make decisions on the compressor and cooling fan operation.

Alright. I connected the A/C clutch control to +12 and it seems to have engaged the compressor. The compressor seemed to kick on, and the pressure on the low pressure side of the system went down, although it still stayed pretty damn high. It went from about 110 psi to 80 psi, which is still in the red area of the gauge I have. (which I admit is not the best piece of equipment, it came with a recharge kit)

Also, I feel no cold air coming out of the vents.

So now I am starting to think maybe there is a blockage? Unless there is a valve or something that is not opening.

Is it possible that the reason the compressor will not engage is that the pressure sensor is sensing that something is blocked or something and that is not allowing it to come on?

Someone told me I should try letting most the refrigerant out of the system and then re-charging it. That does not really seem like such a great idea, but I am not sure. Anyway, it is not the ozone depleting type, so I guess I do not have to feel bad about that if I do.

If you want my honest opinion, you should not be touching this car at all. Air conditioning diagnosis is a lot harder than everyone thinks and a lot of damage can be done to the system very easily. You do not have the equipment needed to do this. You absolutely cannot diagnose this system with that toy gauge. You need a set of professional gauges that read both high and low side to even get started and then you will need a recovery and recharge station. Even if you had all this, you do not have the basic understanding to recognize a serious problem and that can be dangerous.

My Air Condition randomly shut off especially on trips over 45min. Some time just shutting off the engine is enough to get the air condition to work other times it need to cool off. Recently had it service and now it works even worst the air comes out randomly cold to cool and some times even a little warm and I am still having the random shut off issues. Before the service the air always came out freezing when it was working. Mechanic said he check system and put a 1lb and a 1/2 or coolant.
When it shut off the interior air condition light will begin to blink. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Thanks

4 things come to mind.

1. AC compressor relay
2. AC refrigerant temperature switch
3. Dual pressure switch
4. Compressor ECU pin voltage.

I am sure you are right. I have experience on the electrical side of things, and I was really hoping it would turn out to be a problem with the control interface or a relay somewhere. If it were that, I think I could fix it, but it looks now like it is likely with the A/C system itself.

I am severely underemployed at the moment, so I am not sure that seeing a pro on this will be an option. I may have to wait until spring.

At the moment, if I cannot fix it, it is not getting fixed.

Sorry, that is just the long and short of the economic situation I find myself in.

If you really understand the electrical, you should at least be able to determine what is preventing it from engaging. I gave you all the diagrams that you need.
Just do not mess with the gas system without help and do not go applying power to something unless you really know what your doing. Those relays are controlled by grounding quad drivers in the PCM and if you mistakenly pump power into them, you will be buying a PCM.

The problem is that the compressor relay is not getting any power on the common pin. When I turn on the air conditioning, the relay coil is energized and the relay closes (as it should). The no pin connects to the common pin.

The common pin (point 64 in the second diagram) is out. I assume it should be at +12, but it is not.

The obvious problem would be that the fuse labeled 12 is blown. However, as far as I can tell, all the fuses in the PDC are good, unless there is a fuse hidden somewhere..

Well darn! I would have not thought to look at that fuse because it is labeled as being for the radiator fan, I guess it is for both. On closes inspection, the fuse is fine, but when I removed it, the contact points had some corrosion on them.

A quick brush-up with some contact cleaner and reseat the fuse and the air conditioning now kicks on and I can ride cool.

Thanks a million! I thought it was an electrical problem. I did not expect it to be such a simple one.

high pressure keeps climbing low side
clutch wont engage
jumped term 30+87 on a/c relay
clutch engaged blowing cold air
high side gauge starts to climb
and fluctuate
low side starts climbing also
last compressor did same
till it safety high pressure blow
put on another after evacuating
vaccumed 3/4 hr
same problems

Glad to hear you got it resolved. Feedback is appreciated.

make sure the cooling fans operates.

fluctuating high side usually indicates bad reed valves in the compressor.

was the compressor new or used?? did you change the dryer?? did you change the H valve??

Roy

hi roy
it was a used a/c comp i installed
and i did not change dryer
and valve
the fans did come on when
i bypassed a/c relay
i,ll change those 2 parts with
new ones
and get back too you
thx roy

good luck. make sure you install the exact amount of freon

Roy

The drivers side gets water under the mats in the front and back. We thought it might be from the rain or washing the car. Have tried running water on the car to check for leaks from windows and sun roof but nothing. What seems to happen is when you run the air for awhile it starts to get damp under the mats and if not paying attention to it you can get a puddle, which has happened. Does anyone have a idea what might be plugged up, where to look or what else we might try? All information would be appreciated.

Check your AC drain. It may be plugged up. It should be behind and under the dash. Check from under the car. You should see a small drain tube.

My a/c works fine and blows nice cold air - MOST of the time. But suddenly it will begin blowing warm air. It will do that for awhile then go back to cold air. Freon is fine. Any ideas?

I would check the blend door motor. If this has Automatic A/C then I would also look at the climite control system temp sensor and such.

Heater does not blow hot air

Does the engine reach normal operating temp? Are the heater hoses hot?

Yes, the vehicle reaches normal operating temp. But it blows out luke warm air.

Are the heater hoses hot? One possibility is a heater core restriction.