1996 Chevy Cavalier Battery Connections

Check around the starter for fusible links pull lightly on each one to check them

Checked my fusible links (the only one I could find was at the starter), all my fuses are good, but I did notice that the anti-theft light flashes for a long time after the ignition is turned off. If it is flashing the car won't start. Once it stops flashing the car will start. I'm just affraid to head down the road in it for fear it will die in the middle of nowhere.

Turn key on
security light flashing
try to start and let go leave key on
security light flasher for about 10 min
when it stops
turn key off and start car
key needed to be reprogrammed
happy driving after that
in some rear cases you may have to do that 3 times total of 30 min
good luck

OK, that worked for the theft light but as soon as I put my car in drive and moved a few feet all the warning lights started coming on and blinking again. Are there other fusible links that I may have missed or do you think I cooked my computer?

If it started I would say ECM safe
can you start it back up
check the battery terminals and make sure they are tight
do the key thing again
let it idle for 5 to 10 min
then try driving it
let me know

Took me a while. My primary car died also and it had to be repaired before I could get back to the Cavalier.
I checked the battery terminals. OK
I did the key thing again, 3 times.
I let it idle 5-10 min, 3 times. No lights flashing.
I put it in drive and before I could get out of the driveway the following lights on the dash start flashing or stay on;
brake- on
abs- on
theft- on
airbag- on
seatbelt- on (even when buckled up)
daytime running lights- flashing
check oil- flashing
low water- flashing
battery- flashing
oil pressure- flashing
seatbelt/key/headlight chime goes on and off while driving.
All this starts when put into drive.

Sounds like you might of fried the Engine computer they are usually located behind the dash board, i would consider other options before going and buying new engine computer even though that's what it sounds like they usually cost between $100-$160 Computer

Trying to get back to work on this. Checked wiring again and found no problems. Sounds like a computer is next. My repair manual says that the home mechanic cannot install and program the computer and it must be taken to a dealer. Anyone know if this is true? If I have to take it to a dealer, the $100-150 will triple and I don't know if I'm willing to put that kind of money into it.

Yes its true you can not replace the PCM with out programming it
it has to go to the dealer

Is there some special equipment involved that only the dealer would have or would most any auto repair shop be able to replace it? Seems like after 12 years most any shop should be able to replace and program it.

You can call around I'm not sure in your area!!!!

I know its a software issue( more then machine or an equipment) as GM will not release it so other have no access to it
I would make sure and be 100% sure its the PCM before I go for replacement

good luck

You have read in my previous post what I have checked to this point, so what would you recommend I try next. Is it possible for my ignition switch to be causing some of my problems? I have noticed that I have to play with the key to get it to unlock to start. Anything I may have missed?

Lets start fresh
it will take me a week to go back and check all was said before
tell me again what is going on
and what did you replace

Take the week to go back and read. It'll take me 2 weeks to compile the list of things I've done. Take your time and read everything. Maybe you have some other suggestions.

Thanks

I do NOT think its the PCM
Can you do this
run a new temp ground wire to engine from the battery negative side
and let check if the flashing stop
I was checking the wiring diagram and all have one common ground
its right front of engine compartment

I'll give it a try this weekend and let you know of any changes.

It's been raining here all weekend and I started to give the other negative cable a try. Did you mean to run a new cable to a new location or an additional cable (2 cables from Battery to engine)?

Run an additional ground line
from the battery to the engine
dont remove or replace any cables.

Gave it a try this morning. Only change is that the theft light is no longer flashing. Engine turns over but car won't start/run at all. May have to go back to square 1 and make sure I have fuel and fire.

best to do
start fresh like its just happened check the basic
security light out is a good thing
like you said check for spark and fuel pressure
just make sure you have fuel in the tank and good too

Have fire but don't seem to be getting fuel. Tried to listen for the pump to run but could not here a thing. Had the wife turn ignition on while I listened at the tank. Still could not here it. Any way to rule out the pump by placing a jumper in the electrical? Checked fuse. OK. Will have to check or replace relay to rule it out. Don't want to drop tank if I can rule out the pump.

Locate the wiring harness at rear side of tank and check for battery volts when first key on
also check for good ground
try this while the wife cranking go under the tank and hit the middle of it with you hand few time hard if that get the pump to initialize and run the pump no good

Did not get much done this past weekend due to rain. Did notice the only way to get the electrical connector unpluged is to lower the tank a bit. it's tucked up between the tank and the floor pretty snug. i will try to raise the car on jack stands next to get a little better access.

Located the harness. Gray and Black wires. When I cut the ignition on I have voltage for 3 or 4 seconds then none. Should I have voltage constantly or only until the fuel pressure builds up? I can not here the pump running at all.

fuel pump no good