Idle Stop Solenoid NOT WORKING!

What happens when you turn on the A/C?

Thanks for answering my post.

I disconnected the A/C - i.e., I've removed the Compressor, Pulley Belt, etc., and, subsequently, secured the respective Electrical Connection to a Valve Cover hold-down appendage.

However, the 25A Fuse that supports the A/C also supports the Heater at that point, and, apparently, the Heater is working although I suspect that the A/C & Heater "Slide-Selector" on the Dashboard Control Panel might be somewhat damaged.

In trying to find an answer to my Idle Stop problem, I happened to come across a certain post whereby it was suggested that a simple way of determining whether or not an Idle Stop Soleniod (on my particular car) was operating properly was to "Turn-On" the Ignition Switch and then "Turn-it-Off": A properly "functioning" Idle Stop Solenoid's "Plunger" will be "Extended" and, then, "Retract" (to its previous position), respectively.

In my case, I am not seeing any Solenoid Plunger movement at all. Therefore, when my engine has reached Operating Temperature, and I move to put my foot on the brake in order to put my car in gear (Drive or Reverse), the engine will come uncomfortably close to stalling if I don't quickly depress the gas pedal.

I hope that this rather lengthy description of the Idle Stop Solenoid problem that I continue to experience might be advantageous to receiving a "final" answer to my question!

Thanks for your interest!

Do you have a test light? Repeat the key on and off and see if there is power. This is also tied in with the A/C circuit and raises idle when a/c is turned on, if a/c is disconnected in the manner you descibe, it might sabbotage the plunger cicuit! See if you can install a jumper wire on the a/c connector!

Yes, I do have a "Test Light", and I will put it to good use as you've suggested.

I'm aware that the Idle Stop Solenoid is on the same circuit as the A/C, and I've thought about the I.S.S. being effected by my disconnection of the A/C (Compressor).

Can you be a little more specific about how to "install a jumper wire on the A/C Connector"?

Thank you. (And, by the way, you can count on my vote & feedback!)

Yes I think if my memory serves...the compressor connector is a 2 wire? If so jump across them, if it works you can cut the connector and twist the wires together.

Thanks again for your responses.

If you'll give me a chance to put both of your excellent suggestions (the "Test Light", and, now, "Jumping" the A/C Compressor Connector) to the "Metal", I should be able to let you know the outcome by tomorrow - Friday evening.

Until then...

I'm afraid that I'm going to have to ask you to please bear with me for just a few more days: "Murphy's Law" came to visit me today - nothing major, but it stayed just long enough to take me away from conducting the tests that you so aptly advised me of.

I look forward to contacting you again within a very short period of time (2 - 3 days) with the results of the 2-tests so that I might learn of your next evaluation.

Thank you.

Your help & advice is very much appreciated!

Hello again! Sorry for the unforeseen interruption.

Well...I turned the Ignition Switch to "ON", and, with the aid of the Test Light, I tested for current at the Idle Stop Solenoid's terminal connector and, then, the A/C Compressor's 2-pronged Connector, as well.

Apparently, NO current was flowing to either of these connections.

Next, with the Ignition Switch still in the "ON" position, I tested all of the fuses/terminals in the Fuse Panel and, fortunately, every fuse/terminal was "alive n' kickin'!"

At this point, I decided that rather than take my waning patience for automotive troubleshooting to the "out-of-limits", I opted, instead, to invest in a "Haynes Chevrolet Full-Size Model 1969 thru 1990 Repair Manual" which contains "wiring diagrams" for all the various electrical systems - including all of those that apply to my 1977 Caprice Classic!

As it turns out, the Idle Stop Solenoid (attached to the 2BBL Carb) is NOT part of the "Starting, Charging and Ignition System" - as the Test Light indicated.

However, the I.S.S. IS present in my car's "Manual Heating/Air Conditioning System" - where it can ONLY be activated by "sliding" the console A/C Selector Switch to either the "Max", "Norm" or "Bi-Level" positions.

Sure enough, just as you had suggested at the outset, the Idle Stop Solenoid on my 1977 Chevrolet Caprice Classic is there just to compensate for the "power-loss" when the A/C is engaged - or so I surmise.

I assume that's the answer to my original "Idle Stop Solenoid NOT WORKING!" question.

Does any of this make sense to you?