After replacing the transmission solenoid pack, transmission is not shifting properly and codes p0736, p1603 and U0101

From the description you really need a dealer level scan tool to watch the various sensor signals on the transmission. The P0882 showed low power to the transmission control unit, which could be a wiring short, but it could also be a failed PCM. The P1603 and U0101 are codes relating to the transmission controller not being able to communicate with the PCM or internal faults of the PCM. So that also points to it either having no power or internal failure. The P0736 would make sense in that the transmission section of the PCM controls all of the shifting and gear changes using the pressure in the transmission. If it has a power issue or internal failure it would set codes like that. As to needing a dealer, not true, you just need a better shop that can actually do diagnostic work.
The other item is the leak into the connector, those can cause all kinds of issues because it will short wires that should never connect and send bad info or voltages into the PCM and cause it to fail.
I would check the powers and grounds for the PCM as Chrysler has had a lot of issues with both of those and either can cause problems. As it starts and runs, I suspect it is more on the ground side, all four of the transmission related grounds go to the same point as shown in the third image, those multi wire connections like to fail.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Hello again Mr. Steve. So here is where I am at. I didn't like the way the battery terminal looked so I changed it. So far, no communication codes. I checked the transmission fluid by the light of day and added some and now its smack dab in between the holes for hot when the car is warmed up. It went into drive, did not shut off, and actually went forward though the initial engagement was a little rough. The only thing right now is it is going throw that P0736 code again and it won't move in reverse. How could changing the solenoid pack cause this problem? Baffling to say the least, for me anyway. Do you have any suggestions? I feel like I am so close. I just hope this can be rectified without great difficulty. Thank you so much for your time and help.

Was the pack a new pack or used? Either way it could be a bad solenoid, or something got into the passages. I would start by checking the connectors pins over real well, it's possible that the one for reverse is loose or corroded and not making contact, or the one for the speed sensor has an issue and is not seeing the correct signal when it goes into reverse. Does it try to move at all in reverse? Even loading the engine would be a sign that it isn't fully internal, but if you can shift into reverse and nothing happens then I would check the wiring first, a somewhat easy test would be to use the autostick and shift it down to first gear, does it move then? The same solenoid controls both low and reverse, just applies a different clutch to give you reverse. So, if it starts out in first and shifts up through each gear manually the solenoid itself likely isn't the issue.

The pack is new. When I put it in reverse the first time after starting, I feel the kick of it engaging but after that it feels like it does when I put it in neutral if that makes sense. It just revs when I give it gas. Drive gives quite a kick too, but it will move. Maybe some old gasket got in. The entire gasket was welded to the transmission, and I did the best I could but, the whole procedure was literally a pain. No room to work. I have checked the circuits and connectors, but it won't hurt to doublecheck. I haven't done the autostick but will first thing in the morning. I did not change the fluid or filter and I regret that now. Do you think a flush would be beneficial? Listen, you have no idea how much I appreciate your guidance. Thank you seems so insignificant but thank you just the same.

That description sounds like the solenoid isn't working, the kick in drive could be that it isn't engaging low gear and instead is starting out in second gear. With the old pack you had the error, but it worked in all gears, correct? If so, I would take a meter and test the solenoids for resistance, that can be done from the wiring connector. Take a meter set to resistance and connect one terminal to pin 4 on the transmission connector, then measure the resistance between it and pins 4,5,6 and 7 in turn. The readings at each one should be almost exactly the same. If that checks out, then it's likely that something got into the passage for reverse/low. If that is the case, then about the only way to get it out would be pulling the transmission pan and pulling the valve body apart to remove whatever is blocking the flow of fluid.
Removing it isn't really hard but it's messy.
First thing is to remove the battery and tray so you can get to the manual shift lever on the transmission. Make sure it is in low when you do that as it makes it easier.
Next you remove the pan and filter, next you remove the bolts that holt the valve body to the case. Now you need to grab the parking roller from the guide. Then remove the valve body. Tag the two accumulators that are in the case.
Before doing this though you need to be sure you have a scan tool available to do the relearn procedure. I might even try a relearn before you start pulling parts.

Mr. Steve, I did what you told me to no avail so I will check the resistance and see what's up. When I put the car on autostick the number 2 lit up. Should there not be a 1? It would not change either and I am under the impression that it can start out in third as well as second but please correct me if I am wrong. Now, about the relearn. I have little knowledge on that subject, (Actually, all these subjects.). I wasn't sure if my car needed it after the solenoid change, and honestly, I forgot to ask. Is this something any shop can do? I had no problems with my transmission itself, just the P0882 and as far as I can tell that is gone. I will let you know tomorrow what I find. You are turning into my favorite person real fast. Thank you!!!

It should go as low as one normally when it is selected manually. Relearn should be performed after most transmission repairs. You need a scan tool that can do bidirectional control to do it and that depends a lot on the shop's tools.

Mr. Steve, Hi.

Can you expand on what you mean by grabbing the parking roller from the guide? I had a stripped bolt, but I finally made it this far. It is going to start pouring rain of course, working on my car is the Western rain dance, but I am so close. Thanks

There is a roller that sets at the end of the park lever inside the transmission, image attached. You need to remove it to get the lever out and not let it fall into the case and cause problems.

Well, I am glad I was messing with the right thing, but how do you get the roller off? Was out there on the wet ground for hours. The car won that battle. Thanks

Transmission should be in low to get it loose, but it doesn't hurt to move the linkage to get it to drop free. I would be sure to put a big sheet under the car if you are doing this with the transmission in the car as the removal of the valve body will drop the check balls free and they love to hide. I would also suggest getting the one-year subscription to Alldata DIY for that vehicle, it has the full-service info for this procedure as well as showing where each ball goes. Runs about $20.00 but only covers one vehicle, you can print or same images in higher resolution as well.

Hello again, thanks for the check ball advice, it was a concern of mine not to mention I'm a Murphy's law kind of gal. I have the Mitchell's DIY, but couldn't find what I needed so I will indeed get the other manual. One last thing, I hope. Do you know where I might could get a replacement bolt for the stripped one? Been looking but I get different results daily and it gets confusing real fast. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

Hmm Mitchell should have the same info I posted above; they both mostly copy the OE information. We use both but I prefer Alldata as I'm used to using it, Mitchell tends to move things around, so it takes more to dig them out. Take a look under transmission, procedures, removing valve body. As for stripped bolts, best solution would be to use a Heli coil kit to repair threads and for replacement bolts I tend to hit you pull its or just order the bolts through a dealer if they are something odd. You might find some metric bolts in places like Lowes or a good hardware store or McMaster-Carr but they can take a while to find on their site.

Okay, my good man. I shall follow your advice and can't thank you enough for everything. Of course my rain dance worked all too well, but at first ray of sunshine I am going to get to it. With highest regards to you!

So, you're the one who is flooding my place huh, Thanks a lot. LOL. No rush, we'll be here, I know what it's like to have an open roof shop.

I did find what I need in the Mitchell so I might just swan dive on out to my car and try, try again. My luck there is an under toe...

Good luck, Take a snorkel and swim fins... Hopefully, whatever is blocking the flow will show up in one of the valves. Trying to get in deeper isn't fun. I think they do show the fluid paths on there as well so you might be able to use some air pressure on the passages to be sure they are clear.

You have no idea how many times I have said, "If this isn't it, I am done!". But seriously, if this isn't it, I will be needing a snorkel and fins for that creek I have been frequenting via my car no less. I should just get it over with and become a guide. Still having a heck of a time with this final task. I'm going to check it out with a camera and hopefully crack the code. These Pts are brutal! You are a port in this S#&% storm. Thank you

Hello Sir Steve, I have a question. So, When I took the cable off the manual lever and moved it to low, it was kind of a hard turn and skipped and clicked. I was under the car and had asked my husband to move it so I could better get to the rollers. When he did that, I could tell it moved a lot quicker and smoother. I wasn't sure how it was supposed to be but have since found out smooth and quick is the ticket. I am wondering if the problem could have caused it or if it caused the problem? Am I making sense, or have I finally lost it? lol What are your thoughts?

As long as the lever moves it will shift, but it's possible that whatever is causing the fluid issue is in the main control spool that the lever moves. I'm hoping that you pull the VB off and find a piece of gasket material in one of the check balls or sticking a piston open or closed. Then you can reverse the process and have a working vehicle again. Just don't be like this person...

Hello, I finally got it out! Then sat for hours trying to remove another seized screw. I woke up with a screwdriver in my hand. Anyway, should all the valves move freely? I guess I have to take them apart to clean them. I am trying to not get intimidated. I should be an expert in auto part photography by the time I am done.

Some will move free; others have springs and detent like spots where the fluid moves them. Hey, no sleeping on the job... LOL First thing will be to examine everything and look for crud that isn't supposed to be there, the fluid passages should be clear and only have clean fluid, it doesn't take much to bind up a shuttle valve or one of the spools. Take your time and if you hit a snag, take a break, or a shot. Transmissions use a bit of magic in the way they work. If you can clean out all the passages using a white rag to catch anything that might come out, if you clean it all and find nothing it's probably farther in or stuck in a passage.

Okay, I'm on it. And I don't think I was asleep; I think I passed out! Lol I have already removed some debris and, yes, a small bit of gasket. Well, here goes nothing!

It really doesn't take much to stop them. Back when I was still racing, I made a pass and the transmission suddenly refused to shift up, this wasn't a good thing. Tore the entire thing apart just to find nothing, until I was starting to put it back together, that was when I discovered a small slit in one of the seals, under high pressure it would expand and bind the spool in place.
I'm sure you will find the issue. While you have things open you might want to check any wiring as well, the insulation they use these days causes issues if you look at the stuff the wrong way. Then get it all back together and go for a cruise...

I am kind of surprised at the debris I have found. All pretty minute, but still there none the less. The chunk of gasket was actually the burnt on crud from the housing. My bad. I hope it is as easy to get back together as you make it sound. Lol I am indeed taking my time because I got to make time for all the praying. I just sip on Long Islands, so I don't have to decide what to take a shot of. Just simplifying what I can. I shall raise a toast to you, maybe two.

Hi Steve, or shall I call you Speed? Ugh, that was feeble at best. The fairgrounds where I live is a block and a half behind us and there is a racetrack. I haven't been to a race, but it is so close I sing the anthem with them. I am certain my racing skills would be several steps above my rendition. Thank goodness the bar is low because my mechanical skills? Fact is I saw my cousin working on a car one day and it occurred to me that if can do it, I can do it. I think he was changing a relay.... Anyway, I think I can start trying not to screw things up but, for one thing, the accumulators came flying out and I don't know which spring goes where. Also, there are two blue wire/probe looking things hanging from my car and I hope that's not a bad thing. It's going to be a process because I have to go to you pull it for bolts. Shouldn't be a problem finding what I need as every ypi I have been to seems to have plenty of PTs in stock. I can't imagine why... Oh wait, yes, yes, I can. Again, thank you seems so insignificant.

I would go hunt up one that was wrecked on the engine side or body and pull the entire transmission out. Gives you a parts source and lets you figure out how it comes out. The reason to look for one that was wrecked is that usually means it was running and moving at the time and engine and transmission are likely okay. Stay away from the ones that look like they drove in under their own power for driveline parts, if they were not damaged why are they there? Those are good for body parts, but they could be electrical or mechanical nightmares. They are good learning tools though.
For the springs you might want to look up an exploded view of that transmission, Transgo, Sonnax and others have them and show the various small parts and the part numbers which can help determining what goes where.

Okay, been out of commission for a minute. I thought about getting a whole car for parts but have nowhere to put it. I think i can see which spring goes where and I bet I know where the probe thingies go too. Of course, it only rained a time or two while I was down. Let's see what kind of storm I can whip up this time.

Good to hear you are making progress. it can be daunting if you haven't worked on them before.

Hello Steve, I hope you remember me. I have just now gotten back to my car because of, well, life. In any event, I ended up getting a replacement valve body and just put it in. The battery needs charging so it won't start, but would that cause the car not to go into gear? Do I need to do anything with the manual lever? It sucks because I had to wait so long and I am trying to remember everything, but alas, I am getting old. Thank you so much. And I am sorry, I didn't realize so much time had gone by. My husband had many major medical issues and was in hospital numerous times. He is doing better now but had to retire. I desperately want my car going and I hope you are still willing and able to help me. Either way your help so far has been awesome.

Well, I got it to start. It is doing the same thing it did before. It kicks when I put it into reverse, feels like it engaged but it won't move, little kick when moved to neutral, then shuts off when I put it in drive. Do you think it could be a bad solenoid pack even though it's new? Is there a certain way the manual shift lever should go? There are more codes now too. P0732 P0846 andP0871. Can't afford to take it to a shop now more than ever. I am a big girl, so I am not going to cry, on the outside.

Well, those are all transmission codes. Basically, pressure in the transmission isn't correct and it's causing issues. Likely it is the reason for the stalling. I would start it and let it run a bit, then erase the codes and cycle through the gears again to see which ones come back.
The 846 (circuit B) and 871 (circuit A) are both pressure sensor circuit codes, the 732 is incorrect gear ratio, which basically means the PCM is seeing that the transmission is in a gear, but the output of the transmission isn't moving.
I doubt it's the new pack. It sounds more like something in the wiring, like corrosion or a pinched wire.

I have done your first suggestion, but one more time won't hurt. Might you have a direction as to what wires to start with? I checked many, many wires and connectors because of the p0882. Should I start there again? You know, I don't know that I can flush the fluid if the dang car isn't going into gear, can I? I haven't tried yet but removed the cooling line and got some fluid out and it doesn't look bad, I guess because half has already been changed. Just thought a flash would be good considering the work. Thanks for the quick get back.

If the engine runs, you get fluid flow as the pump is turning. To see if the issue is a faulty switch or two or if it's something internal you could use a meter to probe the switch outputs at the transmission connector. The switches should both be open with the engine running in park, as well as open when the engine is off with the key on. Ground one lead of the meter and probe the yellow with black and the orange with black wires on pins 1 and 3. With the key off you should read a resistance and not a direct to ground.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter
If you see a direct short, then there is a wiring problem or the switch you are testing is stuck closed.

Sorry to hear about the spouse. Sounds like he got hit like I did. Just paid off my bill last week, it was over 6 digits at the start.

I hope you are doing okay. I worked at a hospital for 20 years and am still amazed at how much everything costs. My husband has serious heart problems so, yeah, he's in the triple digit club too. Try to stay well. We diy-er's need you, lol! So, I printed my wiring diagrams and shall start poking around tomorrow. Wish me luck. Thank you, my good man!

Good day to you sir, I hope all is well. So, today I did the flush. At first, the car did nothing when put in reverse, but the drive kicked in and actually moved but, when reverse started to kick but not kick in, it suddenly started stalling in drive. This was happening as I slowly added the fluid. Now that the fluid is at a good level the car does the die in drive thing. I am going to start testing wires, but I just wanted to ask if something like the od and ud accumulator springs could cause this kind of problem? When I dropped the VB the springs and accumulators went flying. No biggy except one has one spring and the other has two. I researched as best as I could and think I put them back where they belong. Also, the car is acting like it did after the solenoid pack and before the BV. Still, I am guessing those springs could get sprung and lose their function so I thought I would ask. As always, you rock!

The springs in wrong could cause problems like you have, as the pressures could be wrong. There should be a parts breakdown showing the springs like the attached.

That is beautiful! And it is the first I have seen of it. Looking at this breakdown, I see the springs in question, but alas, one of mine has 2 springs, I believe it is the underdrive accum. Also, this is what was happening after the solenoid change but, before the valve body change. I deduced the spring w/small spring belongs to the underdrive by faint markings on the plate. I put it closest to the front of the car. I am sure it is possible that I could recreate the symptoms if I was mistaken. But that would not tell me how the first symptoms arrived. Oh, and generic code p0700 pending, and freezeframe shows P0736 though there might be more, but I am not sure when the codes will set especially since the car is back to not moving again. I will do my wires first thing tomorrow. I am trying not to overthink this. And while I know this, for now, is way beyond me, I figure I've little to lose because if I don't try the car will just sit in my driveway looking pretty until it doesn't anymore. Honestly, I dig the challenge but, certainly welcome and appreciate the help. And did I mention your patience?

The 2-4 accumulator has 2 springs as does the low reverse. The under and overdrives should have a single spring. However, the springs are also different strengths depending on location. These might help a bit.

https://at-manuals.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/manuals/A604_Rebuild_Procedures%20repair.pdf
https://at-manuals.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/manuals/A60440TE%20CAtalog.pdf

When I removed the valve body two pistons came tumbling out as well as two springs and one of those had a smaller spring inside it. I never touched the low/reverse accumulator because as you know, it isn't part of that removable valve body. I am so confused right now! I am thinking I need to go back in there and see what the heck is going on! Do you concur? There is a sticker on my transmission that says something like proudly remade in the USA. Do you think it is a rebuild and they messed it up and that is why the sticker doesn't say proudly remade correctly in the USA? Could a mistake like that cause all of these problems starting with the p0882? Or am I getting all worked up over nothing? Or (And let this be the right or!), might you have diagnosed my car without laying a hand or eye on it? I sure could use a reason to celebrate!