Engine light and codes

We would need the "P" codes to help you out.
This is how its done
cycle the key on off three times ending with the key on
read p0000 code in the odometer area
or try a visit to your local part or repair shop they can supply you the code
most likely free
let me know
good luck

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

June 22,2009 i took my car in because check engine light was on.The chrysler dealer tested it for $98-00 &recommended replacement of leak detection pump.
at a price of $588-00, if i get fixed within 3 months the $98-00 that I payed for test would apply for total of $490-00. On july 9,2009 the check engiine light went out and is still fuctioning properly. Someone told me although they are not sure that ounce the light has been on it remains in the computer and could keep the car from being smoged as I live in calif. The light has been out for a month now and was not cleared by dealer before the light went out because I told the dealer I would get it fixed later when I get more money. Hope you can explain if I need to get cleared from computer as would sav me lots of money.

if the light is out and has stayed out you should be fine. After the engine has been run through cycles, it shouldn't show any codes if the problem is gone. If you are worried about it, take it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer and reset it. Most of them will do it for free.

I got a answer to my question from Mc cuune chrysler dealer locally before you sent your answer, but thanks for the help,

I'm glad you got it taken care of. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

My '04 Cruiser has been cruising right along since I purchased it in July '07. I got in one day and when I started it the engine began bucking and rolling. After awhile the "Check Engine Light" came on and would not reset. I took it in for service and I was informed the "code" stated cylinder #4 misfire. I was talked into a "major" tune up since I was above 30,000 miles. Won't tell you the cost. Anyway after plugs, wires, throttle plate and air intake cleaning, etc. I received my car and it worked fine - for 40 miles. While cruising at about 60 mph the "Check Engine Light" popped on and approximately 1 minute later the engine gbegan running rough. I could accelerate slowly and get to about 45 mph. Back to the shop where I was told the battery was on its last leg and it needed a new battery. After another $125.00 I got the car back. This time I was able to travel about 150 miles when - while cruising at about 45 mph the "Check Engine Light" popped on and after about a minute it began running rough. I could accelerate slowly to about 45 mph to get it home. Two days later I got in and started the car and the light reset and the car ran fine for 2 1/2 days (about 150 miles). This time I was traveling about 60 mph when the "Check Engine LIght" popped on and after about a minute it began running rough. I could run with an occasional bout of missing. Got to work and left early to stay out of traffic and get it home. While running on the interstate it would start "missing" at high speed and i would have to coast for a few seconds then continue. Eventually I had to get off the interstate and use the back roads because of the inconsistent acceleration. Finally got it home and that is where I am now. I am getting it ready to take it back to the shop but I am afraid of what I'm goinf to hear next as the problem. I found a couple of forums that talked about this problem. The only "fixes" major tune-up (done), new plugs/cables (done) replace PCM. This last one was mentioned as a potential but one the company won't suggest because they have to replace it under warranty but it makes sense. The only other thing I noticed was the alternator output sometimes is low (using a lighter plug-in meter). Something is causing the Check Engine LIght to go on before the ignition problems begin in earnest. I guess that's about it - any insight/help/assistance is deeply appreciated. I would like to better prepared when I go back to the dealer.

Thank You!!!!!

Hi:
It could be many things, but a tune up at 30K wouldn't have been one of them. Rather than going to the dealer, take the car to anationally recognized parts store and have the scan the computer. They will do it for free, and hopefully identify the problem. If the light is coming on, there is a trouble code being set.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Do these solutions apply if the engine light comes on and the car sputters. The car has been sputtering off and on, but today the engine light came on briefly and went off as well.

If the light was on, I would recommend having it scanned to determine why it came on. Most parts stores will do it for free.

Let me know what you find.

On June 22, 2009 I took my 2004 pt cruiser in to the dealer with only 31,000 miles on it to be checked because the check engine light had come on while driving. they charge me $98.oo dollars & recommend replace leak detecton pump for $588-00. the amount would be $490-00 because of the $98-00 ipayed for test if done within 3 months. I didn"t have the money then so I told them I would bring car back later. On Juily 9, 2009 the light went out and is working properly & is still ok after more than a month, however, someone told me that once light comes on it remains in computer and may cause it to fail smog,is this true &what should be done if it is? I don"t want to spend that much money if i don"t have to.The dealer had not cleared the light after the test. My phone: 619-265-2881 thanks.

Hello and thanks for the donation!

If the engine lamp is still illuminated, you can have almost any local auto part store to delete the stored codes. If the lamp is off then there are no stored codes at that time. If the code is deleted then the engine lamp illuminates again later, you will have to get the proper repair made. If the lamp stays off, the problem must have been intermittent and no further action is required.

Check engine light came on and car does a chugging thing until I get up to 30+ mph...tried putting fuel injector cleaner in, light went out for couple days, then back on. Code reader says misfire cylinder 2...is this an easy fix?

You have to know what the fix is before you will know if it's easy. At the mileage you listed it's due for spark plugs. I'd start with that before we go looking for expensive stuff.

My 2004 PT Cruiser check engine light came on . It then went out after a week. Now it came back on again. I was told by a mechanic that the engine is misfiring. I am trying to
change the spark plugs and wires. I was able to remove the (5) bolts holding down the intake manifold cover but could not proceed further. What do I need to remove in order to get free access to the plugs?

Here are the directions for removing the intake. Chances are you forgot to remove something. 1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: Negative battery cable Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor and air hose Engine cover Throttle and cruise control cables from the throttle lever bracket Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor Idle Air Control (IAC) motor electrical connector Throttle Position (TPS) sensor wiring connector Proportional purge hoses Brake booster vacuum hose Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose from the intake manifold Throttle body support bracket bolt Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube from the upper intake manifold Upper intake manifold 3. Clean the mating surfaces. Fig. Remove the EGR tube from the upper intake manifold

Let me know if this helps. Joe

why check engine light comes on and off one day is on the other day is off

thank you

The Engine Computer detected an intermittent problem, and since it's related to something that could adversely affect emissions, it turned on the Check Engine light. It also set a diagnostic fault code to indicate the circuit that needs further diagnosis or the unacceptable operating condition. Since this is a relatively low-level problem, the light goes off when the problem is not occurring, but that doesn't mean it's okay to ignore it. Minor problems can turn into big ones sometimes if they aren't corrected.

Chrysler makes reading fault codes yourself much easier than any other manufacturer. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine, leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers show up in the odometer display. Reply back with those numbers and I'll figure out the likely causes.

ok the coded are po882 and po700

Code 700 just means there are codes in the Transmission section of the PCM.

This is from Mitchell ProDemand:

P0882-TCM POWER INPUT LOW

Set Condition:

This DTC is set when there is less than 3.0 volts present at the transmission control output circuits located in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) when the Transmission Control System request the power up of those circuits. Note: Due to the integration of the Transmission Control Module and the Powertrain Control Module, both systems have their own power and ground circuits. .

When Monitored:

When the ignition is turned from "OFF" position to "RUN" position and/or the ignition is turned from "START" position to "RUN" position.

Possible Causes:

RELATED TIPM DTCS

TRANSMISSION CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND
TRANSMISSION CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE

I have a code p0882. I checked the wiring diagram and the procedure to resolve the problem. The manual says to check the T15 circuit for open or shorted to ground. The circuit is not shorted or open so now I have two more option either the TIPM or the computer is bad how can I verify it?

I have an '05 PT Cruiser Limited. Around 3 months ago, I had problems with the check engine light, got a tune up, and the car was fine. Last week, my check engine light came on again and it was saying that my 3rd cylinder was misfiring. I took it to a mechanic and he put on brand new spark plugs, wires, and coil packs. The car has not been running rough. Every once in a while, the car putters (or shakes a little bit), but only when the car is in idle.

I love this site :-)

Scan the computer for code/s and comeback with it if any present.

It's much more likely there is an intermittent break in the wire, most commonly a stretched or corroded terminal in a connector. All it takes is a momentary break for the Engine Computer to detect it, like when bouncing over a pothole, or from the engine rocking when shifting into reverse.

The way a transmission specialist would approach this is to first erase the code, then go on a test-drive with a scanner so he can watch what happens and figure out if there is anything he can do to make the problem act up. If the code comes back right away, that is when there is a hard defect that you can find with an ohm meter or voltmeter.

It is saying that there is a misfire in cylinder 3

yes the code come back after i drive the car for like a mile and the car goes to limp mode after that i will shift normally

Check no.3 cyl -sparkplug, compression and injector

Once in limp mode, it should stay there until you turn the ignition switch off and restart the engine. Is that what you mean? If it shifts properly without having to restart the engine, unless this is something new I haven't heard about, it never went into limp mode.

I have brand new wires, plugs, and coil pack. In terms of the injector, should I take it to a mechanic, or try fuel eject cleaner?

sometimes it shifts normal after i turn the engine off and back up on .but sometimes it stays in limp mode even after i turn the engine off . the check light stays on even it shifts back to normal

Try fuel injection cleaner and see what happens-don't work take it in and have it further checked-

so what i understand there is like a relay(electronic one) in the Tipm responsible to send voltage to the transmission solenoid pack
today i checked the control side voltage going in the Tipm 13.5 volt and the load side coming out from the Tipm 14.5 volt.. i checked those voltages at the
Tipm .are these voltages in specs?

You're in an area now that I've never worked on or learned about. My best recommendation is to get a copy of Chrysler's service manual. They do a real good job of explaining how circuits are supposed to work.

i forgot to tell you the car sometimes does not start when i turn the key nothing happens not clicking sound nothing and a red dot on the dash board blinks. the car starts after the second try

Sorry; I don't have an answer for that.