Stalling

It is the overdrive solenoid in the trasmission. It is going bad and can cause you to wreck. Yo temporarily fix this is a little trick that will work for a little bit but you will lose overdrive. There is a square plug on the side of the trans facing the front of the car. Unplug this and tie up. It will solve your stalling problem for now.
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Change the MAP sensor and any tubing if it is remotely mounted - worked for me after replacing other sensors and not fixing the problem.

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken

Car tries to shut off when coming to a stop.

try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner. they get gummy and will cause this. if it continues check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. See link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Hello,

I bought this car 6 months ago. It started dying after running for 5 minutes a month after I bought it. This occurs when it is idling or driving.

It will start fine in the morning or after sitting for a long period of time, but dies after it warms up. If I sit and wait (10-15 minutes) it will start again, but it will die again some period down the road. It seems to be getting worse. Earlier in the summer it would die and I would start it and it would run for a long period afterwards, but now in the winter it dies and takes much more time to restart.

When it dies it acts as if it has run out of gas. Sputters a few times and then dies. I added a fuel additive to remove moisture from the lines, I tried fule injector cleaner to see if that would fix it. I removed the fuel filter, but it appears to be pretty new. I am now down to a few possibilities, but wanted to get the advice of an expert: Fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump.

I live in Belgium and this is a European Spec Corsica. I want to do the work myself to avoid paying Euro prices for labor. Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Jerry

Start with the basics, and work your way up, Last tune up was? Wires plugs ALL filters? If all that is ok, check for a stuck EGR, then test fuel pump pressure, If it won't restart, determine what's missing, the engine needs three things to run, Spark at all plugs, gas to all cylinders, and compression in all cylinders, tho an engine may run lacking one in one cylinder, it won't run very well!
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_engine_ignition_system.htm

I have a 1992 Chevrolet Corsica with 53,000 miles. When I drive for an hour or more the engine tends to stop when I put on the brake. Any idea what this is?

Do you have a check engine light and when was last major tune-up?

Clean the idle air control valve, EGR valve and test the TPS and MAP sensors-to include a fuel pressure test-

3.1L motor
Automatic transmission

Was driving alright, except when shifted into a gear from park, the engine would slow down a bit.
Power steering pump failed (giant fluid leak, covered half the engine), so I replace the pump and used electric part degreaser to clean the alternator. The drive belt was also replaced.

Now, when started, some times it will just stall after starting. Ususally the 3rd or 4th start attempt it will start (but bogs for a second). It does this in park and neutral. After starting and not stalling, it drives fine. Alternator and battery both check out fine. I would assume I loosed a wire or something during the pump replacement, but only the alternator wires and ignition wires run over by it.
The person who actually drives it said last night while driving it all the dash light came on and the headlights flickered. Also, she said it stalled when put into drive after idiling alright.

Re check that all the electrical terminals for alt ignition and battery are clean and tight, you may have got oil onto the alternator brushes and this is causing a low charge state, get the alt output voltage checked under load, that is with blower on high, wipers on and hi beam on, and re check all ignition wire p[lugs for moisture, start here.

Battery was fully charged, car runs without battery
I throughly degreased the alternator with a crc cleaner
Even if it were the alternator, wouldn't it run off of the battery for a while?

you should not run the engine with battery disconnected, even for a short period of time. If the alternator is faulty and overcharges, you would have a currenty spike which would fry the PCM (engine computer) .

If the battery was disconnected, the PCM would need to relearn and if the throttle body is dirty, extremely low idling is expected. I would suggest cleaning the throttle body if the iding is erratic.

You might not have a complete failuere of the alternator and as mhpautos mentioned, the carbon brushes could be contaminated causing intermittent charging fault. It would take some tinme to run down the battery.

I'll clean the throttle body (and MAF while the air intake is off). I have the proper cleaners.

Regarding the alternator, what test do you want me to do? And how? I have access to a multimeter.

The engine idles "alright" in park, but worse in drive.

Thanks for the help guys

Start engine and check the voltage between the battery posts. It hould be 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

My car is not shutting down immediately after I turn off the engine. It is taking around 10 to 50 seconds to tun off after I turn off and remove the key.

Mobile mechanic came to fix over heating of the engine and he directly supplied the power to engine/radiotor fan by passing the sensor to run the fan. As a result fan will turn on once I start the car irrespective of engine heat. The above mentioned problem is coming after mechanic change the fan fuctionality

The radiator fan is the problem. When you turn the ignition switch off the fan is still spinning. A spinning motor IS a generator and it is what is supplying the current that keeps the engine running until it slows down. You can prove that to yourself by unplugging the fan right after you turn off the ignition switch or by throwing a rag into it to stop it. The engine will stop running the instant the fan motor stops spinning.

Hi

Thanks for quick response, the problem is occurring only 50% to 60% of the times when I go for drive. (It is not occurring every time). So what will be solution? Do you want me to reset the power supply to fan back to original settingd as it is earlier before Autozone referred mechanic fix?

Yup. The fan can not be wired to run directly whenever the ignition switch is on because once you turn the ignition switch off, the fan is still spinning and it acts like a generator. That is where the power is coming from that keeps the engine's ignition system and fuel pump powered up.

The original fan circuit is not that complicated and should be easy to fix properly if there is something wrong with it. If the fix is expensive and you still want the fan to run whenever the ignition switch is on you would have to do that through a relay. That relay would turn off and that would prevent the fan motor from acting like a generator. Your car should have a fan relay already. What some people do is run the relay's ground wire to a switch inside the car so they can turn it on only when the fan is needed.

1992 Corsica 126000 miles, of my daughters stalls and wont start. Replaced plug wires two weeks ago because #3 was not firing and it fix it. She filled with gas nite before last and next morning would not start. Nesxt day it started but there is no spark going to #3 cylinder. After is sits all nite it will start but die when up to operating temp and won't start again. IS it possible that with #3 not firing the oxygen senser would prevent it from started because of gas vapor building up in exhaust manifold?

It is very very rare for an oxgen sensor to cause a no start condition. The conditions you mentioned will not cause a no start, but good thinking just the same.

Does the sister plug on that coil have spark? If you follow that wire back to the coil you'll see there are two wires on the coil.

You can swap the coils around to see if the missing spark stays at that cylinder (or cylinders) or follows the coil. If it follows the coil, this indicates the coil is bad.

I changed fuel filter thinking it was fuel. Now I can't even get it to fire with starting fluid. We should I begin to narrow down electrical system..

You need to check for spark during the no-start period. Is there spark?

Don't continue to use starting fluid trying to get the engine started. A little bit can be very dangerous, overuse really creates a hazard. The vapors can collect and be ignited by unknown ignition sources (ones your not expecting).

Have 12 v to ign module but nothing out to crank sensor. Checked coils for resistance and they are within specs. Ign module was checked good at Auto Zone (twice). Checked continuity on lead to crank sensor. Thinking it is computer, i opened it up to see the circuit board was burnt but looks ok. Is computer my final try?

How did you test the crank sensor? Hook your meter to the crank sensor (AC volts) and crank the engine. You should be getting, at the least, 500 mV. Alternatively, engine not cranking, hook your ohm meter to the sensor. An open or shorted condition is a sure sign of failure.

Do you hear the normal array of relays clicking when you first turn the key on? If not there is a good chance the crank sensor has failed. This is a very common failure on your car.

Don't overlook the wiring to the ignition module.

car is idling high when starting in the morning and car is revving up and down, then car will shut off. It starts back up and when put in drive will shut off. also stalls at stoplights. what is this part in red called? the yellow is the IAC (not my car but is the same 3.1 engine). the red line shows where one of the three black lines is cut in half. could this be the cause of my problems?

Can you take a picture of your engine? It does sound like a bad IAC motor.

my car is wanting to go without me really pushing on the gas and the gas fumes are awful due to the exhaust.used to require pushing on gas when starting but now doesnt but seems to want to shut off when first starting and backing up.sometimes when first starting up and the ac is on it smells like unburnt gas

Try cleaning out the idle air control valve and test the throttle position sensor-