1992 Chevy Truck Park-lps fuse is blown

1992 CHEVROLET TRUCK
207,000 MILES • V8 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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CHEVYMAN0723
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I recently bought a truck from a buddy of mine whom never had a problem with it. Recently my park lps fuse keeps blowing which controls my running lights and my dash lights. I temporarily fixed it by wrapping a gum wrapper around the fuse and putting it in. Worked for a month or so but lastnight I hit a speed bump pretty hard and it stopped working and actually started melting the fuse. Where should I start looking and is this a common problem with these vehicles? 1992 Chevy CK1500 4x4 5.7L v8
Nov 11, 2009 at 10:56 AM
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JDL
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welcome to the forum, Check the circuits at the headlamp switch. can you unplug the connector/s at the rear, for all rear lites. Then use a testlite between voltage and brown wire. The testlite controls the load, if it comes on, the brown wire circuit is shorted to ground somewhere from the test point to rear. I don't hunt the short on a long circuit. I make sure which circuit has the short, then clip the old wire front and back, leave a pigtail, long enough to splice onto, run new wire. I splice temporarily at first, just to see if everything will work.

I used the brown wire as an example, longest circuit. You have to find which wire has the short.
Nov 11, 2009 at 1:03 PM
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CHEVYMAN0723
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[quote:1cfa4f6374="jdl123"]welcome to the forum, Check the circuits at the headlamp switch. can you unplug the connector/s at the rear, for all rear lites. Then use a testlite between voltage and brown wire. The testlite controls the load, if it comes on, the brown wire circuit is shorted to ground somewhere from the test point to rear. I don't hunt the short on a long circuit. I make sure which circuit has the short, then clip the old wire front and back, leave a pigtail, long enough to splice onto, run new wire. I splice temporarily at first, just to see if everything will work.

I used the brown wire as an example, longest circuit. You have to find which wire has the short.[/quote:1cfa4f6374]

your saying check the headlamp switch in the dash? and to unplug the tail lights and test there? if there were a short there wouldnt my brake lights not work either? the running lights and dash lights are the ones not working. my brake lights work only when i hit the brake and my turn signals work when i use them. maybe im just slow but could you explain this in further detail for me?
Nov 11, 2009 at 9:30 PM
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JDL
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Hi, maybe I misunderstood? My info showed your tail lights and dash lights work off the same fuse. Your brake lites/turn work off other circuit. I'm not saying it has to be the tail lamp circuit, I always suspect the longest circuit first.
Nov 12, 2009 at 9:25 AM
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CHEVYMAN0723
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[quote:4976ecf679="jdl123"]Hi, maybe I misunderstood? My info showed your tail lights and dash lights work off the same fuse. Your brake lites/turn work off other circuit. I'm not saying it has to be the tail lamp circuit, I always suspect the longest circuit first.[/quote:4976ecf679]

your right im sorry. now theres a wiring harness in bak and after that the wires spread out and go 2 the tail lights and such. your saying 2 check there with the test light between the power wire and the others? whichever one it lights up on is the wire with the short correct? and which is the power wire?
Nov 12, 2009 at 10:25 PM
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JDL
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_92_chevy_truck_3.jpg

you have to be sure, whatever circuit you test, that circuit has to be discounted at both ends. As an example, the tail lamp circuit, take the connector loose from headlamp switch, then you have to disconnect the circuit at the rear, that way, the only ground for the testlite is a short. Orange wire is voltage for tail and dash. Red wire is only voltage for headlamps. Not sure if I'm being clear?
Nov 13, 2009 at 11:37 AM