car stalling while driving?

I have seen the crankshaft angle sensor cause this issue here is the location so you can change it out for a new one this guide can help as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

thank you that fixed it the site is the best!

While driving down the highway, the defrost was on and high beam head lights. The car cut off, once I stopped the car started back up and ran fine. I got the battery, Alternator, and starter all checked out fine.

Since it can only be diagnosed at the exact moment it dies, it's going to have to get a lot worse before you will be able to find the problem. If the check engine light comes on, the stored codes may give you a hint of what is going on.

Last week I started the car after a very cold night, experienced symptoms much like a misfire. Happened again once after that and I let it idle to warm up - ran perfectly. Parked it in the driveway. Monday I drove it and it was fine. Tuesday morning after a night of -1 temps I go to start the car to warm it up and it starts HARD then stalls. I had 3/4 of a tank of gas. Did this several times. Left it alone. Put Heet (gas antifreeze) in the tank and rocked the car to mix it in. Went to start it this afternoon (1pm) and the car is doing the same thing (it is 30 degrees but feels warmer with sun). I put the car in Nuetral and started it - started easier then sputtered to a stall in 5 seconds.
Yesterday I tried starting it with my foot to the floor and it got to 500rpm's and quit.

What could this be? I replaced the fuel pump around 70k. I haven't had a tune-up. But - I have changed my air filter, and can do spark plugs probably. Does this sound fuel filter/system related? I am very worried as I am at school 3 hours (220miles) from home & my regular mechanic and can't afford to have it towed (obviously) and I am scared I will get ripped off out here (Syracuse).

Any suggestions?

Did you change your fuel pump yourself? Has the vehicle run any since you changed the fuel pump. Did you change the fuel filter. Sorry about all the questions but we need to narrow it down just a bit. It does sound fuel related however if you have never had a tuneup plugs and wires are due.
Did the vehicle run out of gas? If so, what happens with the fuel injected vehicles the high psi of the system will pickup a lot of debris from the bottom of the tank. All of this gets caught by the fuel filter. So you may just need to change your fuel filter. That is a simple and cheap first step. I would try that especially if it ran out of gas.

My car has been stalling when I driving around. When I turn the key off and back on it starts right back up and runs. It also cuts in and out around 2,000 rpm's. I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor. There are no codes. I need help please and thanks.

Good morning,

A common issue with this failure is the ignition module.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Before assuming it is the issue, I would remove it and take it to a parts store and have them test it. it is a free service. make sure you have them test it at least three times as it may have to get hot to fail.

it does not sound like a fuel pump as it starts right back up. if it was a fuel pump it would crank for about ten seconds before starting.

Roy

Procedure

1. Remove the air cleaner outlet from the air cleaner.
2. Remove the ICM electrical connectors (1) and spark plug wires (2).
3. Remove the ignition coils bolts (3).
4. Remove the ignition coils and ICM assembly.

Thank you for the information.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

My car keeps shutting off even after I replaced the alternator and the battery. Before my car shuts off it revs really low and high while the trac off light comes on. Also my temperature gauge keeps going up and down. I don't know if all of that is tied together or not?

Good morning,

Do you mean the battery dies and has to be jumped started or charged for it to start?

Please give me as much information as possible.

Roy

When turning it on I give it a little gas and it will start. I typically do not have to jump start it or charge it.

Okay, thanks.

There is an idle control motor. That is the usual cause for having to give it throttle to start.

Does it have any codes?

1. Remove the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connector.
2. Remove the IAC valve attaching screws (1).

NOTE: If the IAC valve has been in service: DO NOT push or pull on the IAC valve pintle. The force required to move the pintle may damage the threads on the worm drive. Also, DO NOT soak the IAC valve in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.

3. Remove the IAC valve O-ring (3).
^ Clean the IAC valve O-ring sealing surface, the pintle valve seat, and the air passage.
^ The IAC valve may be cleaned. Use a shop towel or a parts cleaning brush to remove heavy deposits.
^ Shiny spots on the pintle or seat are normal, and do not indicate misalignment or a bent pintle shaft.
^ Whenever air passages have heavy deposits, remove the throttle body for complete cleaning.
^ Inspect the IAC valve O-ring for cuts, cracks, or distortion. Replace the valve if it is damaged.
^ Whenever installing a new IAC valve, be sure to replace it with an identical part. The IAC valve pintle shape and diameter are designed for the specific application.

Roy

I have a 2001 Cavalier that I have to force to run/start by applying pressure to the gas pedal. I have tried replacing the fuel filter, the spark plugs, and even run some "Gum out" through the gas. The problem has not improved. Any ideas? The car has about 108K on the engine & transmission, and has never had any major repairs.

Use a gage and check fuel pressure. Also, check that the pressure holds when the pump stops and doesn't drop like a rock.

Clean the throttle-body and iac/idle air control. Let us know what you find.

2001 Chevy Cavilier at higher rpm 3500 to 4000 engine seems to spit and sputter,seems like it breaking down. the engine is a 2.2 . So far no codes have show up. This problem just started in last day, was do it at take off now seems to be at higher rpm's

fuel pressure check? or maybe filter? MAF sensor clean? vacuum leak somewhere?

EGR sticking/dirty

My 2001 Chevy Cavalier will shut off for no reason while driving. I will be driving and the trac off light will come on and then the car will stall out as I slow down or it will sputter and eventually stop. Other times it's like it loses power and starts to slow down and than my check engine light also comes on. If I shut the car off and turn it back on it starts up just fine and sometimes I can drive away just fine, and other times it can happen again within a few minutes. I recently replaced my alternator and the battery. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

have you tried checking what engine codes u got??

I don't know how to do that. And if you need a machine to figure the codes out. :/ I really don't want to take it in to the mechanic if I don't have to if it's something easy I can fix (college kid=broke kid)

You don't need to take it to a mechanic. Oreilly Shucks or Napa will check it for free...

Have you done a tune up to it??

Yeah everything was fine with it yesterday. It happened a few times today and I called my dad who said since my alternator probably drained the old battery so bad and it was probably the original that if I got a new battery I should be ok. So I got the battery from O'Reilly's and it seemed fine and when I left work tonight it started doing it again.

And I do appreciate you trying to help vdub98. I know a little about cars but this is new for me. I mean I was the one who changed my own alternator and battery by myself. So I'm not a total girly-girl when it comes to cars but this has me mystified. :/

No problem. So, did you put in a new alternator??

Yeah alternator is new as of like 2-3 weeks ago. Battery is new as of today. Hence why I'm confused.

oh ok. yeah when it comes to electrical, it gets very confusing. That happened to me alot with my VW. lol. is the battery is dead again??

No. Or I should say it shouldn't be considering it's brand new as of today. But you say O'Reilly's should be able to test it and help me figure out what's wrong (codes), etc??

When a car stalls. It means a bunch of things from the fuel system to an electrical component from the engine. But, if you can. try to see if you can find out that the codes are. it will be alot easier to see what is wrong.

Great. :/ I hope it's simple or I'm screwed... I can't afford to pay anyone to fix it... :/ Best case scenario would be???

Well, it shouldn't be that bad. It could be a faulty sensor. If you do get the codes, just let met know and i can help.
Another thing that you can do, is check the idle air control valve. because it will get gunked up over time and cause idling and stalling issues. Most can be removed and cleaned with wd-40 or throttle body cleaner. A carbon fouled throttle body can cause poor idling and stalling as well.
Thats something cheap that you can do for now. :)

Ok I'll get the codes as soon as I can tomorrow. I don't know about you but for me it would be easier to chat via email since I can send it from my cell phone. What works best for you?

Yeah. email would be good. everytime i come on here, it tells me that i need to sign in.
feel free to email me at [email protected]

Ok thanks. I'll let you know. :)

Did you figure out the problem I have the same issue and I am in the same situation as you. I am also a broke college kid but I desperately need to fix this issue):

My 2001 Chevy Cavalier will shut off for no reason while driving. I will be driving and the trac off light will come on and then the car will stall out as I slow down or it will sputter and eventually stop. This could happen when I am going down the highway, coming to a stop, or making a turn. If I shut the car off and turn it back on it jerks whenever I put it in drive. This last time it happened and jerked the RPM's revved and the car sped out and the brakes would not stop it. I eventually hit the person in front of me.

welcome to the forum, that sounds dangerous. In my opinion, you need to take it to a shop that can properly diagnose it. They use proper diagnostic equipment on it, I can't do that from here. My suggestions would be general in nature. Take the throttle-body off and clean it, check iac and tps where applicable, go from there.

Traction off light comes on then the car shuts off.