When I attempt to start my car it will not crank

This sounds like the starter is having problems or the battery needs to be load tested these guides can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

We have a 2006 Chevrolet impala LT 3.5liter. Turned car on lights flickered, so shut off car now car wont start and check engine light on. If I jump the car it turns over and works fine. I took battery to autozone said it was good and fully charged it. I put into car wont start, so jumped again ran fine. Took car to autozone and had it scanned the codes they gave were P1516, P1682, P0689, P2176. Please help

if you have a test light or voltmeter test the two things I've pointed out. you may have burnt the fusible link and or the maxi fuse as you are jumping the car beyond the maxi fuse. Your car will not charge if maxi fuse is out and may be the reason for the codes. once the fuse is found to be ok then clear codes and rdrive and then rescan if they come back. they should all have battery voltage on both side.s

car wont start,have tried charging battery,replacing starter,still wont start, when you attempt to start the vehicle it doesnt turn,you just hear a click,click sound

It sounds like the battery is weak. Recharge the battery and have it load tested. Most parts stores will do it for free. Next, you need to double check the battery terminals to make sure they are clean and tight. Check the ground to the engine block to make sure it is clean and tight too.

Let me know what you find. NOTE: The fact that the starter clicks tells me it is getting power. Based on that, it tells me it isn't getting enough power.

Today I installed a new radio in the car. I unhooked everything including the radio and I had to leave so I hooked the battery back up and proceeded. Once I got back home I unhooked the battery again and continued where I left off. Long story short, afterwards, the car will turn on, but it won't start. I've been trying to start it all day. it's been about 6 hours. I went to check on it and it didn't start again, but I noticed the reverse lights were on. Also when I turn the hazards on, the lights in the car get dimmer and brighter. Is this a battery problem or something more serious?

its possible that the battery got drained.... try charging it.... having it loadtested isnt a bad idea either.... we need to start with the most probable here, and that is the battery.... will the car start run if jumpstarted? also, do u have a security light flashing in the dash? these cars start acting wierd when the battery gets drained to about 10volts....

This issue is most certainly a security issue. What happens is sometimes when the battery is unhooked or components are removed repeatedly is the anti theft system thinks the vehicle is being stolen and it locks it out. The way to confirm this is the theft light will remain on solid or flash when you turn the key on. The light should turn off about 3 seconds after the key is turned.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

What I would suggest is simply put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and leave it there for 10-30 minutes and the theft light should turn off. Once this happens, you will be back up and running.

Let me know if you have more questions. Thanks

About once a week the ignition will not make connection. The lights, etc. work fine, but it won't start. It is like when you don't have your foot on the brake or the transmission in park. After about 10 minutes of trying it will all of a sudden kick in and do fine. The problem will not reoccur for about 10 days or so,

There are 3 common problems that cause this.
1. If you have a flashing security message when it happens, it is most likley a faulty passlock sensor in the ignition cylinder.
2. If you don't have 12 volts power to the purple wire on the starter solenoid during cranking and no security message, it is most likley a faulty ignition switch.
3. If you have 12 volts power to the purple wire during cranking and the starter is not cranking, you have a bad starter.

My car needs a boost almost everytime I cut it off once it is started it runs good. But When I try to restart it sometimes it will start, but when it doesn,t all interior lights radio, windows and battrey operated things work it will click as to turn over but want start. I had the baterry checked and its good, I had the alternator checked and its good what could be the problem

Sounds like a starter motor or wiring issue.

Rap on the starter a few times when it doesn't turn over and see if it jars it into starting.

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/car_will_not_crank.htm

Battery good.It does this on occasion and it will start with no problem as though nothing is wrong. Bo

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

See the guides below for testing some of the different things that can cause this

This sounds like the starter is having problems or the battery needs to be load tested these guides can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hey, the same thing happens to my 05' Chevy Impala Base 3.4L time to time...usually when the engine is hot. I took it to get an oil change yesterday and the car would not start. The battery was replaced two days ago so that could be ruled out. Plugs were done a few weeks ago. They checked to see if the fuel pump was kicking on and it was. The engine was cranking and seemed as though it was about to fire up and it would just die. The mechanic held down the throttle when I turned the key and it would run until he let off the throttle and it would just shut down. It really had him confused as to what it was. I've read alot of people have been having this problem. Could it be a gasket that is leaking air or something or maybe something to do with the compression? I sat there for about an hour of trying and then tried it again and it fired right up. Talk about craziness...I think once the engine cools it's fine. Also once it is started it never dies, even when it is idling. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Tried to start the car, battery light came on and there was a grinding (?) noise. Sounded like it was coming from the dash. Haven't tried to start it since.

Hello,

This could be your starter dragging because it is failing. In the diagrams down below I have included the wiring diagram for your vehicle's starting circuit and the instructions for the removal and installation of the starter for your vehicle. Please go through the guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Engine won't start. No clicking noise that I would expect to hear if dead battery. Also, lights do not appear dim. Engine sounds like it is trying to turn over, but straining and even comes to a complete stop. Loud static-like sound from speakers, even though the radio is turned off! I will replace battery tomorrow (it's about that time anyway), but I am worried that it may be an electrical problem, the starter, or that the engine has seized up (needs oil change, but level appears to be at least half full).
Thanks for your help.

Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off. The generic spec for a fully charged battery is 12.6 volts. Leave the leads on the battery posts, have helper turn key to crank. How far does the reading drop, shouldn't drop below 9 or 10 volts.

If you suspect a starter issue, some of the national brand autostores will test the starter for you. Take it off and take it to them for testing.

If you suspect hydrostatic lock, pull all the spark plugs, then try to crank.

It is possible your security system is causing an issue? You need to rule that out.

This vehicle has been well maintained and is driven 500 miles per week with no prior indications of problems. She just suddenly laid down. Battery is good, (reading 14 amps); ground is solid, all fuses,in all four boxes have been removed and visually verified as good. I have replaced the ignition switch. The problem is as follows: When key is inserted and turned, most dash lights do not come on. The gauges make several attempts to power up but fail. rhythmic clicking from multiple relays, but nothing from starter. Despite good battery, the headlights will not activate and the horn sounds like a strangled goose. What am I missing or what's the next step?

Hello,

Sounds like low voltage or a bad connection at the positive battery cable. Can you load test the battery using this guide? That would help even though it has 14 volts it can have no load capabilities.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down this guide and report back.

Amazing. Occam's razor strikes again. This simple thing solved the problem I've spent 2 weeks trying to track down. The corrosion was not obvious to the naked eye, particularly in my poorly lighted household garage. Thank you the brilliant diagnosis!

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

no power to pcm fuse & pcm crank fuse. fuses test good. Starter will not engage . No interior lights. windows work.battery and alternator test good also

Hello michael franks Check the ignition main fuse#5 (40A)underhood, if fuse is ok, check power to the fuse. Check ignition fuse #5(30A)

Check power to crank fuse,if there is no power, check for an open between Bat+ and fuse block.(see diagram)

Check your email for the diagrams.

Electrical all works but not turning over.

Hello,

It sounds like you have a weak battery or the starter has gone out. here are two guides to help us see what's going on. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on?, that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

It was a security lock on it.

O yes the security system here is how to reset it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

solenoid will not disengage after starting engine. I have changed starter, crank relay, alternator, ignition switch. Did not fix.

When the solenoid sticks in does pulling the crank relay out stop it? If it does check the yellow wire with black stripe and see if it is grounded. If it is you could have a short to ground in that wire or the PCM is bad. Another item is that the PCM is not getting a signal from the engine that it has started and to stop cranking. For that you would need to connect a scan tool and see if it is responding to the cam and crank sensors properly and that the ignition control is seeing the reference pulse telling it the crank is turning.

If I put my car in accessory or on mode, the lights, radio, AC, all turn on, but when I try and start the car, the engine will not make any noises. I just hear a few clicks and it shuts off. I am not really sure what to do.

It sounds like the battery is dead can you confirm the issue by following this guide?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

And if it fails this guide will show you how to replace it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers, Ken