1983 Chevy S-10 Ignition Coil Burns Out in Minutes

Ok before I can help much I need you to look at the underhood sticker and see if it is california emission or just federal emissions. I also need to know if you have a digital multi meter to check the ignition module. Get back to me and we will take it from there.

Turns out this problem was not anything to do with the coil. I'm having problems with my carburetor specifically. It's a Rochester Verajet II 2SE. The auto choke seems not to work. No matter how I adjust it the choke never changs position, making me have to manually move the butterfly valve to change the amount of air the engine gets. How do I test an auto choke? I tested the wiring with my multi-tester, and I was getting a reading of 9.18 Volts, but from my understanding it should be at 12 Volts. I dont know if this makes a world of difference or not.

To bypass this problem as a whole I am considering installing a manual choke, so I can remove this as a problem and get on with other diagnostics to find out what's really wrong with the carb. My assumption is It lies with the Idle mixture screw and the idle speed screw. I am trying to figure the settings for these two at the moment. I have it set so when the car is warmed up, the choke valve is completely open (as of now I'm doing this by hand), and my idle mix screw is 1 and a half turns out (I screwed it all the way in and then backed it out 1 and a half turns). I set my idle speed screw so that the engine maintains idle and does not die. I have not used tachometer or vacuum gauge so I'm not going off of manifold pressure or rpm's. its just my ear.

I have a tachometer I can hook up (I don't know how, the directions confuse me) and I also have a vacuum gauge that i dont know how to set up (I have no idea what lines are vacuum lines and what ones are for liquids or whatever else they are used for). I am new to auto maintenance but I'm fairly bright and can figure things out on my own, but this is kicking me around.

So as of now, the engine runs fine in idle when it's in park. as soon as I switch it to drive its a different story. I believe what is happening is called a surge. If the brake is held it feels as if the car pulls momentarily to accelerate and then bogs down and this repeats itself. If I put it back in park it's fine. If I apply gas the truck drives fine until I slow down again and the surging continues. It seems to surge constantly at the same rpm's.

I cannot toggle with the idle mixture screw while the car is running because there is a sensor in the engine blocking my access. If this sensor is unscrewed it unveils engine coolant like in the radiator. The problem I have in setting this idle mix screw is I have to let the car cool off before I can unscrew the sensor and tighten or loosen the screw. As you can imagine, its a pain in the ass. There has to be a tool designed to get around this but I havent found one.

I also noticed when I was in the cab at the drivers seat, the car was warmed up, that when I apply gas the oil pressure gauge goes from 65 to exceeding the max 80 on the gauge. I know this is not a good thing, so I question if this can help troubleshoot the problem.

If you need any more information let me know. I look forward to your response.

Stephen

I also just did an oil change, and new oil filter, so that wouldn't be the problem to high oil pressure.

Ok with the choke, get you carb number and go to your local parts store and order a new choke thermostat. If you have voltage and it won't work then it is bad. If your truck idles good until you step on the brake then I would check the vacuum booster out to see if it holding vacuum. It may be bad.

I took it into the shop today and they told me my EGR valve needed to be replaced, also that the carb needed to be rebuilt. I'm not sure if they were fishin for money or it was legitimate. They said it runs super lean. I'm in the process of cleaning the EGR now because it has to much build-up in it.

When I put it back in the truck once its cleaned out, is it possible the truck could run fine?

Yes it could run just fine. If it don't could you include a pic of the front of the carb so I can see if the mixture screws are accessable?

the idle mixture screw isnt accessible because of a sensor right in front of it. I'm sure there is a tool for it, but I don't have one. I can upload a picture tomorrow.

Ok so if you put your hand over the carb when it is running does the idle pick up a bit? If so then it is running lean and you should set you timing then adjust the carb. What you do is turn one mixture screw in then turn it out till you have reached best idle, then do the same on the other mixture screw. Then adjust idle speed. If you go to a parts store they should have a screw driver with a flexible end that comes with bits cost about 8 bucks. See pic

I have a tool just like that, a long driver with a felx end.. but the problem is the sensor is so close to the idle/mix screw that it wont allow me to fit the bit in. I suppose if it were a smaller bit it may fit. I'll do some shopping, and let you know what happens when I do what you've said. When I put my hand over the carb it does die.

my bad, i meant when i put my hand over it it picks up. dur.

Ok so it is running lean and needs to be richened up a bit. This will cause it to idle rough and mpg would be down too. Let me know how it goes once it is adjusted.

When I rebuilt the carb I lowered the float. before this, the car was running rich. thats why I rebuild the carb in the first place. Is it possible the float level is too low? I could swear I measured it right, but maybe I miss-calculated.

If the float is low then yes this will make it run lean and it may not be able to be adjusted out. So if you would and it isn't to much trouble recheck it and get it correct.

sounds like my problem. I'll be able to adjust it in the morning in about 15 minutes. I'll let you know how it goes.

That will work. Thanks.