Turns over but won't start

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

This guide should help

My truck ran fine until the other day. I shut it off for a minute while I was picking up food, and when I came back it turned over but wouldn't start. I let it sit there overnight, and the next day it started and ran fine until I shut it off and tried to start it again. Now it turns over and rarely starts, but still runs fine once it's on. Since this problem, I've replaced the ignition control module and the ignition coil to no avail. I replaced the whole distributor a month ago, before I had this problem.

Check the fuel pressure, fuel pump could be on its way out

If the fuel pump was dying, would it still run fine once the engine gets started? I would think it would die while driving but I'm not an expert. Also, I used a timing light to check for spark while cranking and there was nothing...so no spark and no fuel...I'm stumped.

If the fuel pump was dying, the only way to tell is check the fuel pressure with a gauge-Now that you also have no spark am beginning to think computer.

Double check again-Do below

disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor /distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM,Ignitor camshaft and crankshaft sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

If both fuel pressure and blue spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing belt/chain

I recently changed the head gaskets on my 1991 Chevrolet C1500 with a 4.3l 6 cyl due to overheating. There was a crack in the front of the right side gasket. Everything else was fine.

Put everything back together and now it will not start. It just turns over at an accellerated rate. By that I mean it turns over fast not sluggishly.

Figured I didn't put the distributor back in correctly so pulled the #1 plug and felt for the compression but there is none. Checked other plugs and same thing, no compression. Using the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, I reset the distributor. I got a loud backfire and then same thing - turns over but wont start.

I am guessing my problem is timing. The absence of compression suggests the timing chain, but before i take it apart to that point, am I missing something simpler or is there something else I should test?

Thanks for the assistance.

Hi
What proceedure was used to set valve lash? was say a Chiltons manual used? if valves are too tight they will not seat and no compression.
Let me know
Thanks for donate

Doc,

Thanks. I think a light bulb just went off over my head. I did use a Chilton's and obviously misread it. The book says that valve adjustment on 1991-98 7.4L engines and 1995-98 models equipped with V6 engines is not required and to just torque to specifications. Obviously I don't have a 7.4L engine and obviously I went through this too fast because that is exactly what I did - torgued the valves to specs.

Guess my next job is to remove the valve covers and properly adjust - carefully reading the book this time.

Two last questions - did or could I screw anything up by doing this wrong? and 2) any tips or advice on fixing the problem.

Thanks for the quick response.

You should be O.K. done this myself lots of times. Put engine on ADJUST
#1 TDC INTAKE EXHAUST
1-2-3 1-5-6
Turn crank 360deg to TDC #4
4-5-6 2-3-4
Turn nut while spining pushrod when pushrod gets to hard to turn go 1 full turn more.

My engine cranks but will not start, I have no spark. I have a diagnostic program on my computer and I have done every troubleshooting test that pertains to the ignition system. I replaced my Distributor, HEI Module, Pick-Up Coil, Wires, Ignition Coil, Distributor Cap and Rotor, Electronic Spark Control Module, still no spark. I checked all my fuses, all ignition components have good ground, still no spark. All my ignition components have power. Still nothing. Before this happened I had starting problems. It would start cold but after the engine was warm sometimes the starter would not work. I replaced the starter and battery wire and it worked for a while, but then it started happening again. Now it has no spark. I was thinking the two problems were related but I don't no what else to check. I have even swapped out my ECM with one from my other truck that runs and it still won't spark.

check your oil pressure switch at the rear of the motor kinda under and behind the distributor, if that goes out the truck won't start to prevent engine damage from running without oil pressure, I am not sure but I would guess it would prevent spart which inturn wshould prevent fuel from spraying, it is a big mess, but i would start with that oil switch.

1991 chevy 3500 w/ 454. Intermittant problem starting. No spark or fuel. I have replaced ecu, ignition module, cap rotor, coil wires and plugs. Fuel filter and relay.

Did check primary voltage at the coil, pink wire, goes hot with the key on. Any voltage? Any applicable trouble codes? The pick-up coil sends a signal through the ignition module to the computer, without that signal, no spark or injector pulse.

I replaced coil already. Do not know how to check for pulse. This problem is wierd. All of the sudden it will start and run for 2 to 5 weeks, then just not start.

I am going to check for codes now

Did you check for voltage on the pink wire, key on. Which coil did you replace? I don't believe you can replace pickup coil with removing distributor?

Ok very frustrating- 164000 miles Car didn't want to start replaced the starter and it started a few days and died wouldn't jump thought the rebulit starter had problems replaced it. Still only clicks won't start. Checked fuses connections. fuseable link on start good. Tried to replace the coil that didn't do anything. Wondering what next should i look at...,please help

So we replaced the ignition switch and now the car clicks like the battery is dead, but battery tested it was fine. The funny thing is you could test for error codes and then the car started a couple of times. Now it won't start at all just clicks. Also the error codes just flash 12 continuesly it is suppose to do it 3 times then flash the error code anyone else think it could be the brain. If you have an idea or anyone else have an idea at all please help :(

I just checked for codes. There were no codes thrown.

Some times the ground cable from the battery to the engine block will corrode inside the plastic and you cant see it. Check your ground cable and make sure it is not corrodded or have a bad connect to the engine block.
If you have a clicking start relay while trying to start, you have a weak battery, bad ground, loose connection or bad start relay. Try to eliminate each item one by one to avoid replacing parts that dont need to be replaced.

Can you answer my questions about the pick-up coil and pink wire?

the starter clicks?? does it sound like the starter is engagin but wont turn the fly wheel???which engine do u have in the rs

I replaced the coil that is outside of distributer. Where the coil wire goes.

hey listen i have a 89 firebird 5.0 that was doint the same thing did u inspect the internal engine??? this is easy to do use a socket and a rachet and try to turn the cam by the cam bolt is should move if it doesnt move something is wrong inside the engine causing youre starter to not be able to turn the car over lemme kno what engine u have

How about the pink, use a voltmeter, should be hot/voltage with the key on.

Okay lets go over what's been done. Car was starting to overheat replace the water pump. car was working okay but having a hard time starting, then the starter went out we replace the starter. Car started fine for about 4 days and then started the car and went to the gas station and turned the car off and it wouldn't restart just clicked thought it was the battery and tried to jump it wouldn't jump.
Now we have never had a vat key for the car but was told by the dealer that it should have had one. So one question is there a way they could have by passed this system that went out? Now we went and tried a new starter a second time and still nothing. Battery tested good. Then we replaced the coil and still nothing. Then the ignition module and still nothing. Tested the fuseable links all test good. Fuses are all good under dash board. enless i am missing one not in the fuse box. Battery cables good. Have power to the starter. Now when you test the brain for error codes it continuely flashes 12 and a couple of times we could get the car to start after this now nothing except clicks. Next question could it be the brain since i can't get it to give me an error code? We know the starter is good we get it to turn outside the car. What am i forgetting to check please help???? it is a 5.0l engine

I dont have voltmeter. I have TBI with 2 injectors. one injector has a red and blue wire and the other injector has a green and white wire. I used a simple test light and checked the red wire and it lit up with the ingnition turned on.

Engine Performance problem
1991 Chevy Truck Two Wheel Drive Automatic
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there is no fire whatsoever when i try to start my truck. could it be the coil? what other problems could it be?

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/car_cranks_but_wont_start.htm
Go here for in depth troubleshooting advice for your condition!

You said you have no spark. Without at least a voltmeter or testlite, it's hard to do any testing.

I just checked the pink wire coming out of the ignition module. My testlite did not light up with ignition ON

Then check feed to and from ignition switch. The pink wire to ignition coil is in the diagram, the feed comes from the ignition switch.

Follow pink wire under the hood, see if goes to an electrical connector, check voltage on both side of connector, key on. Might be a problem with ignition switch or wiring circuit?

Can be one of two things, most likely is a failing cam sensor which is located under the plate in the distributor. It is much easier to replace the distributor for $100, than to press off the drive gear and dismantle the distributor to replace it ( I'm a tightwad, and will never attempt that again ). It will work one day, and just not work the next. The other possibility is a failing computer, which is about the same price, but usually just fails,non intermittent. It is located behind the glove box. If I were you, I would clean all the contacts on the wires inside and outside the distributor first ( there is a 2 prong plug on the outside, and a four prong on the inside )

Engine Mechanical problem
1991 Chevy Truck V8 Four Wheel Drive

i hope you can help me with this problem .. my 6.2 diesel will run for what ever time once i shut it off it will not start till the next day ....it is a 1991 chevy 1500 series..4 wheel drive ..

This truck can drive you to drink when they have problems. It can be a lot of different things and most of them are not cheep. Not sure if you have tried anything yet or not, like fuel filter or just regular up keep stuff. If all of that is good the you most likely have a bad fuel pump driver, it is a small black box under the intake beside the injector pump"thing with all the lines coming out of it. It is about $350 and is a dealer part, some injector shops have them but i have never been able to find them cheep anywhere. The good thing is that any G.M dealer that does trucks much at all will have them because they give a lot of trouble.
If you are not kind of good at working on these trucks it might be advised to find a shop you can trust and let them look at it because the parts are so high and when you put them on you can not return them most all of the time. Not to say that you will not figure it out, just can get costly.

Chevy s-10 truck, battery had an excessive drain on it. We replaced with new battery. still will not start. will click when we try to turn over, if you are using jumper cables it will try turn over but not crank. could this be an alternator or charger problem.

Hi:
If the engine will not crank, but you are hearing a clicking, it sounds like the solenoid is bad on the starter. Remove the starter and have it bench tested at your local parts store. It sounds like it may need replaced.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Joe