Engine starting problems

This Tech bulliten is from Checvy to thier dealers. Probably your problem!
NO/HARD/SLOW START NOISE DURING CRANKING DTC P0338 TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Reference Number(s): 00-06-04-014, Date of Issue:  April, 2000 Related Ref Number(s): 00-06-04-014 ARTICLE BEGINNING NO, HARD, OR SLOW START, BACKFIRE OR "KICKBACK" DURING CRANK/START, "GRINDING" OR UNUSUAL NOISES DURING CRANK, DTC P0338 (REPLACE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR) Model(s): 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade; 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models; 1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models; 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L or 7.4 L Engine; VINs W, X, M, R, J - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29) Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014 Date: April, 2000 CONDITION Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions: Backfire during crank/start. • "Kickback" during crank/start. • "No" start. • "Slow" or "hard" start/crank. • "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start. • Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss. • Broken starter drive housing. • Broken starter ring gear on flywheel. • Any combination of the above. • CAUSE A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss.
CORRECTION Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear). NOTE: When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel. NOTE: Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal. PARTS INFORMATION Parts are currently available from GMSPO. WARRANTY INFORMATION For vehicles repaired under warranty, use: WARRANTY INFORMATION

There is no resistance to the start motor at all, it spins freely. If it were a sensor, would that allow the car to start after it sits for awhile?

Also, the service engine soon light is always on. It came on about a month ago right after I had the vehicle serviced.

This problem happened before and after the service engine soon light came on.

First thing to do is scan the codes, autozone does it for free, then post the codes here. Yes if the crank sensor develops a heat problem it can fail to start when hot, and start after a brief coll down period. The bulletin refer to code P0338, if that's stored in memory, definitely replace it, SCAN IT!

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

My 99 Astro AWD w/vortex V6 It's fine when it's dry. Replaced the cap and rotor, air filter no codes from diagnostic tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Without codes you would have to start with the basics. When it fails to start, something is missing and the above link explains what to look for.

I have a 1999 astro van, it died while driving. tried to restart and itll turn but it wont fire up. replaced the cap and rotors, plugs and wires, fuel pump replaced a year ago, i check spark it gets good spark and fuel pump is fine and pressure, but it wont fire up, have gas as well. what should I try now? Please help me because its my only ride to work

we ned actual pressure reading on the fuel pump. see if it starts if you squirt carb cleaner in the air filter. if it does, then i would look harder at the fuel pump.

Roy

I was trying to get my husband to do that, not sure if we have one of those tools, but he doesnt think its the pressure or pump, but I know you have to have 60-66 psi or it wont fire up

thats correct. tell him bascis, basics must be checked first.

Roy

were not getting spark now after the distibutor, does anyone know where the ICM is located on 1999 astro van?

My van will only start if i use stater fluid. after I spray a shot into the air intake hose just before the air filter it will kick over. I have replaced the battary and fuel pump it was needed. The check inginge light is on. also, i have replaced the distributer and tuned up the van complete. The windows on the drivers and passenger side will not go up or down they act as though they have to charge up and then will only move a inch or two. The back door will not open it seems to be jammed I cannot get it loose to open it. thanks for your time. I hope there is a answer or suggestion.

go to your local parts place and have the computer scanned, jot the codes down and bring them back to me for further diagnosis, if I had to guess, I still say that fuel pressure regulator, or cam sensor is faulty, and a fuel filter may need changing, but it is obviously a fuel problem,as it will start with a shot of ether.

are you getting it into the distributor?? is there any coming out of the coil??

Roy

yes, we replaced all of that, it getting sparks everywhere after the coil and distributor...put fuel in throttle body, dont have tool to test pressure gauge it seems fine has plenty of spark just wont start! how can you tell if injectors are spitting out fuel?

ok, now it has spark.

did it start for a second when you put fuel in the intake??

you can tell by removing a plug and see if it is wet with fuel

Roy

were going to rent fuel pressure gauge tool to check pressure, but we just checked if plugs were wet with fuel and they are not, they are dry it wouldnt be the camshaft sensor maybe? were running out of ideas thanks for helping

Electrical problem
1999 Chevy Astro 6 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 99 Chevy Astro, last week it took 3 times to get it started(motor turned but no start), then it happened again a few hours later, luckly i made it back home, next day it would'nt start, same crank but no start, I replaces the fuel filter and fuel pump, after this it started ok, but abought 1 hr later, it would not start again, so i pulled the fuel pump back out and replaced it with another new one, now im back to square one, motor turns but no pump, i shortd the pump relay and canot hear the pump, PLEASE HELP..

Check ECM B 20amp fuse if okay-If relay don't energize when key is in run for 2 secs-You have a problem with the computer fuel pump relay control circuit-Relay energizes check for power on the gray wire on the fuel pump connector.

you need to check fuel pressure. i bet that is your failure.

Roy

Wire harness from fuel pump to Connector where Ground connects on chassie near front of fuel tank had bad connection on Gray wire, reconnected and seems to be good now, thanks for you help.

so we tested the fuel pressure and it is fine, we tested it like four times. We bought fuel pressure regulator to see if that will help...not sure what else to do...dont think its the fuel pump

what was the pressure reading??

Roy

it read 70 psi

you said when you sprayed carb cleaner into the air filter, it did not start?? it should for a couple of seconds.

none of this makes sense. you said you have spark, 70 lbs of fuel pressure. it should start.

does the check engine light come on??

Roy

1999 chevrolet astro van was running fine parked it over nite tried to start it it fired a few times sputtered but no start now it won't even do that it just cranks tried spraying starter fluid into the air intake and nothing

Check for spark?

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark?

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,cap and rotor,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing.

no check engine light doesnt come on, spark plugs are dry, my husband was a mechanic and this one has him baffled.....

what tells the injectors to spit the fuel out?

if there is no light, check the fuse for the pcm. it may not be giving any commands.

the pcm turns the injectors on and off based on inputs from other sensors.

Roy

we checked all the fuses in the fuse block and under the dash where all the fuses are and they all light up and have power

we checked the spider fuel injectors and everything is good and working, and no leaks etc... not sure what else to do? could it be the timing? should we try TDC check?

Engine Mechanical problem
1999 Chevy Astro 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 98.000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
This morning my wife went out and and she said van tooka few tries before it would start. I wentto work and it started fine. It started fine when I Left work and when i went to the store it was fine. WHen i got back in at the store it wouldn't start. I keep cranking it and it just won't turn over. Any Ideas on what this could be?

Do below -determine what's missing fuel or spark then comeback

Do you have a check engine light On or flashing prior to this problem?

If the engine's condition is in tip top shape-do below to determine if its fuel or spark problem that's if its cranking over and refuses to start

Get a carb cleaner and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors-

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time

So you know I'm an idiot when it cones to cars,,, I knew my last car good but the astro is new to me. I canty even see where the plugs are.

I have a full tank so other than that i'm not sure how to check for missing fuel.

No the engine light didn't come on prior, when I crank it all lights come on and when i stop and key is still in, the engine light goes out,,, sounds like its cranking over but but just not catching, RUm rum rum over and over. Don't know what an EFI is.

Sir
An EFI ( Electronic Fuel Injection )

Get a carb cleaner and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? Did you do this-if not best do it to determine if its fuel or spark then comeback for more assistance-

a granchild pumped the tank full of water. The owner then added more gas and tried starting it. it then sat for 6 months. it was then brought to me ! i took and dumped the fuel,cleaned the rust out,removed the debris. I also replaced the fuel pump,fuel filter and replaced the gas which to which I added 4oz of Marvel Mystery Oil and 12oz of Valvoline water remover...I changed the spark plugs and yes ! even the camshaft position sensor. I have taken a fuel pressure reading at the schrader valve and have 63psi ....the vehicle briefly starts and runs with ether sprayed into the airbox...please help !!!!!!!!!!

If it runs with either, then it isn't getting fuel. Since you have fuel pressure at the rail, check to see if the injectors are getting power.

Also, did you blow the water out of the fuel lines and rail?

yes the fuel rails were blown free....I just got the van fired up by ultilizing a friend to keep the van running by continous spraying of ether into the throttle body. it now is running but very roughly....a code scan shows an obd II code of 300....I rechecked the plug wires making sure they were 3 1 5 on the driver's side 2 4 6 on the passenger's side... firing order is 1,6,5,4,3,2 .....I believe the cap , rotor,and plug wires are due for changing.

my fuel pump was whining really loud and quit and the van stop running going down the road. my check guages and check engine light came on and the van will not start all the relay are good and the fuel pump is good. the motor was replace about 2 months. the fuel pump does not come on at all but its ok. Im not shure what it is, im think electrical but dont know where to start looking

Are you saying the pump won't even prime, when you turn on the key, no crank?

If your saying you have good spark at the plugs, during cranking and it's just a fuel pump issue, start at the fuel pump relay. One of those terminals at the relay, should be hot all the time, D1 terminal. If it isn't hot, go to the ecm B fuse, not only check the fuse,but, check that one of the fuse terminals is hot.

My information shows D1 and C3 terminals at the relay connector are for the switch side of the relay. You might doublecheck by looking at the diagram on the relay. If D1 is hot and you use a jumper to C3 from D1 at the socket, by the way you probably should use an inline fuse on the jumper, just in case, the pump should run like crazy, if it doesn't, there something wrong with the voltage circuit--- ground circuit or the pump.

It could be the computer isn't energizing the relay for some reason, but, even without the proper rotational signals, the pump should still prime at key on. That's how I see it.