growling noise front driver side - bearing hub replacement?

Sounds liek the wheel bearing (hub) I have seen many of them that made noise but didnt feel bad on initial inspection. Are you sure it is the r/f? drive slow in parking lot, if noise is louder on right turns then it is most likely right front. This video shows the job being done on a similar car but the process is the same.

https://youtu.be/ZgiPRG6jffc

Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bearing-hub-replacement

Please run down these guides and report back.

what size wrenches , sockets do i need to change hub assy on my blazer ?? thanks dan

If I remember right the axle nut is 30mm and the three bolts that hold it on are 15mm here's how: Page 1 of 1 WHEEL HUB & BEARINGS Removal 1.Raise and support vehicle. Unload tension on torsion bar. See TORSION BAR. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Apply brake pedal. Remove axle shaft nut and washer. Remove rotor. See Fig. 1. Using brass drift and hammer, disengage axle shaft from wheel hub and bearing. NOTE: Darkened areas on bearing assembly are caused by heat treatment process and do not indicate a need for replacement. 2.Remove wheel speed sensor. Remove wheel hub and bearing from steering knuckle. Remove splash shield and bearing seal. Installation 1.To install NEW wheel hub stud, lubricate hub bore and install stud. Place 4 washers onto stud and install stud nut with flat side to washers. Tighten stud nut to draw stud into hub bore. Remove nut and washers. Install hub and bearing assembly onto axle shaft. 2.To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Depress brake pedal several times to extend caliper piston after installation. 6/9/2009

it is 35 mm or 1 3/8

did you get er done?

no had to order socket.

i was told by a mechanic that i needed a wheel bearing job done to the front of my truck,however,i went online to research futher because after test driving the vechile i was right away quoted 500 for the work.online it stated that if i have tapered roller bearings that they could be cleansed,inspected and repacked with grease i was not informed that from the mechanic that tested drove the car is this a fact and how can i verify if i have tapered roller bearings? to you're knowledge does 2000 chevy blazers come with tapered roller bearings, and is the price 500 correct?

your vehicle's front wheel bearings can not be repacked and adjusted..they MUST be replaced. your rear wheel bearings however can indeed be repacked and adjusted.

the mechanic wants 700 altogether for the job. would it be cheaper for me to purchase the parts myself and save money? also could you tell me what parts i need to purchase for the wheel bearing job

for the repair you will need basic mechanics tools (i.e. drift punch, lug wrench, sockets etc...) and also a special service tool called a torsion bar unloader. the new parts needed are just the new hub / bearing assembly and if you choose to do brake replacement at this time you can get pads as well. $500 is a bit high for this repair, should ask around a few other well known reputable shops for quotes. $300 is more the price range for this repair on your vehicle, including parts.

is it a good idea to replace the driver side also, since i am doing the passage side? this really doesn't look like un doing it and the repair shop wants to charge $250.00 for just one side, which I relive I can do this my self. I can get both parts for $58.00 on line, where AutoZone wants wants $101.99 for just one side, which this I don't understand. what do you think? My son is the mechanic, but I love your answers on repairs and it is very good advice for me to know what or how the job it done. thanks for any feedback.

Good afternoon,

I think doing both sides is a good idea. If one side has failed the other is not far behind.

The hubs could be the ones made in China like with rockauto. But remember, shops are in business to make money, not give parts away. The price is a little high. Quality hubs are about $80.00 per side.

Roy

Removal Procedure


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1. Raise and support the vehicle with safety stands. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Unload the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement
3. Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
4. Apply the brake pedal.
5. Remove the drive axle nut.
6. Remove the drive axle washer.
7. Remove the rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement - Front in Brakes and Traction Control.


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8. Disengage the halfshaft from the wheel hub and bearing assembly. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the halfshaft in order to protect the halfshaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with a hammer. Do not attempt to remove the halfshaft from the hub and bearing assembly at this time.


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9. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt from the wheel hub and bearing assembly.
10. Remove the wheel speed sensor from the wheel hub and bearing assembly.


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11. Remove the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the steering knuckle mounting bolts.

Important: Lay the wheel hub and bearing assembly on the hub bolts on the outboard side. This prevents damage or contamination to the bearing seal.

HI! I like your initiative!
Wheel bearings do not need to be replaced in pairs. However, it's not bad idea to check the second side since you already have to tools out.
When looking at parts online, you will generally find them cheaper online than at your local parts store because they don't have to pay for as many buildings or employees. Generally, you will have to wait longer for your parts to arrive and they will be more difficult to warranty them out or exchange them if the wrong part arrives. So, you need to balance the pros and cons.
I am also including the remove and replace procedures. If you don't have a torque wrench maybe borrow your son's for the reassembly. The right torque is important. Good luck! Let us know how it turns out!

This is the install:

Installation Procedure

1. Install the wheel hub and bearing seal to the wheel hub and bearing assembly.
2. Install the splash shield to the steering knuckle. Align the shield to the steering knuckle.
3. Install the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the steering knuckle. Align the threaded holes.
4. Install the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the steering knuckle mounting bolts.
^ Tighten the wheel hub and bearing assembly to the steering knuckle mounting bolts to 105 Nm (77 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the wheel speed sensor to the wheel hub and bearing assembly.
6. Install the wheel speed sensor to the wheel hub and bearing assembly mounting bolt.
^ Tighten the wheel speed sensor to the wheel hub and bearing assembly mounting bolt to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
7. Install the rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Replacement - Front in Brakes and Traction Control.
8. Apply the brake pedal.
9. Install the drive axle washer.
10. Install the drive axle nut.
^ Tighten the drive axle nut to 140 Nm (103 ft. lbs.).
11. Install the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Wheels, Tires and Alignment.
12. Load the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement
13. Lower the vehicle.

Here is a video that can help

https://youtu.be/_FzmmBoa4Tg

Please let us know what happens.

When driving on freeway or turning I get a noise from the front of the vehicle.
Can you tell if it would be the drive shaft or the rod

Start with checking the wheel bearings for any movement, rock the wheel top to bottom, there should be no slack.

Have you solved this problem yet? If not, can you describe the noise (clicking, popping, roaring, etc). Does it change when you go around a curve, accelerate, or brake? Does it pull in any direction?

Have you checked the wheel bearings hubs yet, don't let this develop in a more serious problem.

Is it possible to replace the front wheel bearings without a bunch of specialty tools?

The whole front hub/wheel assembly is replaced as a unit. The bearing is not serviceable. The job does not require any special tools and it is fairly simple to do. I do suggest spraying some penetrating oil on all nuts and bolts before attempting to remove them--PB Blaster works great..

I have a 98 blazer and when i get going around 40 mph it makes a roaring noise or vibration from the front driver side. If i'm driving straight and at least 40 mph it makes this noise if i turn left the noise doesnt stop. However if I turn or swerve right at 40 mph the noise stops until the vehicle is straight again. The hubs all seem tight. Is this a wheel bearing out? And if so How do i tell which bearing is out? Thanks alot.

Sure sounds like the wheel bearing.Usually if you turn right and the noise goes away, it is the right side bearing.When the vehicle leans it takes some of the load off the inside wheel.Try lifting and supporting the front end and turning the wheel to see if you can hear it or if there is play in it.Common problem for those

My boyfriend recently forgot to tighten the lugs on the drivers side front tire. I drove approximately 30 miles or more with them loose. As a result, 3 studs broke off completely the next day after tightening lugs and driving to work. I replaced the studs and noticed a few days later a grinding and noise.Diagnosed it to be the wheel bearing. I removed the hub and the outer race, i believe its called, was broken off and there was a bearing completely missing inside . would the wheel bearing failure be caused by the loose lugs? And what else might have been affected by this? Im also replacing upper ball joint.

Probably is a result of the loose wheel nuts, as the wheel was flexing the load on the old bearings may have been just to much, i would as a precaution be checking the other side as well just to make sure that there is no excessive bearing play there as well.

I decided to order the hub for the other side. Now that i know how to replace it all it should be pretty easy. Considering the drivers side ball joint was a bitch to get out. I hammered at that thing for hours it felt like. I think i should replace the shocks too. I feel everything on rough roads. Even good roads feel kindav turbulent. How can i tell if they need to be replaced? That's what makes the turbulence go away right? The shocks?

Replace shocks if there is any sign of oil leaking at all. if gas filled, remove and feel for any slack in the shaft up and down, and pushing down full depression should be hard all the way the car should only rock 1 1/2 oscillations when rocked from side to side and let go, that's rule of thumb measurement, a suspension work shop can do a re bound test as well.

Thanks for any help anyone could give me. My driver side front axle seal went out. So I replaced it,the bearing I didn't think was too bad. But in less then a week the seal went out again. The bearing looks like it comes out fron the axel side.My question is how does the bearing come out ? Do i have to take the differential apart ? It has what looks like a large nut with a number of teeth on it. That seams to hold the bearing in.Does this come out ? If so how ? Are there any other reason the seal would go out and not be the bearing ?

frank dont touch that nut. your seal is leaking most likely from either a bad seal, wrong seal. if that bearing was gone your front diff would sound like a cement mixer. i have seen a few times that the seals are installed with the wrong seal, a little too big. make sure the next seal fits snug to the axle shaft and the axle shaft is not worn where the seal rides. also make sure the front diff is not overfull. and also make sure the vent tube on diff is clear

mastertechtim
I agree,the autopart store wherer my son picked it up 4 me said it would work.It was different.I say it was not the right size.I'll have to go to the dealer or somewhere to give me the right one.I still have the old one.I was told just because they don't look a like don't mean it wont work.

I didn't think to look at the shaft,if there was anythin g on it it would cut the seal.

IThere was some nose,but it was due to lost oil.
Thanks again
Frank

the axle shaft where the seal rides will have a ring worn in it. but its unlikely. my money is on the wrong seal. sorry for the delay

another note. the seal if you look at it to the right one from the dealer you should be able to see the inside diameter to be bigger on the aftermarket one. there has to be a fairly good size difference because it takes a real sloppy fit for a axle seal to leak. they dont have to be tight to not leak because the oil is so thick. even if there is a ring groove on axle, the right seal will in m ost cases work

When I push the button to shift to 4wd Hi. The light comes on and it looks like the Blazer is in 4WD but the front wheels do not lock in and turn. It appears the electronic portion is working properly because as I push the buttons it transfers from 2Hi to 4Hi and back when I push 2Hi. Should I look at a mechanism used to lock the hubs or are the hubs bad?

check the locking hubs by rotating the brake or rotor slightly and turning the hub selector into the lock position.A click should be hear when the hub engages and the axle should now turn with the hub.
Next ,with the still running ,turn the selector to the free position.
if it does not work as it should, the hub assembly needs repair.

I believe my hubs are automatic. I don't see a way to lock them on the wheels. I had an explorer in the past that had manual hub locks on the wheels but I don't see those on my chevy.

sorry for not been carefull to your input.
Look into the connection between
The electric shift motor and the transfer case .
or the problem is in the transfer case.
Had the system been scaned?

Hi i would look to the vacuum actuator between the transfer case and the front axle. the older modle are underneith the battery. that could be cause the front axle not to engage.

actually the switch on the front diff on that year is electronic, if the switch is working and you can hear the transfercase go into gear , it will most likely be the front differential locking switch , 12 bucks and easy to do

Ok the front wheels are engaged by a motor on the side of transfer case and it is controled by a module that is located behind kick panel on passenger side and you may hear it click when you hit the button but the motor maybe to week to engage the transfer case kind of like a weak window lift motor there is no vacuum actuator that shifts the transfer case im not sure what the actuator is for under the tray but it dont shift the transfer case the motor is what i would suspect if the light is on and no 4x4 engaged i could be wrong but my 2003 is not vacuum operated and it would not make since and it does not have locking hubs or automatic hubs for that matter