Replacement brake lines

that will affect brake pressure you should replace this line with the same size that came off. this video will show you how to make your own lines.

https://youtu.be/sO43p4ZFUiM

and

https://youtu.be/w7gUsj2us0U

Please run down these guides and report back.

I have a 2000 Silverado, while replacing a rotted brake line from master cylinder to ABS module all of the front lines desintergrated above frame. I cannot tell which line ran to which port. I need to know brake line routing for the 4 brake lines from front of vehicle to ABS module. Fifth line to rear is no problem, (upper right, if looking from front of module) as it is already replaced. Thanks for any info.
Rick

Here is what ALLDATA gives us. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

I have the 1500 model. I replaced all the brake lines and do not know the order the lines go to the the brake pressure box that is under the pick up. can you please send me a picture of the order it go in? thank you

Need to know the order the brake line's go in.

However, most of the lines will have different fitting sizes. If you are careful when you put the lines to the ABS unit they should go to each hole correctly if you used factory lines. If you have a mirror you might look for an F or R stamped in the ABS unit. Hope the diagram is helpful.

Thanks

V8 four wheel drive automatic 94,000 miles.

while replacing a rotted brake line from master cylinder to ABS module all of the front lines disintegrated above frame. I cannot tell which line ran to which port. I need to know brake line routing for the four brake lines from front of vehicle to ABS module. Fifth line to rear is no problem, (upper right, if looking from front of module) as it is already replaced. Thanks for any information.
Rick

I cannot find any diagrams of that for you in my software. Are two out of the four different in size? Maybe try looking at another truck like yours.

Hi rjvries,

I have to replace my brake lines from the front of the ABS unit because they have rusted where they leak. I was told by a repair shop they wanted $95.00/hour to do this. I am a instrument repair guy and have bent miles of copper, ss, steel impulse lines. So I bought the tubing $30.00, tools $150.00, fittings $20.00 and I am ready to kink some tube! I will draw a diagram of what the routing is and post it. I am spreading this job over two weeks. Remember good work takes time.

I also had to replace the front brake lines because one failed and the others were ready to fail.
I made a sketch of the junction block on the drivers side near mid vehicle.

Looking from vehicle front to rear, here is the layout:
There are three connections along the top. From left to right, the connections are front left wheel, front right wheel, and the connector near left rear wheel that serves both rear wheels. The bottom two connections go to the master cylinder. The left connection goes to the rear master cylinder connection and the right connection goes to the front master cylinder connection.

Good luck, this is not a fun job.
Remember that the end flare connections to the vehicle must be double flares.

To kayak11, thank you very much for the posting. I had to do the same job and it helped in the end. For those of you doing this job. do not use steel line, if possible use copper or have custom stainless steel lines done. Also, plan on raising the cab off the frame by 1 1/2 inches on the left. Also raise the bed three inches as well. This will make it easier to route the lines by the frame. The stainless steel lines were custom bent and little difficult to run but in the end it is well worth it. Have fun!

too much hassle just go to the dealer and buy the lines you need. they can give you a diagram and it shows you where it hooks up. if it was one line i would try and fix it but not the whole system. maybe at a salvage yard. Never use copper tubing as it may have a reaction with the slightly corrosive nature of the brake fluid, but most important wont be able to handle the pressure in a braking system, especially one with ABS

my lines going from the abs unit up to the 2 front brakes are rusting away , i want to buy a coil of steel brake line and replace them , i cant tell if there 1/4" or 3/16" ? or some thing else, they are to rusted to get an accurate measurement ,
thanks,
scott

Unless you have the proper tools to bend the pipe and form the end fitting, I would recommend buying replacement lines. They are usually 3/16". My reference doesn't list this spec.

i have a tubing bender and double flair tool, thanks for the response

No problem. Most pro parts stores sell the tubing ready to go, you just need to bend it.

does the gas tank have to be removed to get to the brake line and connections to the rear brakes? i have a line leaking and can only barely see it between the frame and the gas tank

i find it easiest to take off the bed. easier to route it and hook it up and untatch it other then taking down the rusted tank straps or messing around fishing with the lines.

Brakes problem
1995 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I'm replacing rusted brake line from the rear to the front. Is there anyway to find out what lengths of line I need. I'm a big guy so once I get on the ground under the truck I want to have the line already. The line goes from the axle up to the bottom of the firewall at the front of the truck. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, P.
Oh, my truck has extended cab and 8 foot bed.

You will have to get under there and measure it.
To at least get a close idea.

Straight line comes in 5-6' large sections and as small as 1'.

You will need a tubing bender and several unions to connect sections.

DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS ON BRAKE LINES.

There is a web site inlinetube.com that sells pre-bent complete sections in either steel or stainless.
Sets usually run $150-200 and this would be the easiest way to replace, since they are direct OEM replacements.

Hi on my truck (Silverado k1500) the left rear brake line has a pin hole in it. The line is rusted. I want to buy a roll of brake line but I don’t know what to get. Should I get Polyvinyl Fluoride brake line or should I get Nickel/Copper Brake? My other question is the line that is rusted sits right by the gas tank. The only way I see to change it is to take the gas tank out or take the bed off. is there a way to get to it without having to take the bed off or tank out? Thanks.

Hello my name is Dave.

I would recommend using the nickle/copper as it is resistant to corrosion. As far as getting to the section of brake line that the fuel tank is in the way of getting to, to be honest if it were mine and not a customers I wouldn't bother removing that section of the old line and just find a well protected alternative route for the new one. If you are going to use bulk line you are going to need flare the lines, keep in mind it is required for safety to double flare the ends. If you are not sure how to do this if you buy a double flare tool it will come with instructions. I hope this has been helpful and thank you for using 2CarPros.

Brakes problem 1989 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic I have a proportioning valve that has a brake line inlet that has a stripped thread and cannot be rethreaded. So I have obtained a second hand one but it is different in appearance. The one that came out of the truck has a number on it FF 21 KH 1509 and has two valves at each end and the second hand one has numbers FD 22 KH 2997 on it and only has one valve at one end.

Is the valve with the letters FD suitable for this truck.

Ok with it looking different I would say no it probably isn't the same. Also you mention on truck has 2 and the other has one this is also going to make it different. So tell me what year is the used one out of?

[quote:0126d2c0ab="racefan966"]Ok with it looking different I would say no it probably isn't the same. Also you mention on truck has 2 and the other has one this is also going to make it different. So tell me what year is the used one out of?[/quote:0126d2c0ab]

The vehicle dismantler does not know what year the item was remove from and has told me it is out of K/C Series 1988 to 1990 model. Thats all I could get out of him.
The main question is will the Valve with the FD on it do the job.

If they look different as you are discribing then no they will not interchange.

I am trying to find out what this part is for. I have two lines going into my proportion valve. From there one of the lines goes into another device before heading to my rear brakes. that is the one I have no idea what it does. Can you help me?

Dump valve for rear-wheel-anti-lock brakes.

Really?! This must be faulty because I have never felt this kick in when hitting breaks. I have locked em up on ice this winter. No anti lock kicked in. Could this be the reason I cannot bleed my breaks? I have tampered with the combination valve trying to reset it. I believe I did but my brake light is still on in the dash. Next I am going to try and bleed my master cylinder. Hopefully after that things will bleed. Now I am thinking this dump valve needs replacing.

Four-wheel systems have multiple valves that block additional fluid flow when a wheel slows down too quickly, then, if it does not pick up speed, another valve bleeds off fluid pressure, then, once the speed catches up to the other wheels, a third valve opens to apply stored pressurized fluid. That "block, bleed, apply" sequence occurs 15 times per second. Chrysler controls all four wheels independently. GM uses a similar system but they combine the two rear wheels and just use a three-channel system. If either rear wheel skids, braking pressure is reduced to both rear wheels. During braking, the computer finds the wheel that is rotating the slowest, and modulates its brake pressure if its speed drops below a certain percentage of the fastest wheel's speed.

RWAL, (rear-wheel-abs) works differently. When the rear axle slows down too quickly, brake fluid is blocked, and if more reduction is needed, fluid is bled off. There is no apply circuit and no brake fluid stored under pressure. The apply comes from the brake pedal. As a result, as the system pulses to bleed fluid pressure, the brake pedal will gradually sink. The hope is the truck will come to a stop before the pedal hits the floor.

The important point to understand is a skidding tire has no traction. The purpose of four-wheel-abs is to maintain steering control. The purpose of RWAL systems is to prevent the rear of the truck from trying to pass the front due to loss of rear traction while braking. You will not notice the pulsing pedal and buzzing noise with your system. Also, anti-lock systems do not do their thing below a minimum speed. That is commonly around 15 mph. The other big difference is there is no reference to determine if the rear wheels are slowing too much. The computer only watches the rate of speed decrease relative to time. If the skidding occurs over a prolonged period of time, say four or five seconds, that is long enough for the computer to assume the truck has come to a stop, and it stops running the dump valve. That is why you can still observe skidding tires. And remember, there is no abs action on the front wheels, so those can be locked up any time.

RWAL systems are bled as though they were not even there. There is nothing to activate and no valves to open with a scanner.

You have not listed any history or why you are working on this system. The pressure-differential switch in the combination valve turns the red "Brake" warning light on, along with the parking brake pedal switch, and, if used, a low-fluid level switch in the brake fluid reservoir. To know for sure if the pressure-differential switch is tripped, unplug the wire going to it. That switch is extremely frustrating to reset on Ford products. On Chrysler's and GM's it is spring-loaded and will center itself. Sometimes they stick though, then a good hard jab to the brake pedal will get them broken free once the cause for it tripping has been repaired. The combination valve will not affect bleeding or operation of the brake system.

A common cause of failure to be able to bleed at the rear wheels is the truck is on a hoist and the rear axle is hanging down. Most trucks and minivans have a rear height-sensing proportioning valve to limit the increase in brake fluid pressure under hard braking to prevent easy rear-wheel lock-up. Trucks and minivans can have a wide range of loading with passengers and loads, so the proportioning valve cannot be tailored to the specific vehicle like it can with cars. When the truck is lifted with the rear axle hanging down, it looks to the height-sensing proportioning valve like the truck is very lightly loaded, and little brake fluid pressure should go to the rear wheels. The restricted fluid path can make it hard to bleed that circuit.

I need to know what type of rear brake line i need on my truck on the passenger side. They are drum brakes the line is shaped like an s and it the typr you bend. I was wondering also where i can get that type of line. thank you

Hi:
Most parts stores will have what you need. It is a steel line, but the exact size differ from year to year, model to model. Take the old brake line with you and they will measure it. To bend it to shape, you will need a pipe bender so it doesn't collapse.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe