How to change the transmission fluid and filter?

Dropping the fluid and filter isn't bad. Put it on a lift, remove the plastic panels under the engine and transmission. With that out of the way you can access the drain plug (yellow circle), to start draining the fluid. Now remove the tunnel cross member and the cross support. Be sure to support the transmission when you remove the crossmember. Now you can remove the pan following the Reverse bolt sequence (start at 13 and finish at 1). Lower the pan and the filter will be right there. It pulls down to remove, verify that the seal comes out with it. Install the new seal on the new strainer and push it into place. Install the new pan gasket and pan and tighten the bolts in sequence. (2.5 Nm +90 degrees) Now reinstall the crossmember and X brace. Now you need the hook shaped fluid filler to insert into a hole in the inner cap of the check port (green circle) Add fluid until it drips. Now start the engine and run the transmission through the gears, hold in each gear a few seconds. Shut the engine off, add and check the fluid level. When it slows to a few drips, remove the fill hook and install the check plug. Reinstall the undercar covers.

I always knew a day would come where i would use this hook lol, never knew it will be for something like this. What holds the fluid from coming down when i open the plug a second time to check and add after its warm? Any specific temperature they mention?

No temperature listed, it's just to be sure the passages are filled before the last check. As long as it's level there shouldn't be much leakage anyway.

That's the first German car i have to do an ATF change to without having the engine running, just wow, lol. That is easier. Do you know what capacity should be for a drain and fill?

This is what they show for the trans -
Planetary Gearbox Capacity .................... 10.4 liters
Front Final Drive Capacity .................... 1.0 liters
Transfer case Capacity .................... 1.0 liters

I dropped the pan, this is some weird level check piece in the pan, never seen it before, i guess this is why they want one to use the hook and check the level while engine is off.

The thing is also that it does have a fill aluminum plug on side of the transmission.

Sounds typical of the ones I've worked on. They used the same case that had dip sticks and fill plugs and just changed the procedure when they decided the units were "lifetime fluids". Chrysler did the same with theirs, they put a solid plug in the dipstick tube and added a check tube to the pan.

So it can be filled from fill plug or the bottom one, but i think the weird pan one which you would use the hook engine cannot be running, so warm it up then turn it off.

You can fill it with either, but there is no way to check it without using the lower pan tube, so the hook makes sense.

Using the hook didn't work. Car was off and anytime i pumped some in it would start seeping immediately from there. Used the side fill plug.

Was that with an empty pan? The hook can be tricky to get into the window inside it.

Yes, it was empty, hooks go in right and there are 2 holes for it, but using either one immediately seeps fluid, weird. I just filled it through the fill plug, warmed up, then filled again. thanks

Yeah, that's odd. Well, you got it filled so it should be good.