cranks but will not start

When the engine won't start, are you getting both spark and fuel to the engine? To diagnose a no-start condition you must find out what is missing.

Read this guides, they will help you figure this out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

I have a Hanes manual,tried to run the tests discribed in the book for no start. came to the auto shutdown relay, the book says terminal 86 should only have voltage present when the key is on. there is voltage present at all times on both terminal. 86 & 30. what would cause this?

there is supposed to be voltage at both of those terminals with key on. one is hot and the other is hot when key Is turned on to activate the relay. best thing here is to try to scan for codes if you have one available then try wiggle test on crank sensor and finally check crank sensor. those are the two biggest culprits for a no start. if you wiggle the connection and it starts then you may need a new connector.

I realize there is supposed to be voltage to both of those terminals when the key is on but when the key is off there should only be voltage to one of them and there is voltage to both. I will check the crankshaft position censor and get back to you.

we have put a code scanner on the car and it won't read for some reason.

check fuses underhood first then probe wires to see if it has power one should it may be a bad connection. scanner has to have key on to work.

The car shut off suddenly and we have not been able to start it since. It is turning over normally with no sputtering or missing. The fuel pump has been checked and is fine. Timing Belt was changed at 13000 miles. There is no spark from the coil. Could this be the coil pack or a crank shaft sensor?

We have never had any trouble starting the car in the 2 yrs we have had it.. or any other problems. We have power, lights, good battery charge. etc. It just won't start.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Belinda

Common that I ve seen it was the coil inside the distributor or the distributor
always replaced it as a unit
have to check for codes also check if have a SYNC on the cam and crank sensor

also check coil here are numbers to relate to it.
Disconnect distributor 2-pin connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between terminals. If resistance is. 66-. 8 ohm, go to next step. If resistance is not. 66-. 8 ohm, replace ignition coil.
Measure resistance between coil tower and each terminal of distributor 2-pin connector. Resistance should be 12, 000-18, 000 ohms. If resistance is not as specified, replace ignition coil.

Cirrus with the 2.5 history. crank no spark-solution new dist, wires and plugs. ran great after that.4 months later, died coming home, refired ran rough and then no start. put on new fuel pump and cranked and got no bus on dash that was the first time for that. cranked some more and got it to start. ran ok but idled rough and had to feather the throttle when I test drove it or it died. If you mashed the gas it was like it was empty space and would die. started up a few more times after that, now cranks but dont start. I put a new egr valve on and crank sensor and new battery. has fuel and spark. checked all fuses and relays. still will not start. it is not throwing any codes. could it be the PCM? Im running out of ideas. Thanks for any suggestions..

If you have spark and fuel, it should run unless the it's out of time.

Engine Performance problem
1999 Chrysler Cirrus 6 cyl Automatic 192800 miles

My car cut off on me a couple days ago in the middle of traffic and would not start again. I had it towed to a shop where they replace the fuel pump and fuel filter but it still will not start. The mechanics don't know what the problem is either. I asked if it could be the timing. They say the spark plugs aren't getting any fire so it can't be the timing. Is that correct? My mother was having the same problem with her 94 Chrysler and her mechanics (different than mine) said her timing belt skipped and the timing is off now.

If the vehicle is still in the shop, I can't second guess from here? Fuel--spark--codes, whatever. I guess your saying it cranks good but won't start?

I have a 1999 Cirrus 2.5 V6 . My problem is that I have a hard time starting it when the humidity level in the air is high. Whenever there is a lot of moisture in the air, it's very hard to start it and no, it doesn't have to be a rainy day. I've heard from other chrysler users sharing the same problem. I had the fuel pump replaced last year, but didn't have this problem until about nine months later...any solutions?

It sounds like the moisture is affecting the ignition system. Here is a real easy test. At night (in the dark) start the engine, open the hood, and mist water on the plug wires, coils... Check for anything that creates an electrical arc. If you see one, that is where the problem is coming from.

I have a 1995 Chrysler Cirrus, the car turns over but won't start. I am not getting any spark. I have changed out the distributor, and the computer and still nothing. What else could it be?????

alot, you shold scan for codes when it first broke down to see what sensor may have gone bad. check your cam an dcrank sensors for resistance

There were no error codes coming up, can it still be crank or cam sensor?

yes but it needs to be checked. a scanner won't do you much good now as you have replaced the computer. check your fuel presure too it may be low an dnot allowing a start

Will low fuel pressure keep me from getting a spark??? Anyway fuel pressure is fine.

could u tell me what mosty goes out on these
it seems to be a common problem for these year car

thank you very much PS I don't have much money

Cranks over and will not start

Do below might lead you somewhere

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

did you check compression and the timing belt??

roy

compression is good and so is the timing belt

what is the compression??

Roy

after changing out everything I said before and now changing out the crankshaft sensor the car finally started but now the timing seems to be off, any suggestions???

thats why we asked for the compression. if the belt moved a tooth off it will give you a power issue

the timing is not adjustable on these anymore.

Roy

Compression, timing, is all ok with car. now car is running rich slugish (I'm thinking oxygen sensor) and none of my gauges are working. Could something have shorted out that caused all these problems?????

we just bought a 1996 chrysler cirrus from my aunt and she said her bf had been driving the car and he let it sit for a few weeks while driving another car and when he went to start it one morning the car wouldnt start..it would crank but not start.. my bf changed the distributor cap and a few other things..but it still wont get a spark please help us

Grab a test light or voltmeter and measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire at one of the injectors. You might need a stretched out paper clip to back-probe next to the wire. You should find 12 volts there for one second after turning on the ignition switch, then it should come back during engine cranking. Holler back with what you find.

caradiodoc

still haven't gotten a resonse, are you guys there??????

i did all that and the fuel is working.. i took the distributor out and cleaned it..im getting no reading from the drk green/orange striped wire to the distributor and im getting no pulse reading from the coil drive wire to the 6 prong connector to the distributor

one of the reasons we don't answer is whenwe ask you aquestion like what is fuel pressure, ok is not an answer we need to know psi.wht are the codes or have you bothered to scan it and figure i'll just replace parts. Have you checked the fuses for the gauges, two on lh side of dash and one under hood? have you checked under the lh kick panel for a good ground.

Just so I'm clear, you found 0 volts on the dark green / orange wire while a helper was cranking the engine, right? If that's the case, most likely the crankshaft position sensor is not working or the camshaft position sensor in the distributor is not working.

caradiodoc

Before my last question we already figured out it had nothing to do with timing, you never ask about fuel pressure. We couldn't get a good reading with a scan because the computer was no good. Now i just need to know if something could have happened that shorted everything out like the computer the crankshaft sensor, the oxygen sensor etc, etc, etc,

yes o reading from green and orange wire and im also not getting a reading from the coil drive wire i traced the wires to the computer and test to see if there a reading off the computer and got 0 reading Is there suppose to be a reading from the computer ?? i also have put a new crank pos sensor on the car i read the manual and it says the suppose to be a 2 sec pulse on the green/orange wire is that right? i have had people tell me it could be the timing or the distributor or computer need help

if the computer was shorted out it wouldn't run at all. grounds are very important and if dirty/corroded they can give problems. Also chryslers seem to have aproblem with the automatic shutdown relay. just because we didn't ask for fp, doesnt' mean that you can't come back with what it was as we dont' know what ok means or your ability to repair cars.that is why you need to check and see what fuel pressure is including after shutdown because it can make injectors run to rich as well as other things. you think you know how to repair it have fun

Let's back up a minute. Put your voltmeter back on that dark green / orange wire. Watch it while a helper turns on the ignition switch. If you see around 12 volts for just one second when the switch is turned on, that circuit is working.

Next, that voltage must come back during engine cranking. When the engine is rotating, (cranking or running), the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor send pulses to the Engine Computer. The computer turns on the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. That's the relay that sends the 12 volts to the dark green / orange wires to the injectors and coil in the distributor. If that voltage stays a steady 12 volts during engine cranking there's no need to look at those two sensors.

Did you install a new or used crank sensor? New ones will have a thick paper spacer stuck to the end to set the critical air gap or there will be a thin plastic rib molded to the end of it. When you install a used sensor you are supposed to cut off any remaining rib if there is one, then use a new paper spacer.

caradiodoc

im not getting a reading on the orange/dark green wire and i installed a new crank sensor

Engine Performance problem
2000 Chrysler Cirrus 4 cyl 120000 miles

I've been driving this car for the past year with no problems at all. I drove it 2 days ago, then went to go somewhere and it will turn over but will not start. I bought a code reader but there are no codes to report. Also the accelerator pedal feels "soft" to me.
where do I start - fuel filter, pump, pressure regulator?