Chirping noise

That is a sign that the belt is slipping. Either the belt tensioner is getting weak, the belt is worn or you have an accessory or idler pulley that has a bearing starting to fail.

The most common issue is a worn belt. You cannot tell just by looking at a modern belt or even hoses and determine if they are worn or about to fail, unless the damage is cracking or pieces missing, that is due to the materials and compounds used today. Especially with the belts as the amount of change between good and worn out is not 1/2 of a millimeter on the ribs. On your vehicle it does have a belt range but it is more for a new belt than a used one. It is shown in the attached images.

Next most common is a weak tensioner, these are also hard to determine unless you have the specifications for the installed unit and a way to measure it.

My SOP is to use a belt wear gauge to check the belt, then if it is worn, replace it and the tension-er. While it is off I also check everything else the belt drives to avoid having other issues.

In your case I would start with replacing the belt. Then look at the tension-er to see if it is holding the belt tight enough by using the new belt notch. If it is in the notch then the tension-er should be okay.

My car is off and has been making a chirping noise I check the a/c and its all off the noise seems to be coming from the bottom.

Is it from the exhaust? The exhaust system gets hot while running and after engine is turned off, it might emit noises as it cools down.

My car chirps when the A/C is on and idling. It stops when I turn the steering wheel. It has around 97000 miles and no work has been done on it recently. From what I've read here, I believe I need a belt and tensioner. Is this correct and what are the exact parts I will need?
Thank you!

Hello,

Ok, there are 3 possibilities.....

1 - Idler or Tensioner Pulley Bearing going bad

2 - Weak tensioner

3 - A/C Clutch Bearing going bad

To check for bad Idler or Tensioner Pulley bearing going bad, with can of spray lube in hand find the 2 pulleys(DO NOT START VEHICLE YET) spray 1 of the pulleys at the center bolt. Start engine, if noise is gone for a couple minutes then returns replace pulley, If noise still present turn off vehicle and spray the other pulley and start engine, again if noise is gone for couple minutes and returns replace pulley.

If noise is still present turn off engine, spray around the A/C Clutch and pulley area as best you can, start engine, if noise is gone for couple mminutes then you will have to change the clutch assembly if available if not then will need to replace A/C Compressor.

Tensioner - while engine is running watch the tensioner does it appear to move excessively? If so replace tensioner assembly.

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obxautomedic, can the described above cause the engine to stall if it is the clutch assembly? I may have a combination of the above plus i have replaced the crank possitioning sensor and the speed sensor twice already.

IF the AC compressor is frozen solid, it MIGHT be able to make the engine stall while idling. But it's highly doubtful.

Push on the belt in the middle of the belt between the 2 pulleys that are farthest apart. You should not be able to cause the belt to deflect more than about an inch with moderate force. You can also try the twist test: Twist the belt in the same place. You shouldn't be able to twist the belt beyond half a turn. While twisting, check the contact surface of the belt, looking for cracks. Cracks are bad.
The tensioner shouldn't be able to be moved (to loosen the belt) by hand.

All you should need to change the belt and tensioner is a couple wrenches, a ratchet, and some sockets, plus the new belt and tensioner.