1990 Chevy Cheyenne How to replace and where is the Ignitio

Hi AlaskaForever2010, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Let me try to help this is what one of my auto references says on how to remove the ignition switch

Disconnect battery ground cable.
Carefully loosen attaching bolts, then lower steering column.
Place ignition switch into the Lock position. If the lock cylinder has been removed, the actuating rod to the switch should be pulled up, until there is a definite stop, then move down one detent. This is the Lock position.
Remove two attaching screws from ignition switch.
Remove ignition switch assembly.
Reverse procedure to install

I am still very lost.

The rod moves, but I cannot access the inside of the steering column behind the steering wheel.

And the plastic column shrounds dont come off.

Is this a 4X4 and also a C1500 or K1500 give more description

The truck is a 1990 C1500 W/T V6 2WD. So I replaced the ignition switch, which is located at the lower part of the steering column. But no change in the truck. And it was easy to pull the steering wheel and the lock plate cover inside once I had all the tools. But still could not gain access to the plastic ignition gears inside the column. The ignition switch was on the outside lower part of the steering column, and easy to replace. But got a chance to inspect the wires inside the steering column and they were fine, none of the wires were damaged or frayed. And got to look at the turn signal switch which was funky since we bought it, and got to see why it was loose.

What is it doing now-will it crank over?

No, it doesnt make a sound when you turn the ignition key, its been this way for days.

It does not attempt to crank over.

So I replaced the ignition switch, which is located at the lower part of the steering column. But no change in the truck.

And it was easy to pull the steering wheel and the lock plate cover inside once I had all the tools. But still could not gain access to the plastic ignition gears inside the column.
The ignition switch was on the outside lower part of the steering column, and easy to replace.

But got a chance to inspect the wires inside the steering column and they were fine, none of the wires were damaged or frayed. And got to look at the turn signal switch which was funky since we bought it, and got to see why it was loose.

Maybe I wasnt seeing something, going to try again tomorrow.

I know how its like in the land of the midnite sun been there -rough country Cantwell-okay have you check the neutral safety switch?

No, I have not checked the neutral safety switch. This is a manual transmission.

Where would the neutral safety switch be?

Engine lights come on and everything, but nothing else when you turn the ignition.

Sorry its the clutch switch check by the clutch pedal bracket support-jumper the connector and see what happens

Be standing by our Mit1 ondemand right now might get restored in a few hours and I'll pull the circuit when it comes up

Apparently the back up light switch and the neutral safety switch are combined as one in this truck. It says it is mounted in the steering column. So back to taking the steering column apart again I guess. Took a look at the parts at www.rockauto.com and the switch must be the white plastic piece that fits inside the steering column (behind the steering wheel). After removing the steering wheel and using a screwdriver and lock plate tool to remove the lock plate, you get to this green plastic piece which pulls off. It has a metal ring all around the back of it for making a connection. Then there are plastic pieces with a connector plugging in the back of them, this must be the back up light and neutral safety switch pieces. Problem now is everything says to use a T/W 12085485 connector? So all T/W means is Two Wheel drive and I found the connectors and the switches at www.rockauto.com

Checked with Mit1 it says the clutch/neutral switch is on the clutch pedal bracket, for a C1500 P/U

The clutch pedal bracket? But pictures of the part look like the plastic piece inside the steering column.

Getting back to the ignition coil.

The coil has three different test postions:

When I run test 2 on the low scale of the ohmmeter I am supposed
to get a reading of 0.1 Ohms, but I get nothing.

The other two test run perfect. One test runs infinite on the high scale
of the ohmmeter, and the other test stays inbetween 5 and 25 on the high
scale of the ohmmeter.

The book says to replace the coil if ANY of the readings arent perfect.

To remove the coil from truck requires drilling out the two rivets keeping the coil attached to the coil bracket. CRAPPY!!!

I believe I tested the ignition coil wires wrong though. I didnt test the bear wires inside the connections, I tested the insulated wires instead. And since there are two connections, I am not sure if I test them seperately or together.

It would make sense to bridge the connections together with the multimeter and test them that way. Let me know what you think.

Also, no spark coming from the spark plugs or between the spark plug wire and the distributor cap. Unless my brand new spark plug tester tool isnt working.

Make sure you're on the right scale of the DVOM or an analog type

To test the coil connect the ohmmeter's two test leads to the coils primary terminals (+ and -). Most coils should read between 0.4 and 2 ohms. Zero resistance would indicate a shorted coil while a high resistance reading would indicate an open coil.

Secondary resistance is measured between the positive (+) terminal and high voltage output terminal. Newer coils with segmented core construction typically read 6,000 to 8,000 ohms, while others can may read as high as 15,000 ohms

So if the neutral switch was bad, how do I jump it? Pictures are below:

Make sure the key is off-jumper the wiring connector and attempt to start-did it crank over if not. Disconnect the jumper wire and check for power at the yellow wire which is coming from the ignition switch the other is purple wire goes to the starter solenoid if no power at yellow -recheck the ignition switch

Okay, I have got a ton of free help on here and you guys are all awesome for that. But my patience is wearing thin. My finace is nearing her due date for her pregnacy, we have kittens to find homes for, and I am done spending money on tools for this truck.

I am offering $20 to anyone who can figure this truck out for me.

Now I have disconnected the neutral safety switch, and jumped it with a wire, but no change in the truck. Then the relay mentioned in one of my postings is still unknown (i.e. what is it for), is it a horn relay, a starter motor control relay, what? And I have provided endless pictures while this project continues.

How do I check for power in the solenoid and ignition wires that lead into the connector for the neutral safety switch? Can I test for power with a multimeter?

Its Alaska. Its not very warm out. I dont have a shop.

So, where do I go from here, PLEASE READ THE ABOVE POSTINGS FOR THE LAST FOUR PAGES IF YOU ARE LOST.

So I have tested the neutral switch, and no amps are running to it.

But could the wires be bad? And if they were, how do I test the individual wires?

Do you have the 2 wires Yellow and Purple on the wiring connector-you said you don't have battery voltage on it when key at start postion on the yellow wire-if ths the case do a continuity test on the yellow wire from the ignition switch and the NSS yellow if the read is infinite the wire is open, if 0 ohms-the ignition switch.

Do you have an alarm system, if so check if its spliced into the yellow wire-preventing it from starting

No I dont have an alarm system.

I rechecked the power voltage inbetween the neutral safety switch and the connector, and still nothing.

I checked the fuel relay connector and it was fine.

Going to get a new neutral safety switch and a fuel pump relay.

Okay, so I replaced the fuel pump relay, the neutral safety switch and the relay I wasnt sure about. I tested the connector for the fuel pump relay, it has power, but it didnt hurt to replace it. So I finally got the plastic column shroud off of the steering column, so got to pull the ignition wires, and get a look at the ignition gears inside. Pictures are posted. Now, the purple wire (which I was told is the ignition wire), has a break in its insulation right before it inserts into the circuit board. This seems to be what keeps making the relay click repeatedely. Anyways, after a close inspection of the rest of the wiring, I see nothing wrong. The crack in the wire insulation could be something? {I later took and cleaned all the electrical connections with rubbing alcohol and qtips; they were very dirty and could have been preventing spark?} Tell me if you see anything in the pictures that I dont.

Connect the positive lead of your voltmeter to the purple wire at the ignition switch (poke the lead thru the insulation to contact the copper or touch the bare exposed portion you were talking about), and the negative lead to a good ground. When you turn the key to start, you should read 12 volts. OKAY: At the ignition switch connector is a purple wire, you will see it in the first picture. This wire, and the grey wire, both show no volts. But the white wire leading into the connector is good, and reads 11.75V when you turn the key. {There is no purple wire leading into the ignition switch itself, but there is Orange, Green, Yellow, Pink, Dark Brown, Dark Grey/Black, and two Red wires.} If no reading, poke the voltmeter lead thru the insulation to either of the red wires at the ignition switch and the negative lead to a ground, and you should read 12 volts without turning the key from the off position. (You said the dash lights come on when you turn the key, so there should be 12 volts here all the time). If no reading, the connector is not making a good contact with the ignition switch. OKAY: Both of the red wires in this test showed 11.75V again. Then connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the yellow wire at the safety switch connector (disconnected from the safety switch), the negative lead to ground. Turn the key to start. If you're not reading 12 volts, there's a break in the wire between the ignition switch and safety switch. (Not likely) OKAY: This yellow wire continuously showed a range of 35 to 40V varying. {And I tested at the wire, the connector terminal, and inside the connector terminal getting the same voltage every time. } If you are reading 12 volts at the safety switch when turning the key, then connect the positive lead of your voltmeter to the purple wire at the starter solenoid, and the negative to a ground. Have a helper turn the key to start. You should read 12 volts. If not, there's a break in the wire between the starter solenoid and the safety switch. OKAY: This purple wire showed no volts until the key was turned, then IT ALSO continuously showed a range of 35 to 40V like the previous test. If you are reading 12 volts at the purple wire at the starter solenoid when Becca turns the key to start, the starter is bad. NEXT: Get a length of wire long enough to run from the battery to under the dash. Peel ½" insulation off each end. Stick one end in the safety switch connector purple wire terminal (disconnected from the switch). Make sure you are in neutral and wheels blocked. Touch the other end to the positive battery terminal. The starter should turn. If not, try the yellow terminal at the connector. If it still doesn't turn, there's a break in the wire from the switch to the starter solenoid. If it does turn over, turn the ignition on and repeat. The engine should start. OKAY: Nothing as a result of this test. I read elsewhere yesterday to try this and almost tried it last night. Tried it this morning, and not a sound.

its your ignition starter switch its under the dash on top of the steering column near brake pedal its easy to replace takes about 5-10 min then your truck will start no problem