my engine stalls at idle?

it sounds like you have a vacuum leak but to be sure lets run down these guides

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.

I had a vacuum leak at the throttle body the guide helped me thank you.

you are welcome

1992 Chevy S10 4.3 manu. trans, TBI, 180-thou. miles. Is there "any" way to test an ECM ?

Clean and test the idle air control valve and also the EGR valve-CEL on?

Replaced parts; IAC-(cracked at wire harness), EGR-(& vac lines)-control sol. for EGR (broke off nipple trying to pry off vac hose), (normal winter tune up parts follows)- distrib cap, rotor cap, wires, air-oil-fuel filters-(with oil change), pulled intake-new gasket set-(vac leak at back of motor) ! Checked both EGR & IAC ports for carbon build-up...VERY clean ! Getting codes #33-34 (multiple cyclinder miss-fire), & it won't idle. Easy to start- runs like $hit, stinks of raw fuel, once it gets to running temp it won't idle & stalls. I am want to know "how" to test (if there is such a thing?) the ECM !

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

You can bring it in to an auto parts store and have the computer checked out or the dealership-

THANK YOU !

4x4 starts but shuts off as soon as you let off the gas.

This sounds like you have a vacuum leak or the IAC valve is gummed up or not working here are two guides to help you see whats going on and fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back

Cheers

I had this problem it was the throttle body gasket that was blown. FYI

I just replaced my slave cylinder and it won’t start again. I’m going to be replacing my EGR valve.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

When it starts, are you able to keep it running if you hit the throttle?

Take a look through this link and see if anything helps. Also, let me know if anything else was done. For example, was fuel pressure tested, have you checked for vacuum leaks, has the catalytic converter been checked for plugging, and so on. Anything you can think of that may help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Let me know.

Joe

The motor started and ran great towards the completion of this restoration project. The motor was not started again for a couple of months while other work was being done. When attempted, it would start and then die after 4-5 seconds as if you turned the key off. Upon closer inspection, both injectors quit spraying fuel even though there is sufficient fuel pressure. Now it tries to start but it backfires and carries on before dying altogether. Does not throw any codes. I'm stumped. Again, it was running GREAT before, nothing was done to the motor between then and now. Everything is new or reman'd including the fuel pump and filter. 12.8v at the battery. Initial timing is correct. Fuel pump runs for a few seconds when key is first turned on. In other words, everything checks out fine, but the injectors lose power and I can't figure out why!!

Would falty distributor components cause the PCM to cut power to the injectors?

Hello jeepmanjr On Behalf of 2carpros, I wish you happy new year. When an engine suddenly quits running, but then starts again and runs few seconds and quits running again ,the cause may be the loss of an important sensor signal such as the ignition trigger signal (engines with distributors) Older GM HEI ignition modules also were prone to this disorder - especially if someone replaced the module in the distributor and forgot to apply the heat sink grease underneath to prevent the module from overheating. your engine is a 4.3 L I believe and please correct me if I'm wrong so we can be on the right path. Here is what we can do start with ignition coil. Disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the coil. Set the ohmmeter to the HIGH scale, then connect it to the coil as shown in Step 1 of the illustration. The reading should be infinite. If not, verify a proper test connection to be assured of a true test result and if still not infinite, replace the coil. Set the ohmmeter to the LOW scale, then connect it as shown in Step 2 of the illustration. The reading should be very low or zero. If not, verify a proper test connection and replace the coil. Set the ohmmeter on the HIGH scale, then connect it to the coil as shown in Step 3 of the illustration. The ohmmeter should NOT read infinite. If it does, verify the connection and replace the coil. Reconnect the distributor lead and wiring to the coil. print this for your diagnosis.

pick up coil testing Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the distributor cap and disconnect the pick-up coil connector from the module Connect an ohmmeter to either pick-up coil lead and the housing as shown in Step 1 of the illustration. The reading should NOT be infinite. If the reading is infinite, replace the coil. Connect an ohmmeter to both pick-up coil leads as shown in step 2 of the illustration. Flex the wires by hand at the coil and the connector to locate an intermittent opens. The ohmmeter should read a constant number in the 500-1500- range. If not, replace the pick-up coil. print this for your diagnosis

Engine Performance problem
1988 Chevy S-10 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual
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My s10 will not idle when cold and will idle poorly when warm. trouble code is 35. I have allready replaced the IAC valve. My scanner does show idle at 500 rpm. also, i think a hot start proble is related as it will appear to be flooded when I attempt to start 20 to 30 minutes after a hot shut down. A small vacuum hose was replaced when it was noted to be cracked.
My scanner shows the temperatures to be in normal range and the iac is showing open and closed to scanner.

The code is IAC.
However:
I would also have a look at the EGR. That one should be vacuum operated, so it can be easily tested by moving the exposed diaphragm with a finger (or screw driver if warm). if the idle changes its good: otherwise its cheap to replace (usually).
Other than that Ive seen a lot of older chevy motors with massive carbon build up it the intake and throttle body. the last one I pulled apart the IAC passage was completely plugged by carbon. might be worth a look as well.

The IAC was replaced as well as the EGR valve and the EGR solenoid valve. The throttle body was pulled and cleaned with no significant build up but a very thin coating. The Fuel injector was replaced and well as the pressure regulator on throttle body. The injector still dribbles gas on throttle plate. Replaced vapor canistor filter. I stepped up the idle speed adjustment. The scanner now shows the fuel air ratio of 9 to 1 instead of 14 to 1 as expected.The throttle position sensor shows close to .5 volt on scanner at idle. The temperatures are in normal range.

Hi, I have a 1987 chevy s-10 thart starts it runs in park but when put in gear it dies and wont start again for at least 10 minutes.but then restarts and runs in park. does same thing can you help. thank you

If you "pump" the throttle as you put the trans in drive, does the engine still die? Does the engine start and idle normally before you put it in drive?
My first thought is with the idle speed control unit(ISC). This little valve is supposed to compensate for added engine loads such as power steering, AC and transmission. You may want to have this unit checked. Hope this helps.

thank you for answering my question. Yes even when I give it gas it dies and wont start back for at least 10 minutes.

OK, please keep in mind, I'm not there so the only thing I have to go on is what you tell me. I have a few more questions;
Do you have, or have you had, a check engine light? If yes, what trouble codes are stored in memory? This information is important.

Is the truck even driveable? If yes, what do you do to get it to go?

Does the "stalling" problem exist reguardless of whether the engine is warm or cold?

When was your last tuneup?

I'll be looking for your response. We may have to run a fuel pressure test.