Engine will not crank over?

Welcome to 2CarPros.

The clicking you hear sounds like the park interlock releasing when you press the brake. Will the vehicle start in any other gear? For example, will is start in neutral?

Based on what you are telling me, it sounds like the transmission range sensor has failed.

DESCRIPTION


Picture 1


The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (1) is mounted to the top of the valve body inside the transaxle and can only be serviced by removing the valve body. The electrical connector extends through the transaxle case.

The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) has four switch contacts that monitor shift lever position and send the information to the PCM/TCM.


Picture 2


The TRS (1)also has an integrated temperature sensor (thermistor) (2) that communicates transaxle temperature to the TCM and PCM.

Picture 3 is a diagnostic flow chart related to the starter not engaging.

_______________________________

I have to ask, did this issue start since the shift solenoids were replaced? Have you checked the linkage to the range sensor and confirm the adjustment is correct? If you just did work on the transmission, it could be something as simple as adjustment or the plug on the range sensor is not properly installed.

If you look at picture 4, it shows the location of the sensor. Confirm it is properly connected.

Let me know what you find. I also need to know how this came to be. I don't want to arbitrarily have you replace the sensor because you need to remove the valve body to access it.

Take care,
Joe

checked all fuses all intact not signs of problems there. tryed changing arround relays to see if problem was there no change happened. any ideas

there is a fusible link between the alternator and starter. it is a green wire going to red wire. you should see the link. probe with a test light if power on one side and not the other you need to fix that if okay it sounds like the battery is weak or the starter has gone out but to be sure lets check out these guides, they can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

I have a crank no start for my car. I've already changed the starter, change the ignition switch and battery is fully charged. don't understand why is that. I don't have any idea.

Hello thanks for using 2CarPros.

As a first step perform starter solenoid test check the table fig 1 if the engine cranks continue to starter relay test fig 2 and relay pin out check fig 3.
if engine does not crank check wiring between the relay and the starter solenoid.

Check our guide for wiring check:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out guide for starter check:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please let us know how it turns out.
Thank you.

It just stop running and will not start back up. It will crank over one time of if turn the key fast if I wait until the gauge comes on and try to start it then it will not even turn over. Like had no power, but lights are on. I am at a lost.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Here is the first thing I suggest trying. See the attached link. Often times, when battery terminals are loose or corroded, you will turn the key and everything will shut down. Try this first and let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Take care,
Joe

After sitting over night or for several hours. When I go to start the car. It doesn’t crank over to start right away.

I just want to clarify what you mean by it doesn't crank over to start right away. What happens when you turn the key? Does the engine spin over but just doesn't fire or does it not do anything when you turn the key? Is there even a click if it does nothing?

Lastly, what does it take in order to get this started? Do you have to crank it for a long time or just let it sit and try again a few minutes later?

Let me know what it does and we can go from there because these issues are very different. Thanks

When I go to start the car, it makes a clicking sound or something like that, but doesn’t start right away. Also after driving it for awhile and when I turn the car off and go to leave it starts right up. I only have a problem with it after it sits overnight. I was looking around on Google and found some info. Could it be the starter?

Yes. It could be the starter. But more likely is a failing battery. Let's stop by a parts store and have them load test the battery. Most do it for free so they can hopefully sell you a battery. However, if the battery fails we need to replace it.

The fact that it does not do this after driving just shows that the battery is most likely charged slightly but then after sitting it does not start right away. That is pretty common of a failing battery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Let me know what happens with this and we can go from there. Thanks

My car is not starting for two days it a weird noise trying to start and was a slow start, then yesterday it wouldn't start at all. When I turned the key it make a one time click noise. We tried jumping my car its not the battery. My dad said he tried to bridge the starter wires and it still wasn't giving a spark or anything. We don't know if its the starter the starter relay or the ignition switch.

I need you to check a few things. First, make sure all battery terminals and grounds are clean and tight, free of corrosion. If they are, try this. Have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for voltage to the smaller wire on the starter. You should get 12v when the key is in the start position. If you do, chances are the starter is bad.

Let me know what you find.

clean your ground terminal that your problem, if the strater didnt work is because your ground was dirty.

i just got this car, replaced serpetine belt (chunk was missing), ac belt (wasnt one on it), oil change. drove to store came out car wouldnt start just click click sounds. jumped it, nothing. cleaned off battery connectors jumped then started. ran for hour shut off and dead. replaced battery. ran good, next morning dead again. only time i heard the click click sound was on first time. after its jumped the radio time is reset but not my stations. brought it in too have it tested was told alternator was bad, went to replace it and was told its fine, didnt replace. gave me a print out that said alternator is charging, .74 millilamp draw w/key off. i have heard so many things it could be and would liketo just pin point what and why before i start spending money especially unnecessary money.

The most common way for these alternators to fail is to become intermittent due to worn brushes. It can easily test good, then stop working a minute later. You have to watch the charging gauge on the dash, then perform tests while the problem is acting up.

Battery voltage must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts when the engine is running. If you find low battery voltage, typically around 12.0 - 12.5 volts, you need to measure the voltage on the two small wires on the back of the alternator. Those voltages will determine the next course of action.

caradiodoc

My 1998 dodge advenger won't start i would vapor lock then it would start again and now it won't start it sounds like it ain't getting enough gas and we just changed the fuel pump and the striner that goes with it we even checked the relay switch i need help

Sense I bought this car in the summer, my car did not start unless I drove it everyday. Now that it's winter, it starts up the first time, regardless of how long it has been sitting. Recently up here in the north, we had a warm spell, and I am having the same problem. Car will only start if sitting if it is below 20 degrees. The fuel pump and the filter were recently replaced. Any thoughts?

What does it take to get it started?

It sounds like fuel pressure is bleeding off when the car sits. My Caravan does this at times too in the summer. Suspect a leaking injector or pressure regulator. The injectors have parts that are machined to millionths of an inch. Temperature changes cause parts to expand or contract which can compromise their ability to seal. Fuel pressure should remain in the system for weeks without running the engine. Since it starts if you only leave it sit one day, it suggests pressure is still there. Not starting after two days suggests pressure has had time to bleed down.

As a test the next time you expect it to not start, cycle the ignition switch to "run", (do not crank the engine because that will cause the injectors to bleed off what little pressure might be there). Turn the switch back off, wait a few seconds, then turn it to "run" again. Do this a third time, then try to start it. Every time you do this, the fuel pump will run for one to two seconds, then turn off. After doing that three times, the fuel pressure will be high enough for the engine to start. In my case, all I have to do is to turn the ignition switch to "run", then pause there for two seconds, THEN crank the engine. Works every time.

If this works for you, you'll need to determine the cause for loss of pressure. You will never solve a running problem on a Chrysler product by replacing the fuel filter.

caradiodoc

My mechanic already told me to do this in the summer. I would have the fuel pump run a couple of times and then I would try to start the car, but it would just flood after the first try.

I tried to start it today following your suggestion and it started up. Maybe the fuel pressure is bleeding off. Anyhow, thanks for the post.

Interesting observation about it flooding during the summer. That would suggest a leaking injector, not a leaking regulator.

Every time you turn on the ignition switch, a priming pulse of fuel enters the intake manifold. That extra fuel can be the cause of flooding. It probably doesn't happen in winter because very little of the raw fuel vaporizes and enters the engine. Most of the fuel just puddles in the intake manifold rather than drenching the spark plugs.

caradiodoc

Is there any way I could check to see if it is leaking? If not, do I have to replace the whole fuel injector or just the O-ring seal?

Sorry about all the questions and thankyou for your help.

Leaking o-rings will bleed off fuel pressure, but you'll smell it and it would be a severe fire hazard. More likely the pintle valve isn't sealing, dribling fuel into the engine. Your mechanic will remove the 4 or 6 injectors attached to the fuel rail, flip it over, then watch to see which ones are wet on their tips. Only the leaking injectors need to be changed, but the better shops will try to get you to replace the entire set because they are matched for flow rate. GM has a lot of performance problems due to not spending the few extra bucks to match injectors on the assembly line. Chrysler has very little trouble with injectors.

Injectors are kind of expensive, so you might want to consider doing nothing. This isn't a serious problem. In my case, I consider it to be a very minor inconvenience. It's been doing this for over ten years. It hasn't gotten any worse and I doubt it will get worse in the future.

You can test for a leaking regulator yourself. Fuel that goes through it goes right back into the tank. Use a special plastic hose pinch-off pliers to pinch the return hose when you know the car will be sitting for a few days. Remove the pliers just before you start the engine. If it solves the problem, suspect the valve in the regulator or the o-ring around the stem is leaking. This too is not a serious problem.

caradiodoc

Everytime I turn on the ignition it blows the 30 amp fuse.. I replaced the starter but no help. I disconnected the starter and turned on key and it still blew the fusen

There's no fuse in the starter circuit so disconnecting it isn't going to affect anything. That starter draws up to 150 amps.

Plug in a pair of spade terminals in place of the fuse, then connect a pair of jumper wires to them and to a 12 volt light bulb. When the circuit is turned on and the short is present, the bulb will be full brightness so be sure it's not resting against a plastic door panel or on the carpet. Now you can unplug things and move wire harnesses around to see what makes the short go away. When it does, the bulb will get dim or go out. In particular, check for the wires to the oxygen sensors to see if they fell down onto hot exhaust parts.