1993 Chevy Silverado Bogging severely

1993 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
97,700 MILES • 6 CYL • 4WD • MANUAL
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The truck is bogging something fierce.

Seems that the bog is at it's worse when the RPMs are between 1200 - 2200. Sometimes when the traffic lights turn green when sitting there, I will give it gas and seems that there was a blip of power then gone and comes back which results in me slamming my head into my steering wheel haha (Truck doesn't shut off). When I'm in overdrive, I can hardly make it up a small hill, sometimes same case scenario in 3rd gear. When in 3rd or overdrive, the truck would shake bad. Now that I have a new exhaust system in, it doesn't shake as bad. Probably ran harder because of the header pipe leak. Not sure if it's coincidence but when it's really cold out and I left it outside for the night, the bogging is at it worse. Leaving it a warm garage seems to work for a little bit then gets worse. In that case, is there some gaskets to look at?

There are times where it works perfect for a while though. So ofcourse when I bring it into a shop, they can't always figure it out because the issue doesn't reoccur for them.

I also noticed wayyyyy to much gas in the air cleaner. Pretty bad when the gas makes my air filter stick where I almost have to pry it out.

Here is the list of stuff I have already changed or replaced:

NEW PARTS
Had the truck scanned. Nothing showed up.
Put in a new Throttle Positioning Sensor.
Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel Filter
EGR Valve
A Couple of New Hoses
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Cap
Rotor
Full Distributor
Fuel Pressure Regulator (probably wrong name for it)
New Computer PLUS new Prom for it.
Complete Exhaust System (Header pipe to Tail pipe)
New MAP Sensor

TESTED GOOD AND CLEANED
O2 Sensor Read Fine
Tested Backpresser which was fine
Tested Fuel Pressure
Test Injectors which checked out good.
Adjusted Timing so that's correct
Soaked the plug wires and no changes.
Ground to Fuel Pump
Ground under Thermostat

When the issue occurs the check engine light never pops on. If it did, I might have considered Map Sensor. Also when I drive down the road in overdrive, sometimes it runs fine. Not great but good enough. Then out of no where it feels like I lost 40HP. There are frequent times where im in 3rd gear or overdrive and the truck shakes like I lost am losing spark.

I'm pretty sure I missed a couple of things but if anybody else has some other ideas, that would be awesomeeeee. I dropped like 2 grand or more only because of this issue. Most of which was due to hours at the mechanics. Even brought this straight the GM thinkin they have this issue on record. Guess not. I seen a lot of the same types of issues on other forums with this truck in general but ofcourse if someone fixed theirs, they never came back to the forum to tell you what fixed it. Haha.

Oh yeah, My vehicle specs
93' Chevy Silverado
k1500 4.3L Throttle Body
4X4

Sorry for the long post, haha. Thank you!
Jan 11, 2010 at 5:28 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The first thing I thought was a plugged catylatic converter, but you replaced that. My next thoughts are the mass air flow sensor or the temp sensor. However, they should have kicked a check engine light. I didn't see either on your list. Did you replace them?
Jan 11, 2010 at 11:07 PM
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Well my truck doesn't have a MAS considering it's throttle body. I checked into that in one of the books I got for the truck when I was trying to locate one.

I did change the coolant sensor, which was one of the first things I looked at but didn't fix the issue then. That was about a year ago.

This has been a long issue, haha.

Some other asked about my manifold maybe having a vacuum issue. But I would think that the truck would be decently loud and the issue would be constant even at idle. Seems that the truck is fine when it was in a warm garage. But getting outside in the cold for a couple minutes changes everything. Usually starting in the cold has the issue almost right away also. Could also just be coincidence.
Jan 12, 2010 at 9:14 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I looked at the year and read it as 98. The 4.3L in the early 90's had a common issue with intake gaskets. I would spend some time rechecking that.
Jan 12, 2010 at 1:02 PM
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When I brought it into GM they said they checked for vacuum leaks and all. They never did mention gaskets or anything. I suppose I could recheck the gaskets then. Do you know which ones had the most common problems maybe?
Jan 12, 2010 at 1:54 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The rear of the intake gasket. Do you have a vacuum gauge? If so, check manifold vacuum from any of the intake ports.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
Jan 12, 2010 at 8:10 PM
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Well I got a little daring and just sprayed some carb cleaner around the gaskets to see if I could get a burst of idle. Nothing.

Sooooo I just bought a full throttle body. Was noly about 65 bucks and looks to be in better shape than mine. So this weekend I'm going to work on installing that.

Honestly after this I can't see it being anything else haha. The last few days I couldnt even my truck over 55mph and it shakes quite a bit. So I don't think it's anything electrical (ground wise). Still cant see it being a fuel pump since it's pumping too much gas out. Figured the new fuel pressure regulator would hand that issue if it was one.

So when I have that installed.. I'll let you know if it fixed it or not :)
Jan 14, 2010 at 7:52 PM
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Still a no go. Still has that terrible shaking bog at 45 mph on 3rd gear. overdrive is even worse. Sometimes when it hits that bog now, it stays.. even at a stop.

Here I will update everything I have changed.

NEW PARTS
Had the truck scanned. Nothing showed up.
Put in a new Throttle Positioning Sensor.
Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel Filter
EGR Valve
A Couple of New Hoses
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Cap
Rotor
Coil
MAP Sensor
Full Distributor
Fuel Pressure Regulator (probably wrong name for it)
New Computer PLUS new Prom for it.
Complete Exhaust System (Header pipe to tail pipe)
Fuel Injectors
Thermostat
Coolant Sensor
Throttle Body
Idle Sensor
New gerbils on a wheel to charge my battery....

TESTED GOOD AND CLEANED
O2 Sensor Read Fine
Tested Backpresser which was fine
Tested Fuel Pressure
Test Injectors which checked out good. (new injectors now listed above..)
Adjusted Timing so that's correct
Soaked the plug wires and no changes.
Sprayed carb cleaner around the manifold. No jump in idle. (Unless I'm spraying int he wrong spots...)
Checked all possible grounds.

The one thing I haven't checked yet is the ESC (Electronic Spark Controller I believe). Honestly, I couldn't tell you what else could be doing this. The issue seems to get worse and worse slowly.

I did spray the manifold with carb cleaner to see if the engine's idle would kick up. Nothing.
Jan 15, 2010 at 7:20 PM
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Someone from another forum mentioned if the timing chain was lose but it isn't.

The only thing I haven't tried yet was maybe getting new o-rings for the fuel lines that go into the throttle body and possibly getting a new ESC (Electronic spark control I believe)
Jan 16, 2010 at 6:32 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Okay, it sounds like you have rebuilt the car. The ESC could be a problem, but I would think it would have set and engine code. I, like you, am really starting to get confused and I've done this for nearly 30 years.

I am going to ask for the recommendations of another tech that is excellent. AS far as the timing chain, it could be loose and having an affect on the timing, but why doesn't it do it all of the time (In all of the gears)?

Let me ask and see what he says before you spend anymore time or money.
Have you checked the crank sensor? I just read through your list before I sent this. Make sure it is clean and tight if you haven't already.
I'll be in touch.

Joe
Jan 16, 2010 at 11:12 PM
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Well it bogs all of the time. There are times where it runs good though. When all of this first started it wasn't really that bad.. you could feel it but eh. That was about a year ago. Just sees that the longer I have this issue, the worse it's become.

Don't think I have checked a crank sensor. Not really sure this truck actually has this sensor. I suppose I could check and see. I'll hold off and see what you come up with. Thank you for your patients :).
Jan 17, 2010 at 12:16 AM
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Is it possible that a fuel pump could pump too much gas then? I figured the fuel pressure regulator would control that but I dunno.

I just don't get where it seems like it bogs the most between 1200 - 2200 RPM. When giving it more can, it feels I might have more power if I just let it off where the injectors don't kick in to give it more gas. There have been times where the truck will start shakin pretty bad when driving and then hitting a stop light it will shake. Then giving it gas from that point basically almost kills the truck.

I started off not really knowing about vehicles besides the oil and brakes...and the occasional alternator stuff haha. Now I damn near know how a vehicle works between all of these parts. haha.
Jan 17, 2010 at 5:41 PM
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Yes, it is possible for the engine to get too much gas. I've been thinking about this problem. Have you ever had a gut feeling? The more I think of it, I feel you have a vacuum leak. I realize you checked, the dealer checked... However, you have replaced just about everything. Think about it. THe car runs rough at idle and boggs when you give it gas. When you open the throttle plate on the throttle body, you allow more air to enter the engine. WHen you let off the gas, it gains more power. Either you are getting too much air or NOT enough gas. You checked fuel pump pressure, it's good, new regulator, filter... Something tells me there is a vacuum leak. You're most likely ready to tell me to go to *&^%, but if you have good spark, compression, timing, and fuel pressure, that is the only thing I can think of that would cause this type of problem.

Let me know what you think.

Joe
Jan 17, 2010 at 10:43 PM
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Haha that's what I was always thinking.. was vacuum leak. But I sprayed the manifold with carb cleaner.. unless I sprayed in the wrog spots.. Figured if there was a vacuum leak.. that would have kicked the idle up.
Jan 17, 2010 at 10:54 PM
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I been on 6 other forums and nobody can figure it out... if you could lead me in the correct places maybe where to spray even.. cuz i dont really know. and I find one.. i will be definitely donating more haha. So no.. I'm not telling you to get %#$#^# but i'm pretty damn close to tell my truck to get %R$#%%. haha.
Jan 17, 2010 at 10:56 PM
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That is a good one...(LOL). It's hard to help from far away. I'm trying to do the best I can, so bear with me.

As far as leaks, check all around the intake, vacuum hoses, at the base of the throttle body, anywhere you can see vacuum hoses.

Please be careful. Remember the product you are spraying is very flamable. If it hits a hot enough spot, it can catch fire. I've already had 6 foot flames by accidentally hitting the exhaust manifold. Just be aware and have a fire extinguisher near by. It can scare the &%^$ out of you.

Let me know.

Joe
Jan 17, 2010 at 11:03 PM
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haha did that the first time. I was spraying carb cleaner on the manifold.. with my buddy carrying an extinguisher... not sure if he knew how to use it though. I'll give her a shot tomorrow morning though.. maybe be better if i back it out of the garage to give it that cold start in the morning then.
Jan 17, 2010 at 11:40 PM
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Well I just talked to my dad about this. This used to be his truck and he told me that the brake system is vacuum also. So if it was a leak... then the brakes might be acting up.. but they seem fine.. I don't know. I'll still test tomorrow
Jan 17, 2010 at 11:51 PM
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Has anyone gotten back with you? Also, verify the airway is clear to the TBI (no mouse nest) Also, have you had a chance to check intake vacuum?

I've been thinking about this and it is driving me crazy. Also, if you have a vacuum gauge, run a long hose to the inside of the car so you can watch it while you are driving.

JOe
Jan 20, 2010 at 8:41 PM
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Well I tested with carb cleaner.. even around the brake system vacuum area. I don't have a vacuum gauge or anything. Not sure where to hook one up if I got one. How much is a vacuum gauge?

Well I put in a new throttle body.. looked clean to me before I installed it.
Jan 20, 2010 at 9:13 PM
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The vacuum gauge could be plugged into any vacuum port on the intake. Many parts store will lend or rent them.
Jan 21, 2010 at 6:59 AM
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Haven't tested for vacuum yet.. was pretty busy and will be today also. I did notice how different the truck runs when it was like 40 outside vs today when it was just 5 for the high. Almost immediate bog and definitely terrible shake to it. Didn't do it too bad on the way to work considering it was in a warm garage overnight. Figured id give you an update haha.
Jan 26, 2010 at 3:40 PM
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HAs anyone contacted you?
Jan 27, 2010 at 11:18 PM
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I was able to borrow a vacuum gauge but only used it when it was parked. Checked out fine.. but never tried it while driving.. need a longer hose for that.
Jan 27, 2010 at 11:53 PM
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I gotta figure out how to test half of these things.. maybe I have a short somewhere and frying stuff up.. it was kind of backfiring today when i was giving it gas. I know it was getting enough air.. considering the aircleaner was off
Jan 27, 2010 at 11:58 PM
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what is the fuel pressure? At least 50psi is what we want...also unplug EGR and test drive it.
Jan 28, 2010 at 3:31 PM
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Didnt see IAC on the list, test it this way: Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor 1. Disconnect harness connector to motor. Check resistance across IAC coil terminals "A" to "B" and "C" to "D". See Fig. 5 . Resistance should be 40-80 ohms. If okay, go to next step. If resistance is not as specified, replace IAC motor. 2. Check resistance between IAC terminals "B" to "C" and "A" to "D". Resistance should be infinite. If resistance is not as specified, replace IAC motor. NOTE: Functional testing of Idle Air Control (IAC) motor requires a scan tester capable of cycling ECM output devices (bidirectional) or a special IAC Driver and Node Light Set (222L or J-37027). Flow charts in TESTS W/CODES articles in this section may refer to Tech 1 tester, General Motors' bidirectional tester. Page 1 of 1 1/28/2010 ...


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_iac_3.jpg

Jan 28, 2010 at 3:54 PM
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So. I did a compression type check. I wanted to check that timing chain again. So I took a socket with a long bar and spun the alternator so it would spin everything else. I noticed when i spun it slow for a good bit the router on the distributor didnt move. It eventually started to move. Isn't that supposed to move instantly when i turn the engine? If so... im assuming the timing chain is lose.

If that's the case.. I'm going to spend the weekend on ripping all of that apart and putting a new one in.. and probably even fix my oil leak and for the hell of it put a new water pump in, haha.
Feb 8, 2010 at 2:45 AM
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MERLIN2021
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First, dodnt spin the motor via the alternator pulley, get down on the crankshaft...belts can slip...turning the crank insures that the timing chain will turn the cam. If the distributor doesnt move then, you either have slack in the chain, or a bad gear on the distributor/cam...
Feb 9, 2010 at 2:04 AM
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Oh I made sure th engine was turning. I had my buddy tell me when the engine fan was turning while I watched the distributor. They were way off. Well I dont think the distributor would be bad since it's brand new. I don't know about the camshaft though. Im hoping it's the chain.
Feb 9, 2010 at 9:35 AM
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Put the crank at TDC and see if the #1 piston is also at TDC, and rotor in the distributor is ready to fire plug#1...
Feb 10, 2010 at 12:58 PM
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Yep made sure that I did that before putting the distributor.. I found a piece of lath and marked on the firewall where the rotor was at... Would it even run if they were all off? Dont think it would start.

But yeah startin tomorrow I'm going to get a new timing chain and rip apart everything.. So hopefully I can come back with good news at the end of all this haha.
Feb 11, 2010 at 11:40 PM
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Ok, you have a manual for help? Timing marks?
Feb 12, 2010 at 3:00 PM
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Ok well here's the update. I just finished installing the new timing chain.. also fixed my major oil leak which was in the cap that covers the timing chain and while I was at it changed the water pump. Put it all together.. unplugged the wire to start timing the engine.. was a little off so got it where it should be.. turned off the engine and plugged the wire in, everything WORKED.

Took a test drive to the grocery store.. left it in third gear to see if I could hit 70... Bogged like hell.. VERYYY DISAPPOINTED.. haha. That was a lot of work. It runs a bit smoother now with the newer parts but blah.. Only thing I haven't touched yet is the fuel pump... other than that.. I think I have changed every single thing in this truck besides the engine and other things that dont deal with air/fuel system.... Blah.
Feb 15, 2010 at 4:26 PM
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It also did the usual jump when it was slowing down... was jerkin around quite a bit.
Feb 15, 2010 at 4:51 PM
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Sounds like the distributor itself, check for sideplay on the shaft. If you have a dwell meter see if the dwell changes more than 3 degress when engine revs to 2500-3000 RPM, if it does, replace distrib. Any backfire thru the intake?
Feb 15, 2010 at 7:00 PM
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Not sure.. I never heard backfire from the exhaust but feels like a pop or whatever from the front end. I dunno how it could be distributor when that's brand new haha. I replaced that whole thing.
Feb 15, 2010 at 7:24 PM
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Do you think if I hooked up the vacuum gauge it would show a backfire in it?
Feb 15, 2010 at 7:26 PM
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I mean backfire or poping in the throtlle body area up front, or from the muffler. I will send a PDF on vacuum gauge testing, it can help find any worn engine parts.
Feb 16, 2010 at 3:56 PM
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Yes it does that. Only when I'm driving with the gas down. Seems when I hit a higher rpm is when it will do it the most. Noticed I was almost able to recreate the popping when Im in 3rd gear trying to go between 60 - 70 mph.. then it bogs bad, slows down.. when I give it more gas it pops in the throttle body.
Feb 16, 2010 at 4:50 PM
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I read up on some stuff from 2carpro's site, one of the tutorials on backfiring. One thing I haven't cahnged yet that they mention coudld cause the intake backfires is the fuel pump which is the only thing I haven't changed yet. Other than that, I have literally changed everything that deals with air/fuel......
Feb 16, 2010 at 4:52 PM