Won't shift into gear

Check transmission fluid for proper level while hot and idling in park. Will the car roll in neutral?

This guide should help us,

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please run down this guide and report back.

i can't even move the shift lever out of park, but the engine does start

If you can remove the shifter lever underneath car and actuate the transmission by hand then there might be a problem in the column. If you can not move it then the transmission has locked up past the torque converter. How did it run before you had this problem?

I just had the same problem today, I took my car to the dealership and they told me I need a new transmission because an internal pump went bad. They informed me that it had been running low on transmission fluid but only the dealership can check the transmission fluid. My car had been to the dealership 5 times since July and it is evident that they never checked. The transmission modular was replaced and then it gave the code that the transmission would not prim. Normally a pump can be replaced but the pump for the 300 is not sold separately therefore the entire transmission has to be replaced. I don't understand this for a car that is only 2 years old and has been serviced properly. Not to mention the $700 I already put into it for a tuneup that was not due until 96K miles.

chances are plastic pink park lockout is broken in the shifter area. The dealership is going to charge you over $100 to fix it.

Under the shiftier cover ( the chrome and black plastic piece surrounding the shiftier lever) once you remove this you have to unscrew your gear shift handle and then unsnap the selector piece (R, N, D ) and once removed you will see a PINK plastic piece on the upper right side just under the shift assembly, This is a very weak plastic piece that is supposed to be connected to a small spring hooked to the front of the housing. The hook breaks off and the spring falls off. They don't just sell this part and the whole shiftier is about $600. So I found a fix that has worked now for months and is still working. First your going to have to remove the whole shiftier assembly (sounds hard but simple) It has 4 bolts one on each corner they are 10 mm remove them and release the two cables on the front ,,, then unplug any wire connections. once done you will need to remove the ash tray by simply pulling it gently from the dash and then pull the radio bezel off and just push these two parts up , no need to unplug them.. then gently lift the shiftier assembly out and remove the top cover. ( just pop it off the plastic holds and it slides off) once removed you will see the Pink plastic piece and look for the spring. Take the Pink plastic piece and you will see a really small broken spot on the front where the hook was, remove the Pink piece and use a 1/32 drill bit and drill all the way through it. Then take a small piece of strong wire and feed it through the hole folding it towards the front, place the spring there and twist the wire to secure the spring. this will replace the broken hook. then just reverse the disassemble process and place it back in car and your on your way..

Transmission problem
2007 Chrysler 300 Automatic
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WHY CANT I PUT MY CAR IN REVERSE THE STICK SHIFT WONT GO TO REVERSE

FIRST OF ALL I need to stress that transmissions are not something I would recommend a novice mechanic trying to tackle. Especially a Chrysler transmission.
There has been a number of TSBs about this problem. Unfortunately there has been no same answer for all of them.
I'm going to assume you have the 3.5L HO engine since it has been the most problematic.
First you need to check the fluid level in the transmission. In some of the vehicles you have to have a dip stick that you order FROM Diamler-Chrysler as they are not included with the vehicle. Once you have acquired the dipstick you have to let the car sit idle until it is at it's normal operational temperature which should be in the neighborhood of 212 degrees (give or take a little). Now you insert the dipstick into the refill tube and when you remove it there should be fluid up to the 60mm mark. Use caution when adding transmission fluid because it usually doesn't take much and it WILL SET OFF A CODE IF YOU ADD TOO MUCH. Not to mention there is no drain plug for the tranny to remove fluid. Also when checking the fluid check for signs of signs of water contamination (pink, foamy) or burnt clutch material (dark, smells strong). If there is water you need to break the transmission down, clean it out, and replace any damaged parts and all electronics that may have been exposed to the water. If it is a burnt clutch you simply need to replace the clutch (make a new bulletin if you need help with that as it can be a lengthy process and would take up a lot of room on here.) Another thing to check for is to place the vehicle on jack stands or a lift if you have one and have someone shift gears. Look for the shifter linkage to move. If it moves then you have an internal problem and you must tear the transmission down and visually inspect the internal parts. If it does not move you need to use a digital multimeter to see if the servo that controls the shifter linkage is working properly electronically. If the voltage seems okay and it was the servo not working then you need to remove the servo and try to operate it manually. If you can not then you will need to order a new one. Also, is the check engine/transmission light on? If so take your vehicle to an automotive shop or dealership and have it checked with STARscan or some other scan tool to identify the code that has been set. You can usually save yourself a lot of grief and time by doing this first. Make sure the technician that checks the codes tells you exactly what the code means or if possible print it out for you if you intend on tackling this problem yourself. Do not assume this is an easy task. Transmissions in today's vehicles are vastly more complex than an old turbo 350. Many chrysler vehicles use hydrostat transmissions with have literally over a thousand parts, nuts, bolts, sensors, and not to mention the electronic parts involved to operate them. So if you are not confident you can diagnose the problem by yourself it would be best to let the technicians handle it. And having it towed to the shop half way disassembled will only add time to the repairs that need to be made.

My engine light came on and codes are P1776 and P0700. I have checked the shifter cable adjustment, changed my train fluid and filter, replaced input and output speed sensors, and checked relays. Also, last year I replaced both camshaft and crankshaft sensors and pigtail, water pump, and timing belt. The last thing I can thing to do before I actually have to take it in and have the tcm and pcm replaced is to replace the transmission control solenoid. Should replacing the solenoid fix this problem? I have read that these solenoids are a very big problem with the 300m's.

do yourself a favor have a trans guy look at this as you may have a bad seal or clutchplates worn out before dumping more money int othis. this culd also be a software upgrade for this as well for the tcm it can also be a l/r pressure switch problem.

One of the issues is the valve body is stock in the LR position, that is why I want to know if replacing the solenoid will fix that issue, if I could afford to have someone else fix it trust me I would do just that, I can not afford the part and labor for this type of job so I am stuck doing it myself for now. Can u tell me if the solenoid can contribute to this or not?

OK thank U so much for nothing. If I could take my car to a train shop, I would! I would not be here asking for input. I have enough knowledge to fix some things on my car to save me even a little money. I am def not happy with the damn answer I got here, which was a whole lot of nothing, I could have called a shop to get the answer I got here! I will never use this cite again rest assured!

A transmission shop will give you a free estimate to see if the problems we described are happening. You can still do the work yourself after the inspection. Throwing parts at a problem can get expensive. We have refunded your donation. We would never consider keeping your money since we were not able to help.

i know you are ticked off, but here is whatthis explains about the l/r causing you to think your solenoid is bad . this is directly from chrysler in our manual that we have.
Name Of Code: P1776(47)  Solenoid Switch Valve Latched in LR Position

When Monitored: Continuously when doing partial or full EMCC (PEMCC or FEMCC)

Set Condition: If the transmission senses the LR pressure switch closing while performing PEMCC or FEMCC. This code will be set after two unsuccessful attempts to perform PEMCC or FEMCC.

Theory Of Operation: The solenoid switch valve (SSV) controls the direction of the transmission fluid when the LR/TCC solenoid is energized. SSV will be in the downshifted position in 1st gear, thus directing the fluid
to the LR clutch circuits. In 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, the SSV will be in the upshifted position and directs the fluid into the torque converter clutch (TCC).

When doing PEMCC or FEMCC, the LR pressure switch should indicate no pressure if the SSV is in the TCC position. If the LR pressure switch indicates pressure while in PEMCC or FEMCC, EMCC operation is
aborted and inhibited to avoid inadvertent application of the LR clutch. Partial EMCC will be attempted if the LR pressure switch does not indicate pressure. A second detection of LR pressure results in setting the code.

Transmission Effects: At speeds above 72 Km/h (45 MPH), EMCC is inhibited. Once speed falls below 72 Km/h (45 MPH), the transmission will go into Limp in mode and the MIL will illuminate after 5 minutes of
substituted operation.

Possible Causes:

Valve body  Solenoid valve stuck in LR position
Intermittent short to ground or open circuit in LR Pressure Switch Sense circuit (with code 24 only)
Solenoid pack (with code P0841(24) only)

Was helpfull to me because my tranny dhop is trlling me i need a new or rebuilt tranny and were do i get the softwere uprgrad..i would like to do that and the lr solenoid if that would postpone or fix my probelem thanks

the software upgrade needs to be done at a dealer it won't fix the problem however . especially stuck in position. It may be the switch on trans that tells what gear it is in but that is a long shot.

So a safer bet would be to chaing the solenoid since he says thats one of the codes..or should i be lookin for another tranny..i just bought the car and i only feel the hard shift into second say when i dont it warm up and i police cruise it clunks into second..but if i take off withe more gas it shifts fine..im just not tryin to buy a tranny now..thx

sounds like a pressure problem but most of us mechanics don't do auto trans. or it's a seal starting to go.

Swapped engines. Now transmission will not shift. Gear shift moves but car will not. When in park does not move when pushed. But you can push it when in any other gear. Did I make sense?

Hello,

It sounds like the bolts for the torque converter where not installed or the torque converter has not installed correctly when installing the engine. Also check the transmission fluid level.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Put tranny fluid in but ended up all over the ground. Will check the other advice. Will let you know thank you

first fix the trans leak. whenever engines are replaced by some times the torque converter slides forward then is not put back in then engine is bolted up and started which the torque converter slides out of oil pump then destroys it on start up of different engine if converter wasn't put back in towards trans then this is what happened.

So if this happened can the torque converter be replaced only or does the whole tranny need replaced

If the torque converter was not in all the way and the transmission was bolted up then at least the front pump of the transmission will need to be replaced. Sorry, its a hard lesson and most mechanics learn it the hard way so don't feel bad. I speak from experience :)

See if you can get a used transmission.

sometime the vehicle will not change from 1st gear to 2nd gear and if i stop ,turn the vehicle off and drive off again , the car will change gears as it should. somtimes iam driving along and the vehicle goes into this want change gears mode.

Actually, second gear is the default for "limp mode". That allows you to drive slowly to a repair shop without needing a tow truck. As a general rule, if it goes to second gear as soon as you shift into "drive", it is a sensor or other electrical issue. If it starts out in first gear like normal, then bangs to second gear during or right after an up-shift, it is usually due to slippage in one of the clutch packs. That happens more commonly on high-mileage vehicles. Years ago we had a year or two of warning because we could feel the shifts become sloppy or soft. With your computer-controlled transmission, the computer knows how much wear has taken place in the clutch plates and it modifies shift timing to overcome that wear and provide continued crisp, solid shifts, . . . until the day comes when it can't update those shift schedules enough. That's when the slippage takes place with no warning and it goes to limp mode. The clutches don't actually wear out any faster. It's just that you don't having the warning it's happening.

Your mechanic will start by reading the stored diagnostic fault codes. That will tell him the reason it went to limp mode. He can also read the "clutch volume index", (CVI). That is a set of four numbers corresponding to the volume of fluid it takes to apply each clutch pack. An experienced mechanic will know how much life is left in each clutch based on those numbers.

Before putting engine in we mounted torque convert to the engine. So what could it be

probably what ken just replied, the torque converter should have been put in trans instead of engine soyou probably damaged pump to where you have nothing moving in trans.

Ok ty. We are going Friday to get tranny. Is there anything special I need to know before putting all of it back together. We are taking engine and tranny out in one piece and putting back in one piece.

make sure the converter is in all the way you'll know then bolt trans to engine after engine is installed bolt up converter. converter should be about an inch away from engine at least after bolting up. make sure the electrical connections will work as well.

Is there any interchangeable transmissions for this model. 2005 chrysler 300c 3.5 v6 rw drive

check with a junk yard they know better than us.

yesterday my 300 wouldn't change past first gear and rev to 3 grand at 5o kms i tried using the auto shift but all the lights on the gears came on and nothing happened.
park, neutral, and reverse all work fine but won't shift gears when driving.
i hope this is an easy fix i only bought the car a year ago and love driving it.
please help!

Sticking in second gear is "limp mode" that allows you to drive it slowly to a repair shop without needing a tow truck; definitely not at highway speed. In general, when it starts out in second gear and all the shift indicator lights are on, it's usually a sensor or other electrical problem. If it bangs back down to second gear during or right after an up-shift, it's more likely to be slippage in one of the clutch packs. Either way, there will be at least one diagnostic fault code stored in the Transmission Computer. Having those codes read is the place to start. You'll need a mechanic with a scanner that can access the Electronic Automatic Transmission Controller (EATX).

I have a 99 Chrysler 300m that won't shift out of 1st gear even with the auto stick. I have replaced the input and output transmission sensors and still no fix. I also did a transmission filter kit and still no change. My speedo works and there are no transmission codes present. What's going on can it be the TCM ?

Scan the TCM for code/s could be a sticking shifting solenoid/s, you could also have it pressure tested to find out more-

There was no codes present on that which is weird. Also when I pulled the TCM shutdown relay there was absolutely no change to it. Still drove the same no shifting into 2nd. Do you think that the TCM has an issue or is stuck on off mode?