Check gauges light

Well, I recommend that you take the car and have the engine computer checked for codes.

Normally these ltes come on due to errors in the system. Another possibility would be electrical faults in the system somewhere or you may just have low fluid levels brakes, power steering, motor oil, tansmission oil coolant ect.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask. Were here to help any way we can.

Richard

I know I do not have any low fluid levels. I check those regularly. Is it some switch that is just confused to think it needs to be on? I have had a low oil light come on right after I bought my car and a oil change fixed that no problem. Thank you for your reply.

Thanks, I will try both ideas. Oh also, would it matter if the needles were mixed up? Say if the gas needle was on the battery one?

If the needle looks the same you should be fine.

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

Okay, so update: About the gauges not reading correctly on my 1998 Chevrolet Camaro. I pulled the PCM/injector fuse and disconnected my battery for about an hour thinking it would help reset the cluster. I removed the needles and placed them in what I thought is the proper place. I had to get towed home last night because I drove the car quite awhile looking at the gauges mph and rpm seem to look okay, but I did not notice the gas gauge not moving and ran out of gas, bummer. Can you please please help me getting my gauges back on track and reading correctly? Is there anything that can be done?

Bummer, can you take a picture or video and upload it to the site here so I can see whats going on? It sounds like you may have a bad ground for the cluster. Show me what the gauges do with the key on and then start the engine.

Thanks , Ken

Sure, here is a video of it.

Great video! Really helps me see whats going on. I would unplug the cluster and test for proper ground and power. Here is a guide to show you how:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Here is the wiring diagrams so you can see which wires to test also check fuse # 9 and #7. Both pink and red should have power with the key on.

Check out the diagrams (below)

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

Wonderful and thank you so much for taking the time to help me I really appreciate it! I will get a test light and run the tests and test the fuses as you said I will keep you updated. Thanks ken!

So update: I checked the wires and seem to be fine. I went to the junk yard and grabbed another cluster identical to my original one plugged it in, but I cannot tell if it is accurate. Geez I wished I never touched those needles I am having such a difficult time.

Yes, the cluster can be delicate. What is the new cluster doing? Does it act normal?

Well, it seems to be acting okay but when the car is off and no key in the ignition the gas gauge moves up to a little passed a quarter of a tank and when I turn the key in the start position the needle drops to empty, but there is gas in the vehicle. The battery gauge does not seem to be reading it is full voltage.

Okay, if the rest of the gauges work okay there is a fuel level sender that has gone out in the tank which is part of the fuel pump module. Check the wire for continuity and if okay replace the sender. You will need to remove the tank to do so.

Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

On you car you will need to drop the differential down.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

I see, but the fuel pump was just replaced brand new about two years ago and the fuel gauge was working just fine before I took the needles off. So you relay think it is the pump all of a sudden? Geez, that would not be good if it is. How would I diagnose it to know for sure?

The only way to tell for sure is to remove the sender and check the resistance as you move the float up and down. But since it happened since you had the cluster out I would double check the electrical connector at the cluster to see if the pin has pulled out causing an open connection.

Use this guide to check the wire from the sender to the cluster continuity:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

There is nothing in between you can tell by the wiring diagrams.

Let me know,

Hi Ken, I have a question how would I test the fuel sensor sending unit aka "float" on my car 3800 series engine? If I were to use the trap door in the trunk instead of dropping the tank and remove the fuel pump itself what measures should I go about testing the sensor "float" on the pump using a multi-meter tester? What wires should I connect to to get a proper reading? And where is the fuel pump relay should I check that too? What exactly does a fuel pump relay do?

Oh yes, you can do that no problem. It is the purple wire use a volt meter to a metal part of the fuel pump module and move the float up and down then you can see the resistance change.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

Okay, will do thanks!

Hello, well here is an update: I so I finally got the fuel pump assembly out to test. Here is a video or two I think the float aka sensor is working properly, but I am not to sure. I would just really like to figure out my gas gauge issue not working please help!

The float is working good so that is not the problem. You must be loosing signal in the wire or the gas gauge itself is bad. Go ahead and connect the sender and do the same test at the cluster, you should be able to see the same results at the cluster. (purple wire) nice work on the videos.

Thanks! But question how would I properly test the cluster? And or gas gauge? Should I disconnect the battery while I am testing it? The battery was disconnected during the sensor-float test.

Yes, the battery does not matter because it is an ohms test. With the sender plugged in move the float up and down and the reading should vary like it does in the video. If so the cluster is bad (gauge stepper motor). Here is a stepper motor kit that I recommended to another guy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0743G91G9/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2carprcom-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0743G91G9&linkId=c34265bdccd14ecf623eda8aa7e587e2

You can just replace the gauge motor and you should be all set.

Oh I see, but I am still not sure on how to test the cluster if it is plugged into the car itself with battery disconnected with the sender plugged in. How would I test it? I am testing the ohms on the cluster? Gas gauge? Sorry just trying to understand what you mean, sometimes texts can be miss understood.

No problem. It is difficult to test the gauge without a signal generator, which is basically a sender. Let test the cluster power and grounds. Use the wiring diagrams on the previous post. Lets get this fixed!

Yes, getting this issue fixed would make my day. So before on your list you said test the pink wire? Said it is always a hot wire? Which one is the ground and if I am testing it on ohms what kind of reading should I be looking for?

Hello, having issues with the gas gauge not working rather going through all the wiring. I just went out and bout a universal gas gauge to hook up near the dash. The fuel gauge I bought only has two wires to connect. Can you tell me how to hook this up to my car? Is there a wiring diagram to the fuel pump?

My apologies, I the fuel level gauge I bought has a connection for three wires the sender unit wire,ground, and 12 volts. I just need help wiring this to my car so that it works. I am not sure of the colors of the wires to the pump, but I believe it is three wires. I need to know which is which and the best way to hook this gauge up to my car so it works properly.

Here is what the gauge looks like.

For the cluster you need to test the black and black and white wire for ground. For the gauge which might work use the power ground and signal wire from the sender.

Oh okay, the black and white wire on the actual gauge? Those two are the wires for the bulb it pulls right out to replace the bulb.
What wires should I hook the gauge to on the car?

The black and black and white was to check the cluster grounds. The wires must be connected to the spade terminals it should say on the back of the gauge which wire goes to what use the wiring diagrams to see which is the fuel sender wire.

Update: So I found the wires to make the gauge I bought work. Here is what I did: I located the purple which is the sender wire the grey which is the power and black which is the ground connected the wires exactly ran it through the car all wires tucked away nice and neat and the gauge it working great. Thank you for all your help it is much appreciated!

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken