Starter not working

Is it cranking over and will not start or just won't crank at all/nothing when you turn key to starting position??

It won't crank i'ts like if the battery was dead,you have to try several times before it starts.

Could be one of the following: the starter, starter relay,park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

Heres a guide that will help you narrow it down

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Do I have to remove wheel or air bag to replace switch ( electrical part ) and how hard is it to replace.

Electrical problem
1991 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I've got a 1991 Lumina. When I try to start the car, it starts to crank for like a second, then blows a fuse under the hood, then nothing. Any ideas? Please help.

Which fuse is it blowing? May be a bare wire running to that fuse that is earthing, causing fuse to blow. If that specific fuse is needed for vehicle to start, this would be the reason for no start.

Post the fuse component and the condition of the wiring and I will follow up.


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OK, got it home and pulled out the 10amp ecm fuse. Put in a 15 amp and car starts everytime. It was suggested that the fan relays may be causing the fuse to blow. The only relays in this fuse box are the fan relays. No visible bare wires.
New problem..........Car is on; when I turn on the headlights the headlight warning dinger remains on? No doors are open. There are alot of fuses and relays and dingers under the passenger side of the car where the sound is coming from; can't narrow it down. The only thing I can read is AC relays. Got maybe a diagram & explanation for this area?

Okay, if your ECM fuse is what keeps blowing then you definitely have a short somewhere. Do the interior lights and/or door ajar light come on when the headlights ding? It could be one of your door ajar switches in the door jamb that is shorting out causing these problems. Try spraying WD-40 or equivalent light oil in the door jambs and see if it temp. fixes the headlight dinging. Can't seem to find diagram of that specific area right now but I will continue to look and ask around and get back with you on that.



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No indicator lights or interior light comes on. I checked the door jamb switches and they seemed fine. So, the 15 amp fuse in place of the original 10 amp is obviously a temporary fix? Is it going to hurt/blow-up anything by leaving the 15 amp in there? Really appreciate your help and your prompt responses. Thanks

Okay. Well it may be connected to your headlight switch itself then. Replacing a fuse with a larger Amp fuse is never a good idea. The fuse is blowing to prevent a fire/damage to components so if you replace that fuse with a larger fuse then it will not be able to blow out as easy and could cause a fire/damage. 5 Amps isn't really much but then again, I wouldn't risk it.

I have another tech coming to help out here so just hang in there and we will get you fixed up best we can.



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Yeah, the dinger thing is weird. All of the lights work properly on the car; interior & exterior. It's just the noise that won't silence. As far as the fuse, I know it's a bad idea..............had to do what I had to do; ya know. Again, the only relays in this fuse box are the fan relays, and no visible bare wires. I plan on selling the car but don't want to hand over this headache to some un-suspecting soul.

Engine Performance problem
1997 Chevy Lumina 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my 97 lumina will turn over but not start. it just happened. and it was very recent. we did fill up with Arco gas, and ran it until about a 1/4 tank left. it sat overnight and then would not start. checked several things. first put in good quality fuel and a bottle of HEET into the gas tank. no start. then replaced spark plugs. no start. then sprayed starting fluid into the carberator. tried starting it and after a few tries it worked. it ran for about a week or 2 then wouldnt start again. sprayed the carberator again with starting fluid and it worked. changed the fuel filter as a precaution, thought the old one was still good. then went on a trip (about 200 miles round trip) on the way back filled up at a Chevron. got home and the next morning it wont start. sprayed more starting fluid and this time it did not work. took out the IAC and cleaned it. reinstalled it, but still wont start. put in a little more starting fluid into the carb, and it sputtered and tried to start, but as of now it wont start. i bought a Chilton manual, but still an frustrated. seems the first time it happened is when we got ARCO gas. before that no problems. this has been over the course of about a month.

Hi DoratheExplorer, Just want to confirm a few things. Does the warning chime comes on ONLY when headlights are ON? With or without ignition switch ON or engine running? The ECM fuse in underhood left electrical center is rated as 20 A, item # 1 in diagram. It is also for the fuel pump and since you have a 10 A fuse, it would blow as it does nt have the capacity to run the fuel pump for extended eriods.

Can you get the fuel pressure checked? When it won't start do you hear the pump hum?

Would you possibly have a fuse diagram, (under the hood on passenger side of vehicle) for a 91 Lumina. I want to make sure I have the right fuse. I may have gotten it wrong. As for the lights, dinger sounds when headlights are turned on with & without car running.

yes the pump does hum like it should. pretty sure its getting gas. i tried again today to start it. i started by spraying start fluid into the carb. then tried to turn it over. it sputtered. but that was that. it wont start again. i also took the spark plugs out to see if it was getting spark. i could feel and smell oil on the plug so im not sure what to make of this one.

Here's apicture of the fuse box (passenger side, under hood). The fuse that keeps blowing is the distributor fuse (10amp). Also, could you tell me what all the other fuses to the right are for. There are 3 60amp & 3 30amp. The one that's x'd out says fuel pump relay, but it's empty and the fuel pump/ecm relay is actually on the drivers side of the car. Figured out the dinger noise.............was simply a fuse in the glove box panel. DUH!

Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator any fuel in hose or regulator?

I could not see any diagram and have instead posted 1 with the identifications. Let me know which fuse is blowing and I will try to get the details.

I did more checking and reading through the Chilton manual. then my girlfriend suggested that i call around to local auto shops and attempt to pick their brains.
i called one and they said no way. no advice on the phone. then the second one was very nice and we had a good convo. on the car. he finally suggested the course of action to take is to replace the ignition control module. and if i can score them the coil packs as well. i am planning to call around to see if i can find an ICM at wrecking yards where i can pull it myself. and see if that is the issue. i am 90% sure im getting fuel. i did the spark test and saw that i was not getting spark.

I have a 99 chevy lumina, 3100 engine, will not start or even turn over. In start position I have power to starter celinoid and will start by shorting across the starter terminals in on position. I do have security light on and can't seem to cancel in normal way. I already checked battery, cables, fuses, and starter.

The pic of the component center that you sent is under the passenger side interior. I definately needed that one too, so thank you. Here are pics of the power distribution box located under the hood, passenger side. The fuse that kept blowing is marked distributor & had a 10 amp in it. I put in a 15amp and now it doesn't blow. Also, there are 3 60amp fuses & 3 30amp fuses in the box that aren't labeled. Any ideas? Again, Thanks So Much for all your help.

Did you fix your problem??I have the similar problem.

Thats why it wont turn over is because the security light on have it scanned for codes and let me know the exact codes you have.

Hi, Sorry for the mixup. My data shows only 2 pcs of 30 A maxi-fuse. None of the fuse was marked distrubutor in my database so can you please tell me the fuse # from the diagram, ( is it Fuse # 7, Direct Ignition System )? Btw to be sure I get the correct details, I need the engine variant of your vehicle as different engine variant has different wiring diagrams.

Fuse Identification 1 - 20 Amp Air Pump (3.4L Manual) 2 - 15 Amp Trunk Release, Back-Up Lights 3 - Not Used 4 - Service 3.4L DOHC V6 5 - Service 3.4L DOHC V6 6 - 4 Amp Injectors (4-Cylinder Engine) 7 - 10 Amp Direct Ignition System 8 - 10 Amp Injectors (3.1L V6 Engine) 9 - Not Used 10 - 15 Amp Ignition System 11 - 10 Amp Ignition Relay Identification 12 - Air Pump Relay (3.4L DOHC V6) 13 - Not Used 14 - Heavy Duty Cooling Fan Relay 15 - Cooling Fan Relay 16 - A/C Compressor Clutch Relay Maxi-Fuse Identification 17 - 60 Amp Starter Solenoid 18 - 30 Amp Cooling Fan (2.5L & 3.1L); 60 Amp Cooling Fan (3.4L DOHC V6) 19 - 60 Amp High Blower 20 - 60 Amp Cooling Fan 21 - 30 Amp Ignition

i had same problem. My mechanic change ignition coil and pick up coil and its working fine.

had it scanned - no codes showed up
used ohm meter - no continuity to cylinder and key
possible broken wire to cylinder?

It is fuse #7. And I believe it's your standard 6 cyl. The one that's in 90% of these cars is what I was told. But your pic definatley looks like the one I have.

So you have no connection between the two to the ignition switch?If so there could be a broken wire or bad cylinder.

Fuse # 7 is the main power supply for the Direct Ignition System and if it keeps blowing, you might have a failing control unit or there are some wires that are exposed.

ran a jumper wire -- turn key to on, push jumper button and car will start now -- hoping this will work for the long term until we can get a different car, thanks for your input

As long as you have a relay between your button and starter or you will have a problem.