Engine stalls while driving?

Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, if the vehicle cut off while driving, I don't understand why the starter was replaced. Also, can you tell me where the smoke came from? It may have been the starter itself if you were trying for an extended time. As far as the it starting and then turning off when you try to drive it, it could be a few different issues.

First, will it continue to idle after starting of you don't put it in gear? Does it start and then just turn off? Have you ever had the fuel filter replaced? Does the check engine light stay on when the engine does run?

I am going to provide a few different checks for you. They may seem difficult, but if you follow the directions, you should be fine. Also, if you confirm a specific problem when testing, I did provide the directions for repair.

If the light stays on, there will be diagnostic trouble codes stored in the car's computer. You need to scan the computer to retrieve these codes. Here is a quick video showing how that is done.

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a parts store will lend or rent one to you. If the light is staying on, try to get a scanner and do what is shown int the video.


Next, low fuel pressure ( a bad pump or plugged filter ) can cause this too. Here is a link that shows how to test fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are specific directions for testing fuel pressure for your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

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Step 1

COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
OPTIMA(TF/QF) 2015 G 2.4 GDI THETA II Engine Control / Fuel System

Fuel Pressure Test (Low pressure system)

1. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

CAUTION:

When removing the fuel pump relay, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may occur. Delete the code with the GDS after completion of "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work.

2. Install the Special Service Tool (SST).

(1)Disconnect the low pressure fuel feed tube from the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump.

CAUTION:

There may be some residual pressure even after "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work, so cover the hose connection with a shop towel to prevent residual fuel from spilling out before disconnecting any fuel connection.

(2)Install the special service tool for measuring the fuel pressure in between the low fuel feed tube and the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump (Refer to the figure below).


picture 1


3. Inspect fuel leakage on connections among the low fuel feed tube, the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump, and the SST components with IG ON.

4. Measure Fuel Pressure.

(1)Start the engine and measure the fuel pressure at idle.

Fuel Pressure:
480 - 520 kPa (4.9 - 5.3 kgf/cm2, 69.6 - 75.4 psi)

NOTICE:

If the fuel pressure differs from the standard value, repair or replace the related part (Refer to the table below).


picture 2


(2)Stop the engine, and then check for the change in the fuel pressure gauge reading.

Standard Value:
The gauge reading should hold for about 5 minutes after the engine stops

NOTICE:

If the gauge reading should not be held, repair or replace the related part (Refer to the table below).


picture 3


(3)Turn the ignition switch OFF.

5. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

CAUTION:

When removing the fuel pump relay, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) may occur. Delete the code with the GDS after completion of "Release Residual Pressure in Fuel Line" work.

6. Test End

(1)Remove the Special Service Tool (SST) from the low pressure fuel feed tube and the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump.

(2)Connect the low pressure fuel feed tube and the low pressure inlet of high pressure fuel pump.

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If the fuel pump fails and needs replaced, here are the directions for replacement. The attached pictures correlate with the directions. If the pump pressure is within the manufacturer's specifications listed in the above directions, skip the next step and move to step 3.

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Step 2
REPAIR PROCEDURES
OPTIMA(TF/QF) 2015 G 2.4 GDI THETA II Engine Control / Fuel System

Removal

[Type1 for TF]

1. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

2. Remove the fuel pump service cover (A) in the trunk.


picture 4


3. Disconnect the fuel pump connector (A) and the fuel tank pressure sensor connector (B).

4. Disconnect the fuel feed tube quick connector (C).

5. Remove the fuel pump plate cover (D) after removing the bolts.


pic 5


6. Remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

picture 6


[Type2 for QF]

1. Release the residual pressure in fuel line .

2. Remove the fuel pump service cover (A) in the trunk.


picture 7


3. Disconnect the fuel pump connector (A) and the fuel tank pressure sensor connector (B).

4. Disconnect the fuel feed tube quick connector (C) and the vapor tube quick-connector (D).

5. Remove locking ring (E) by use the special service tool [SST No. : 09310-2S200].


picture 8


6. Disconnector the vapor tube quick-connector (A) at the fuel pump, and then remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.


picture 9



picture 10



Installation

1. Installation is reverse of removal.

CAUTION:

Be careful of fuel pump direction (Refer to the groove in the fuel tank).

Fuel pump installation bolt :

2.0 - 2.9 N.m (0.2 - 0.3 kgf.m, 1.4 - 2.2 lb-ft)

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Step 3

If fuel pressure is good, my next suspect is a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through this link and let me know if it mirrors what you are experiencing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

If it does, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

If the description in the symptoms link fit your problem, follow step 4. Keep in mind, the best way to check the sensor is using a live data scanner to see if the engine's RPM signal is lost when it stalls. If it does, the sensor is most likely bad or there is a wiring problem

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for sensor replacement. Again, the attached pictures correlate with these directions.
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Step 4

OPTIMA(TF/QF) 2015 G 2.4 GDI THETA II Engine Control / Fuel System

Note: The last two pictures show sensor location and the sensor.



Removal

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the battery negative (-) cable.

2. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor connector (A).


picture 11


3. Remove the protector (A).


picture 12


4. Remove the installation bolt (A), and then remove the crankshaft position sensor.


picture 13



Installation

CAUTION:

Install the component with the specified torques.

Note that internal damage may occur when the component is dropped. If the component has been dropped, inspect before installing.

CAUTION:

Apply the engine oil to the O-ring.

CAUTION:

Insert the sensor in the installation hole and be careful not to damage.

1. Installation is reverse of removal.

Crankshaft position sensor installation bolt:
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb-ft)

Crankshaft position sensor protector installation bolt (M6):
9.8 - 11.8 N.m (1.0 - 1.2 kgf.m, 7.2 - 8.7 lb-ft)

Crankshaft position sensor protector installation bolt (M8):
18.6 - 23.5 N.m (1.9 - 2.4 kgf.m, 13.7 - 17.4 lb-ft)

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Pictures 14 and 15 indicate sensor location and sensor.


Let me know what you find or if you have questions.

Joe

Was driving and car shut off, tried to start the car and it wouldn't start and smoke started coming from the motor that smelled like something electric. parked the car for hours tried to start it and it wouldn't even crank; lights and everything came on but wouldn't start or try to turn over.

Hello,

I'm Tom, that doesn't sound to good. First off if you had smoke and a burning smell you need get a good flash light and look over all the wires, harnesses and vacuum lines and see if you can identify what was burning. If you do see something take a pic and upload it here. Right before it happened did the oil light come on? When you put the key into the crank position are you getting any sound, like a click or anything at all sound wise? Do the dash light dim or go out when its in the crank position?

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Pull the oil dip stick out check for it being low and smell the oil for a burnt smell too and let me know what you find.
Tom

Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

When my engine is warm and you are stopped with foot on the brake, if you honk the car the engine shuts off. Took it to shop. They said the clock spring burned up. Replaced it. Car still shutting off. Back in shop. Now the crankshaft sensor is supposed to be the problem. Said when it shorted out, it also shorted out the clock spring.
Does this sound logical?

No. They are guessing but their dart is not hitting the board.

The first thing I would do is unplug both horns under the hood, then see if the engine stalls when you press the horn button. If it does not, the best suspect is the horns use a ground wire and where that is bolted to the body, it is shared with other ground wires for some engine sensors, and that terminal is loose.

If the engine still stalls when the horn button is pressed, you will need a scanner to see what the engine computer is seeing and is responding to. That will show which circuit needs further diagnosis.

since I took it to the Kia dealership I noticed it had no get up and go to it anymore. Normally when I press the gas it had no problem accelerating. After they had a recall to check my car it acts as though it barely wants to move. Well I got in my car to go shopping yesterday and while my husband was driving the car shut off and we could not drive it. It had a loud clacking sound and it would not crank it totally shut down on us. I know they told me that there was a pin in my wheel that needed replacing I do not know if that broke off, but he said I could drive it until I am ready to replace it. I had no warning lights come on in the car. Please help!

Sounds like you need to

"Get up and go" back to the dealer!

Explain your plight and how it did not start until the recall repair.

Let us know the outcome.

The Medic

Will do and I will let you know the outcome.

Yep they did something wrong, please let us know.

Does the engine stopper connector of a kia sorento 24v passes through a relay and if yes how does the relay controls the motor. KIA P/N 0K4H118160 Engine Stop Motor 24v was working normally before the current to the motor got shorted to the ground and since then refusing to operate it,but all we could do is testing it manually with a direct main.And even with the direct main the stopper do opens but cannot close when the ignition is added to the connector.

You are not going to get any answers with such a question because I don't think anybody is going to understand it. What is the stopper you are refering to?

Can you explain in details what happpened and what is wrong?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

If the engine is cranking and not starting, check out the above link for an idea what to look for.

Each time I add fuel at gas station, then drive half a block or so the engine starts shaking, and shuts off. then will restart and usually runs okay.

what it sounds like is that there is something in the fuel tank, it may be some water or the screen for the fuel pump is clogging up sometimes the ethenal in the gas does more damage than good. there are a few items out that you can add to the gas tank, I found that what they call seafoam, gets rid of water and prevents the ethenal from logging the screen on the fuel pump. When you fill the car up you stir sediments that are in the tank up.

Thanks.

My 2006 Kia optima starts fine then after 3 seconds it turn off. Is this a oil pressure sensing unit gone out? It does not choke out or sputter. It dies like when u turn the car off. I thinking it is a fail safe switch. I don't know anyone with a scan tool to check historic codes. I haven't got a repair manual for it. we just got the car a week ago. pertty clean car fax.

Have the fuel pressure checked and also go to Autozone have the computer scanned for codes its free-

More likely to be a camsensor fault.

Car puts out bluish smoke when first started and smells like a strong fuel mixture. must be warmed up and cut off for ten seconds and restarted to get above 2000 rpms.

Went to autozone and codes are possible faulty ecm, HOME VALVE(IHV) or LHV or IAT sensor

What do you think?

A possible problem with the WCM will "always" come up as a possibility, but rarely is. From your description, I would take a good look at IHV. It may just have to be removed and cleaned with ordinary carb cleaner. Let us know what you find.

[quote:bd1ec605d9="James W."]A possible problem with the WCM will "always" come up as a possibility, but rarely is. From your description, I would take a good look at IHV. It may just have to be removed and cleaned with ordinary carb cleaner. Let us know what you find.[/quote:bd1ec605d9]

Thanks Could you tell me where the IHV would be located. Looked for 1/2 hour on internet and it wont tell me anything..

I must have had cramps in my fingers when I entered my last response. Let me try again. Can you give me the actual codes that were retireved from your last scan? I doubt, not that it isn't, that it's a problem with the ECM.

When driving engine tends to loose power cut out like it is starved for gas then it will pick up and take off.

It could be caused by a couple thing. Have you ever had the fuel pump pressure tested? Also, have you had the catylatic converter checked to make sure it isn't clogging. Has the check engine light come on?