bleeding the clutch

There is a technical service bulletin (TSB) about this repair for your vehicle. The details of the TSB are below..

Bulletin No.: 01-07-31-002B

Date: November 01, 2006

INFORMATION

Subject:
Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System

Models:
2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2006-2007 HUMMER H3

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.

Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.

Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.

Remove the reservoir cap.

Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.

Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.

Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.

Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.

Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.

Refill the reservoir to the proper level.

Repeat Steps 6 and 7.

If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.

The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.

Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).

Add additional fluid if needed.

Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

I put in a new clutch. I bleed the hydraulics , sleeve ect. I get 1st and 2nd and reverse? I will bleed it again and get 3rd and 4th, and no 1st and 2nd and 5th. now I only can get 5th?

if it worked ok prior to replacing clutch the cable for shifting may be out of adjustment or something got bent in shifter mechanism at trans.
remove cup holder, put shifter in neutral and remove clips at trans shifter may need to be moved slightly and lock clip at shifter.press and lock shifter cable retainers remove clipat shifter handle reinstall everything

I had a problem with my car after i replaced my clutch in it as well. It turned out to be the master slate on the clutch pedal. After it was replaced my car was good.

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken

I have a 2007 chevy cobalt ss and today while driving I hit a good bump and right after that I went to shift my car and the clutch had to resist...Just went to the floor. I finally noticed that the clutch master cylinder is not attached to the firewall. So when I push in the clutch it pushes the cylinder out. I figured it was a push and twist type but im trying to figure out if I broke the master cylinder or it just untwisted itself or loose. Any tips on how to reach it since I have pretty good size hands. I do know that when my friend pushed on it i gained all my resist in my clutch.

[quote:0599284a8f="corysti"]Engine Mechanical problem
2007 Chevy Cobalt 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 50505 miles

I have a 2007 chevy cobalt ss and today while driving I hit a good bump and right after that I went to shift my car and the clutch had to resist...Just went to the floor. I finally noticed that the clutch master cylinder is not attached to the firewall. So when I push in the clutch it pushes the cylinder out. I figured it was a push and twist type but im trying to figure out if I broke the master cylinder or it just untwisted itself or loose. Any tips on how to reach it since I have pretty good size hands. I do know that when my friend pushed on it i gained all my resist in my clutch.[/quote:0599284a8f]
i was reading about replacing that clutch master and it said to get acess to it to remove ur under hood fuse box bracket assembley.let me know how it goes.

My problem is my clutch has no pressure it has to be pumped about a dozen times when Istart the car. After driving for a while it has to be pumped again to gain pressure. The fluid in the master cylinder hasn't gone down and the brakes work fine. What is the problem?

your problem lies in one of 2 things... the slave cylinder, or the clutch master cylinder.... to me, it sounds like your master is allowing pressure loss, thats why your fluid isnt low, but you need to pump the pedal to get pressure... however, a bad slave can do it also... i suggest replacing them in a pair, just because when one goes bad, the other isnt far behind... save your self the hassle, and replace both.... bleed the system, and you will be all set...