How to reset check engine light?

Hi,

If you need to simply reset the check engine light, here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/check-engine-light-clear-codes

Here is the issue, if you are referring to the monitors' readiness resetting, this will not do it. Actually, it will cause all monitors to start over.

If it is the monitor readiness you are waiting for, it needs to be driven.

Let me know specifically what you are trying to do.

Joe

So, the check engine light is on for those two codes and my I/M monitors are red except for the heater I’m trying to get the check engine light off, so I don’t have to look at it anymore and I’ll try the Drive cycle for the emissions.

I’ve tried to clear the codes, but it keeps coming back after I drive it and turn the car off and turn it back on.

Hi,

Are the same codes returning after you reset it? They are, as I'm sure you are aware, to the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. If they have been replaced, there is still an issue. If both came on at the same time, there is a chance the timing belt is stretched or there is an electrical issue such as a poor connection, damaged wire, or even an issue with the PCM.

Let me know if they are the same codes that return.

Let me know.

Joe

Sorry for the late reply, but these are the other codes it throws up when I was investigating further.

Hi,

The codes indicate a timing-related issue. The timing between the crankshaft and camshafts is off.

Now, that can be the result of a faulty camshaft position actuator valve, a timing belt that has jumped time, or even stretched timing belt.

Has the timing belt ever been replaced? When it is running, does it seem to have normal power and run smoothly?

If you look below, I attached the diagnostics and descriptions of these codes. Note: they are both listed together.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

So, the car feels like it wants to go but I have to push on the pedal twice for it to go faster but I don’t know. I don’t know if the timing belt has been changed but I’m thinking more than likely not. I recently got ahold of a mechanic to see if he knows anything about it. He told me it might be the timing belt and he mentioned that if I replaced the timing belt it’s better to replace the water pump also instead of dealing with it later.

Hi,

It is very possible that the belt has stretched, or even jumped. If it has never been replaced, that is a good idea to at least have it inspected.

The idea that the water pump should be done at the same time makes sense as well. If you don't replace it and it fails, you will have to basically pay the same for labor to replace the pump by itself as you did for the entire belt procedure.

If you plan to do it yourself, I attached the directions below.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.