Engine will no start up and run?

First check all your fuses. Next check to see if your fuel pump is running. Put your ear on the gas tank and have someone turn your key forward but don't start it.


This guide should help


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start


You should hear the pump running for 3 or 4 seconds.
If it does't run unhook the wire harness down by your tank. You can hook up a 12-volt power source to your wire harness coming off your fuel pump, it should run, if it doesn't you probably need a new one. If it does run, check for power from the engine side of your harness. No power, check your fuel pump relay. I would buy a new one, they're not that expensive and you will no for sure it's not that. If your fuel pump does work, check to see if you are getting fuel to your carb. If your are not, check your fuel line and fuel filter. If your getting fuel, check for spark on one of your spark plug wires. No spark, check for spark from ignition coil to the distributor. Do these checks and get back to me and I'll help you more.

The truck will sometimes stall and then not start when hot. Also, you can shut it off when hot and it will not start. The truck will restart after it cools. Additionally, you can give the truck a small spray of Starting Fluid and it will restart and the engine will remain idling. However, when you try to move the truck it will move 30 to 40 feet, stall and not restart.

The truck has had a fuel pump recently installed. Both the fuel pressure and spark have been tested and are okay.

This truck has the 5.7L (350) Throttle Body Fuel Injection with 3 spd auto transmission and AC.

Any Ideas?
Thank you!

Hi
Suspect injector problem hook up timing light with truck idleing point light at inj. is pattern 360 deg?
Let me know
Thanks for donate

This truck has Throttle Body Injection. Do you mean to point the timing light down into the throttle body to check the spray pattern?

Thx!

That is correct

Checked both injectors with timinig light. Spray pattern looks good for both injectors.

Checked both injector circuits with Norbit Lite loaner test kit from AutoZone. Test indicates that injector circuits are okay.

Other ideas?

Thanks!
Smitty

i drove to work parked came out to go to lunch truck would'nt start no fuel pressure checked for power and ground at pump that was ok replaced pump. ran fine the rest of the day and next morning, than started run poor no power hard starting, the next day it was a no start again no fuel again still had power and ground put another pump in still no start no fuel and still had power and ground bounced the rear of the truck pump stated working and started drove home fine half hour later no start kicked the back bumper and tried again and started. the pump is an aftermarket carter pump.

Did you check your fuel filter? Buy a new one, they're cheap and you no you can rule that out of the equation.

What was fuel pressure? was spark a blue/white spark about 1/2 inch?

It start it runs but won't stay start the engine will lope run smooth then almost quit. It will do this some of the time other times it will die but will restart over no problem. We check the following they were all fine, timing ,egr,fuel pump,fuel filter,pcv . Injector seem to be spraying fuel you can here them working. We can't hear any vacuum leaks there new distributer cap and roader bug ,alternator and starter ! Was wondering if could be Electronic control module ? It act almost like not get enough fuel but it is !

Check the fuel pressure if okay-start by checking and cleaning the idle air control valve.

I check them two ideals the idle air control valve.

Was bad but still having the same problem i also notice that doesn't want to shift beside other problems!

What was the fuel pressure readings?

Duplicate the problem or Next time it dies out-do below immediately to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a carb cleaner and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors-

There rubber hose that inside the gas tank that connected to the fuel pump!
It had small hole in it when the fuel would come out threw the line!
It was only get enough to keep verily running making run so rough!

Did fix more than one problem the check engine light would come on when the engine got warm!
Plus it would start running rough lost of power!

It was the oxygen senor causing that problem!

Thank for all your help!

My 1989 chevy 3500 with 5.7 is hard to start but starts and 10 to 15 seconds later completly shuts down. I have changed the fuel pump, fuel relay,coil , map sensor, temp sensor and new injectors. Its getting gas, it starts it shuts down. Could it be the ECU or the distributor pick up coil, the electric spark control, I have no idea.

Welcome to the forum, Use a gage and check fuel pressure. Engine cranking, can you see injectors spray gas?

Truck starts injectors spray fuel, everything seems to stop at once. A complete loss of ignition.

The injectors should spray during the cranking cycle. Doesn't have to be running.

put a new fuel pump and getting fuel up to the TBI but not in the intake pulled the TBI off and cleaned it. If I put gas in the intake it will start up then die after it burns that fuel up. also put a new fuel falter on it to

scan for codes and see if ignition circuit is sending to tbi if it doesn't it won't start. also check your wires at tbi to make sure they are connected and not broken

no codes wires look good someone told me to try the pick up coil

i just bought this 1989 chevy pickup that's been sitting up for about 5 years. i can pour gas into the carb.(it's a tbi) and it will crank and run till gas is gone.is it the fuel pump,the injectors or something electrical? where do i start?

Turn key to run do you hear the fuel pump for 2secs-if so check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge make sure its within specifiaction then comeback

Engine Performance problem
1989 Chevy Truck V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 189k miles

Truck started shaking and cut off. Cranked and shook for another few seconds and cut off again.Turns over, but will not start. Diesels.. But when it starts it runs like new.. ? Will continue to run with out any hesitation. The truck will even restart with in several (warmed up) min of running. But in the morning same old chug chug and die.. it take atleast 10 min of cranking to get it to start. This is the first time in 20yrs it has done this. At 189k it has always starting with out any trouble at all..

If it is running rough, shaking, and dieseling, it could be a symptom of low fuel pressure. It does not take much for this vehicle, spec is 9-13 psi. One concern is how the maintenance has been. Has the fuel filter been serviced regularly, or has the original gone 189k miles. I would start by considering what has been done for maintenance, checking fuel pressue, and if below spec replacing pump and filter. One other consideration is tune up parts, specifically coil and coil wire. Low spark output on adequate fuel pressure can give you somewhat of the same symptoms.

Thank you so much for your answer.
I have check the fuel pressure and it is good. I changed the fuel filter and pump 10k miles ago. If and when the truck starts it runs like new. The injectors have never been replaced nor the fuel pressure regulator. Would you suggest starting there? The plus and wire have about 40k on them..

Marison

On a TBI system, injector and regulator problems are relatively rare, especially intermittent type problems. There is also a possibility of contaminants in the fuel, perhaps some water. What will happen is, as the vehicle sits, the water gathers and rests in the lowest part of the tank. In motion the water is mixed and the molecules are smaller, and passing them may be less noticeable. It may be advised to take a fuel sample in a clear container and let it sit to see if any moisture is present. Has this concern occurred over more than one tank of fuel?

Now that you mention it. no It could be bad gas.
I know that I am getting plenty of pressure. I will check that next. That could explain the fact when it is moving it runs great. This truck has not been used alot with in the few months. It does sit for week on end. I sure hope that it is the gas. that will be an easy fix..

Thanks

HI there,

I have a 1989 Chevy C1500 with 5.7 liter V8. Here is the story.

I am driving it one day, it's raining, and the truck stalls on the freeway. I AAA the truck back to my house. It sits for a few days before I can get back to it.

I find the time and the truck cranks on the first try. However, it is running rough and stalls again when I give it a little gas while in park. Now, the truck will not start. I wait another day, the truck starts the first try. Same thing happens. Put it into gear, stalls and will not start.

Fast forward: I have replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, TBI ( $500 ) and the EGR valve. Still the same *&^%$ symptom.

When it stalls, exhaust lingers out of the left throttle body area.

I am now at my wits end. I do not know what to do next. Please help.

John Hope, Atlanta, GA.

Have you tested for spark or fuel when it stalls and will not start back up?

Let's hope.

Hi
So I understand you replaced the dist assembly and the TBI assembly? Was fuel pressure checked?
Let me know
Thanks for donate

I will try to test the fuel pressure. What is a good tool to use for this?

I will test again fuel into the TBI and spark after stalling tonight or tomorrow.

a fuel pressure tester, rated for fuel injection systems.
I think mine was about $30 from a parts store.

Good afternoon,

You need to test the fuel pressure and look for 9-13 pounds with the key on, engine off. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds as well for the priming.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

When you crank the engine, the fuel pump should run all the times. This could be a fuel pump failure.

I attached a wiring diagram of the system for you as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy

1. Depressurize fuel system.
2. Disconnect battery ground cable.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove fuel tank, then fuel sending unit and pump assembly by turning cam lock ring counterclockwise.
5. Lift assembly from fuel tank and remove fuel pump from fuel sending unit.
6. Pull fuel pump up into attaching hose while pulling outward away from bottom support. Take care not to damage rubber insulator and strainer during removal.
7. After pump assembly is clear of bottom support, pull pump assembly out of rubber connector.
8. Reverse procedure to install.

Some 1985 truck models equipped with electric fuel pumps may experience a no run or no start condition and/or a blown fuel pump fuse. This condition may be attributed to an inoperative in tank fuel pump caused by a short in the radio frequency interference (RFI) filter. The RFI filter is located on the electrical input terminals of the fuel pump.

To check the above mentioned complaint, disconnect the three wire connector at the fuel tank and measure the resistance between the two outside wires (black and tan) of the connector. Resistance should be 3-4 ohms. If resistance is not as specified, replace fuel pump with new unit, Part No. 6472311. To further check the system, remove the assembly from fuel tank and measure the resistance of the RFI filter and pump assembly individually. Resistance of the RFI filter should be infinity. If resistance is not as specified, replace filter with new unit, Part No. 6472779. Resistance values for the pump assembly should be as stated above.


*** THIS PROCEDURE HAS BEEN UPDATED BY TSB # 89-T-36, dated 3/89

In order to eliminate the possibility of damage or diminishing longevity of a service replacement fuel pump, it is always necessary to replace the fuel strainer at the same time as replacing of fuel pump.



*** THIS PROCEDURE HAS BEEN UPDATED BY TSB # 86-B-110, dated 8/86

1.Coupled hose assemblies are not to be repaired. If a hose is damaged, it must be replaced as an assembly.
2.Uncoupled fuel lines (3/8" fuel feed - 5/16" return line) that must be replaced have to be made of a Fluroelastomer material instead of a neoprene hose.
3.If a clamped line is opened for service, it must be reassembled with the same type and number of clamps.
4.Stainless steel screw band hose clamps are used on hose/pipe connections which do not have coupler fittings.
5.Do not use copper or aluminum tubing to replace steel tubing.
6.Do not use rubber hose within 4" of the exhaust system or within 10" of the catalytic converter.
7.In repairable areas, cut a piece of fuel hose 4" longer than the portion of the line removed. If more than 6" inch length of pipe is removed, use a combination of steel pipe and hose so that hose lengths will not be more than 10".
8.Cut ends of pipe remaining on car square with a tube cutter. Using the first step of a double flaring tool, form a bead on both ends of the pipe sections. If a pipe is to corroded to withstand bead operation without damage, the pipe should be replaced. If a new pipe is used, form a bead on both ends of it also.
9.Pipes must be properly secured to the frame to prevent chafing.