Door Locks Not Working?

If there are problems on both sides then it sure is possible. lets check the fuses for power.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

I also have the same problem with my 2008 Cheyv Suburban front drivers side and front passenger side door locks. I also have just over 52,000 miles on my vehicle. This seems very odd that both door locks went out within a week of each other.

What was decided with your vehicle?

Thanks,
Micheal

I also had my front driver power lock go out while under warranty. Then a month later (out of warranty) the rear driver side power lock went out. Later the fron passenger door lock went out. I only have one power lock that hasn't stopped working. My cruise control abruptly stopped working as well.

I am having exactly the same issue with my 2008 V4 4WD Suburban. First the rear passenger door lock stopped working and now the driver side is intermittent.

Can anyone say "RECALL"?

I am attaching the wiring diagram. I suspect we just have failing actuators as this was pretty common on these trucks. I would suggest testing power at the actuator and if there is, replace it. Let us know if you need help with this. here is a guide that should help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Electrical problem V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 98,000 miles

My driver door works by pushing the lock/unlock button inside on the driver door only. My key less option works only on the driver door. My front passenger door lock works on the driver door but not on anything else. My rear passenger doors and rear hatch aren't working at all.

The front passenger doors will lock/unlock the driver door, but will not lock/unlock the its self. And again the two rear and rear hatch don't do anything.

Everything points to the body control module or the main switch in the drivers door which all circuits run through. I can't believe you would have 3 bad switches or 3 bad actuators or a combination there of. My cut and paste is down, but if you have access to a fax I can send you a wiring diagram.

Mike, there are 3 different lock systems used in your suburban. One is ruled out because you have remote entry. Narrowing down the remaining two. Do you have a lock switch on the driver's door control that will disable the rear door lock systems? Also, on your keyless remote, if you push the button "once" does it unlock the driver's door only and have to push it again to unlock "all" the doors? It may not work that way now but, is that the way it is supposed to work?
The body control module is under the left side of the dash by the steering column.
Again, if you have access to a fax, I'll send you diagrams so you will know what I'm talking about. It may just be a relay and not the BC module.
One more thing, if you try to lock or unlock the right rear door from the driver's door, do you hear anything from the RR door?

[quote:f4277b5081="James R. Weizel"]Mike, there are 3 different lock systems used in your suburban. One is ruled out because you have remote entry. Narrowing down the remaining two. Do you have a lock switch on the driver's door control that will disable the rear door lock systems? Also, on your keyless remote, if you push the button "once" does it unlock the driver's door only and have to push it again to unlock "all" the doors? It may not work that way now but, is that the way it is supposed to work?
The body control module is under the left side of the dash by the steering column.
Again, if you have access to a fax, I'll send you diagrams so you will know what I'm talking about. It may just be a relay and not the BC module.

One more thing, if you try to lock or unlock the right rear door from the driver's door, do you hear anything from the RR door?[/quote:f4277b5081]

No, there isn't anything on the drivers door to disable the rear locks. As far as the keyless. Yes, pushed once will lock and unlock the driver door. Before the my problem started, yes a second push would unlock the rest of the doors. One other thing it may or may not be cause of the problem, but I was haveing problems with my battery around the time the lock problem started. I have since replaced the battery and no more problem with starting my vehicle. Could there be a problem with the automatic lock needing to be reset? My fax is #360-944-3019. Thanks

Disconnecting the battery will not affect your lock operation. As far as reseting or re-programing the system, the reciever is getting the signal from the remote because it will open the driver's door, so that part is ok. Everything points to a bad BC module. Faxed diagrams are on the way.

Car had door lock issues before we bought it. They thought it was aftermarket remote start. Had that removed now door locks with key fob and button do not work intermittently also when this happens the power seats and mirrors do not work. I changed the three relays for the door and no fix. Need help

Hey there Bud, Did you ever get a fix to this problem? I have one coming to my shop today for the same problem and will let you know the outcome.
David W. Houston, TX / Intensive Care Auto


[quote:848a748774="mike6768"]Electrical problem
2001 Chevy Suburban V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 98,000 miles

2001 Chevy Suburban. My driver door works by pushing the lock/unlock button inside on the driver door only. My keyless option works only on the driver door. My front passenger door lock works on the driver door but not on anything else. My rear passerger doors and rear hatch aren't working at all.[/quote:848a748774]

check battery in remote and take remote to auto parts to see if it works they can check it. wiggle wires in between door and jamb and see if window and mirror work if they do you have wire broken there.

Windows work fine it's mirrors, door locks on fob and buttons on doors and seats don't move. But when buttons work everything else does as well.

my 2001 suburban. replaced window regulator driver rear. shorted out wires going to actuator with nut. blew lock fuse. left dash end. fixed short. removed relays before fixing short. replaced relays, all unlock from pass. and drivers keypad and remote. lock only drivers door all input. so when you stop all doors unlock with no way to lock other than manually. no key rear hatch. unlocked always. I put the relay that controls all the other doors. in upside down. lock all and unlock drivers relays on left of fuse panel. all other doors unlock right of those. note on access panel about this relay. 3 prongs of relay up instead of down. Omron reads upside down. fixed problem. note change only 1 thing at a time. and evaluate. with voltage in lock going to actuator no negative return though unlock relay.

if the buttons on door or seats don't work then it's a button problem. of if they work and windows don't have it scanned for codes it may be a module problem in doors.check the seat circuit breaker for power to seat buttons it is an orange wire and check blak wire under seat for contact and no corrosion. the same wire powers both seats. then check yellow and blue wires under seat. also check for harness hitting seat and grounding out some of these did that and effected other areas. for mirrors if door locks work then fuse is good inside car which is mirror/clk fuse 3a also orange wire supplying power and yellow going to mirror it may be the buttons don't work is the problem. if power goes to mirror then it's the motor in mirrors. but do wiggle test it still could be that for windows and mirrors.

there are 4 fuses with this circuit and 1 jumper. go to autozone for electrical scematic. all contained of the left fuse panel. not sure where jumper is. check all.

Ok when it's working all are working when it goes out they all stop at the same time (door locks, mirrors and seats) when works all buttons work for everything when goes out no buttons for those things work. It is an intermittent problem. All relays and fuses checked and changed to be safe. No blown fuses and relays click like they should. Was thinking maybe actuators but then why seats and mirrors at same time

have a mechanic scan for codes you may have burnt/damaged a module by shorting the wire out I doubt it's a fuse but could be the body control module was damaged. see pic for fuses/relay

do what i said in replies, it may be a broken wire between door and jamb for seats check wiring harness like i said under the seat

no it may be the key fob auto parts can check to see if they are working otherwise a mechanic has to scan the system for codes to find the problem.

My remote door lock/unlock does not work. The remotes are good, I had them checked. What modular controls the door locks? I even reprogrammed the locks and they still do not work.

The body control module controls all that.How did you try reprogramming the remotes?

My door locks will not operate. The relay clicks and the lights flash on the outside and the horn activates, but the doors will not lock. It started when it was a rainy day, and it corrected itself when I turned the front and rear heater on high and let it cook for an 1/2 hour. But after a wet day the problem returned. Now the heat wot help it! I replaced all the relays and pulled apart all the plugs and lubed them w/ switch grease. I checked all the fuses. How much does the Body Control Module play a role in this circuit? I am at wits end... almost! Please reply.

H
BCM does it all but if your sure the relay clicks then BCM is doing it's job. Can you lock doors from master panel? Will key unlock the doors?
Let me know
Thanks for donate

The key will unlock the door, but when you try any door including the drivers control, all you hear is the relay click. When you push the lock on the key remote, the horn beeps and the lights flash, but no lock.

O. K. as I understand not able to lock doors via key or master control but relay clicks, horn etc.
Need OHM meter pull lock relay find terminal # 30 probe then, may need to unbolt fuse block, find two Gray/ black wires probably next to each other. Place other probe on one of them What does it read?
If open then wire faulty .

Thanks i will try this and let you know, can you send me a wiring diagram?

The swith to lock and unlock the doors will not work on the driver or passenger side. The remote will work for the door locks but not the interior switch. Also half of the lighted station numbers on the factory radio are out. I checked the fuses, they're all ok except the 20amp for the transfer case keeps blowing. I'm not quite sure whats the problem.

Hi:
First, you need to have the driver's side switch checked. It feeds power to all. Next, to repair the lights on the radio, you will need to take it to a stereo shop to have it taken apart and repaired. Finally, the it sounds lilke you either have a short going to the transfer case or the actuator motor is bad. Disconnect the plug to the transfer case and see if it still blows the fuse. If it does, you have a short. If it doesn't, there is a problem in the actuator.

Joe

I have 94 2500 suburban 6.5 TD. The vehical Runs great. Starts right up and batteries are new. When every i hit any accessory other then the radio my guages al drop off, my glow plugs light up, Rear wiper turns on. It almost seems like the unit isnt getting enough power. for example if headlights are on or blower fan is on low, my power window seem to have little to no power to for up and down. Door locks wont work either. If i put my blower on medium or high it dims out and turns off and once off it comes back lit up. Do you suspect a faulty ground to the fuse box or maybe an ECM or ignition Switch. Thanks For you Help.

Hi there,

I think you are right on the money with this one, i would be checking over all the earthing points, make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight, start here.

mark (mhpautos)