1989 Chrysler New Yorker runs rough when warm

The tps and map sensor use the same ref voltage circuit. Did you check ref voltage?

The cts has a separate ref voltage circuit. As the engine warms up, that voltage drops. If it stays high on a hot engine, it can cause problems.

The tps--map--cts--02 sensor, use the same ground circuit. A problem on the ground circuit, could cause a problem on all those sensors.

Please Allow me to clarify. "My 1989 new Yorker 3.0 v6 4 speed Auto Trans (41TE Ultradrive/ A604) runs great when cold but as soon as it starts to warm up it begins to lurch and this gets worse the warmer it gets (it has overheated in the past to the point of boiling over but the head gasket and head are fine and it no longer overheats thanks to a new thermostat, radiator cap and radiator flush) if you press the throttle all the way it will almost cut out you have to press the throttle approx 1/2 an inch no more or the car will lag (the gas will catch and lurch then stop and you have to wait for the gas to surge again, usually within 2-5 seconds) I have checked the MAP sensor with your test of removing the vacuum pipe and testing the voltage ,I have replaced the 02 sensor, I have also tested the TPS with a ohmmeter and the resistance slowly increases with the movement of the throttle, and the coolant temp sensor is fine as I tried a new one and it changed nothing could it be that the coil is getting too hot? And not creating a spark fast enough as the idle is fine when it starts to lag, or could it be the fuel pump is not delivering enough pressure. There is also a 'bum-shift' throughout the temperature range, which is more pronounced from 2-1,but present in all gears. This had stopped when I removed and cleaned the solenoid pack (no fluid change or filter) yet just now it started to ‘bump-shift’ again. The codes I get are 22: Coolant sensor voltage too low,-Testes this and it was 2-3v not 5but the MAP sensor voltage was 5v so I tried to jump a wire from the map to the CTS and it gave a 44 code (no FJ2 voltage present at PCM)and put the MIL lamp on,13: Little or no change in map - I tested this and the voltage was around 4 .5 when the pipe was disconnected,33 A/C relay (not a problem) Please HELP I am running out of ideas and money fast."

found a melted connector behind the battery and the wire that should go to the CTS has 12v hot for some reason so I am cutting the connector off and just joining the wires together and running a new wire from the CTS to pin 2 of the SEMC so we will see what happens there .As far as the bump-shift it seems to have cleared up by adding a ground wire directly from the battery to one of the TCM mounting bolts $4 is cheaper than a re-build or a new TCM, well wish me luck as I delvce into the 20 year old wiring here goes (holds breath).

oh got a new code 26/27 so the wiring is definitley faulty as that is the injectors which strangely enough is another melted block

Hello again guys, Thanks for your reply it was very informative, I have soldered very wire that looked broken or melted, I have replaced the fusible links that were slightly melted but still continuous, I have cleaned the pins of the SEMC and I have sealed up every vacuum leak and the cold air feed ducting (in case the air flow meter was giving a false signal by the intake manifold pulling in air from around the ducting instead of through the air flow meter) even sealed the hole in the bottom of the air filter housing (about the size of a nickel, perfectly round looked like a factory made hole maybe for a mounting grommet ?). There are no codes stored in the SEMC other than the 12 number of key-ons, 33 (AC relay) and the always good to see 55. I have cured the ‘bump-shifting’ by adding a thick ground wire straight from the battery terminal to one of the TCM mounting bolts. The car is shifting perfectly even the kick down is working perfectly, the car is driving great with plenty of power and acceleration … until the gauge rises and when it rises it still loses power and I can hear popping from the air filter housing and the exhaust when I mash the gas pedal, if I turn it off for any length of time (5-10 seconds) and start it up it drives great again for a couple of miles so I am led to believe that the temperature is immaterial and more about the time driving like maybe a component cannot go the distance? . Oh and it is a little harder to start from cold now too but that is not a problem just thought it might help you to diagnose the problem running out of ideas, the O2 sensor, the CTS and the thermostat are new and the TPS and MAP sensor are functioning correctly all the voltages to these are correct and I have not got a clue where to go next. Your help has been invaluable thus far and if you cannot help me any further you have at least gotten me this far. – Thanks -Paul

By the way it was the fuel pump - thanks