changing transmission fluid

Do you have a transmission fluid level indicator (dipstick)? If so:
https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/transmission_service.htm

I recently ourchased vehicle,so I was changing filter in automatic transmission. I put in 4Quarts of Valvoline ATF+4 fluid,that I had in my garage.After checking,I discovered that I had used the wrong fluid. Will Valvoline ATF+4 damage the transmission.If so how many times will I have to drain the fluid and add correct fluid to correct. I have not driven vehicle since.Have let it idle about 30 minutes. Thanks Ken

I would say that the volume of fluid that you added, would be diluted enough by the fluid that was still in the transmission, that it wouldn't cause a problem. I am not sure what the properties of valvoline +4 transmission fluid are. You could probably drain it once, add the correct fluid(dexron 3 or equivalent). If you read the back of the valvoline bottle, does it state any specifics on use?

The ATf+4 bottle states that it is specificaly for late model Chrysler.I used it as it was left over from when I changed the filter in my 2005 Dodge Caravan.The ATf+4 replaces ATF+3 which stated it was Dexron 3 compatable.According to the product information it is pretty similar,except the ATF+4 contains Calcium-Phosphorus and Boron that is not in DexMerc.I do plan on draining it and using the DexMerc or the Maxlife,as the vehicle has 80,000 miles.

You should be fine, especially if ATF+3 was compatible with Dex 3, and ATF+4 replaces +3.

I dropped the pan today and refilled with 4 quarts of Dex/Merc just to be on the safe side.

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my trucks start missing gears. it would rev up like it was in nuetral but then it would catch and go.. when the truck got hotter it shifted better.. I had started losing fluid. so I put some in it seemed better. but when I drove it today about 6 miles and stopped my tranny fluid started spraying everywhere in a massive puddle.. so I put more in and tried to drive home real quick but my truck wouldn't move. would only work in nuetral and had to be pushed. any idea what is wrong

first fix the leak so it won't spray anymore then put fluidin trans so it will work right,but don't be surprised if it goes bad right away.

today i added more transmission fluid and the car still didnt move. i jacked up the rear and the wheels were spinning with it on PARK.But the driveline wasnt spining.. Then i started put it into gear and it only went up to 20 MPH then decreases speed while still on jack stands.. Im guessing it is the differential that is the problem. But why does it only go 20 MPH when a few days earlier i tested it while on jack stands and it worked fine. any suggestions?

if your fluid is full then your transmission should spin the dirveshaft. if it doesn't then it's a trans problem. A rear end when it breaks it usually makes a lot of noise.

i had just bought a new used trans. and while it was on jack stands it shifted fine. but once i put it on the ground it didnt move.so i put it on jack stands again and it only goes up to 20 MPH and the wheels dont spin on its own when in drive... could it be that i have to reset the computer?? bad codes?? or bad solenoids??

if you got a used transmission it is hard to say what if anything was wrong with it to begin with. If it only goes 20 mph on the jack stands there is eitehr something seriously wrong with the trans or it's the incorrect transmission. You would need to get the vehicle scanned to see if there are any codes or not. Just because it works on the jack stand doesn't mean it will work on the ground. Clutches may slip, seals may be bad, etc. a pro should really give you a proper diagnosis on this. there could be a combination of things causing this.

I have a 96 S-10 pickup that has been handed down to me and has 101,000 miles.

The truck currently has a long upshift and a slip in 4th gear. I'm prepped to drop the pan, replace the filter, and put in some new fluid, but I'm concerned that a less-than-stellar maintenance record could cause me more tranny problems.

What I do know about previous maintenance is that the fluid was "evacuated" (sucked out through the fluid reservoir with no pan removal and no fliter replacement) at 47,000 miles. The fluid is pretty dark and I'd assume it's got that oh-so-lovely burnt smell.

Assuming worst case scenario of a transmission filter with 101,000 miles and fluid with 54,000 miles, am I just asking for problems by dropping the pan and replacing the filter and fluid?

I'll gladly perform the proper operation you recommend to get the maximum life out of the existing tranny.

Thanks!

Hi there,

i feel that you have nothing to loose, if the oil is burnt the filter will be fairly thick with muck by now, changing the oil & filter wont be a miracle cure but it may prolong it a bit longer, doing nothing will only enhance the problem, your transmission is just wearing out, so sooner or later it will require so serious attention, the lack of proper maintenance is the real problem.

mark (mhpautos)

So it's safe to say that the muck within the fluid is not holding things together? I've read the friction from the "muck" is what allows it to shift now...and replacing with new less-viscous fluid could only exacerbate the problem.

Thanks again,

Frank

Hi there,

If the muck is all that is holding it together you do have a problem, in all my years as a service tech, over 35 now, i have never had a transmission lay down and die after changing the oil & filter.

mark (mhpautos)

'96 S10, 4x2, auto trans w/overdrive, 126,000 miles.

Have problem with trans not staying in, or not going into O.D. Added trans fluid 3 weeks ago, fixed it after a few miles. Happened again 2 days ago, added fluid, still wouldn't go into O.D., and won't today.

Truck also has 235, r75 x 15 tires which rub on turning far left or right. I think they're too big. ??

is your check enging light on....if so go get the codes read then tell us what the codes are

The codes said 1 solenoid out, cat. converter out or soon out.

the solinoids are cheep anuff to replace booth of them at the same time and wile your in there replace the filter too.....was the code fore bank sensor 1- 2 or 3....if its a down stream sensor 3 the 02 sensor might be bad, dose the exhaust smell like rotting eggs? if not it could be the 02 sensor

I have a 1993 chevy blazer,4.3 L vortec engine with electronic 4wd and 200,000miles. My transmission went out and i replaced with another one from a blazer with 70,000miles and also adjusted the shift linkage but after spending all that money the truck wont move at all, all fluids levels are good and am wondering what could be wrong with it? whats the work of the throttle valve on the transmission?

Hi Ben first off do you no the history of the truck you received the new transsmision from. Second when the transmission went out what happened, did it go all at once or did you have signs of on coming failure. Example a possible noise before it went did the truck jurk or was the trans slipping in one or more of the gears. We have to find out if your having actual trans problems or not. Let me no Richard

Let me know.

Hi Ben first off do you no the history of the truck you received the new transsmision from. Second when the transmission went out what happened, did it go all at once or did you have signs of on coming failure. Example a possible noise before it went did the truck jurk or was the trans slipping in one or more of the gears. We have to find out if your having actual trans problems or not.

Let me no

Richard

Let me know.