Engine starter not working?

Hello,

This could be a problem with your neutral safety switch. I have included in the diagrams down below. Troubleshooting, adjustment, location, and wiring diagrams for this system on your vehicle.

This guide can help us fix it or see whats wrong.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test


Please go through this information and let us know what you find out. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please run this test and get back to us.

2003 GMC Envoy XL 5.3 litre 4WD... reduced engine power light keeps coming on. Had the gas pedal replaced and had the throttle body plate cleaned and it did not change. Now the car will not start at all. When the key is turned it makes a continuous clicking noise. No turn over at all.

that could be a low battery.

did you replace the throttle body?? it contains the motors for the fly-by -wire system

Roy

The throttle body was not replaced just cleaned...should I get the battery tested or try to jump it?

try to jump iy.

you may have to replace the throttle body as well.

Roy

I just had the water pump and serpentine belt replaced on it less than two weeks ago.
now I just went to start it just a minute ago and it wont turn over it sounds like a slight grinding noise when it wants to turn over but it was driving fine last night when I drove . but now all of a sudden it wont turn over . I didn't have any check engine lights on it either last night.

check battery for condition including load test and disconnect belt to see if it will start if it does then it's binding form pump ,p/s or alternator.

Won't crank.

Welcome to 2CarPros. Lets see if we can get you back on the road. First what does the truck do when you put the key into the ignition? Now if you turn it just to the run position, not start, what do the dash lights do, particularly the security light? When you turn it to start what happens? Nothing? Tries to turn over? Runs for a couple seconds and shuts down?
Do all the lights work or does it seem like a dead battery?
I'm asking because to a mechanic "Won't Crank" means it doesn't even turn over with the key. So we need to get on the same page first.

When I try to start my car nothing happens. No clicking noise or noise of any kind. The dashboard lights up and the radio works but it won't start.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

Last night I started my 03 GMC Envoy to move it from the street into my driveway. It started strong, ran fine and my wife hasn't had any problems with it. After shutting it off and letting it sit for 30 minutes, I tried to start it again and it wouldn't start. No lights would come on and it acted as if it didn't even have a battery in it.
I then tried to jump start it with my other car and I was able to turn the lights on but I still couldn't get it started. I left the jumper cable connected for 10 minutes and then tried to start it again but it still wouldn't start. As soon as I took the cables off, the truck was completely dead again.
I then took the battery out of another car and it started but was running poorly. It seemed like it wanted to stall out. It did stall when I turned on all of the lights and then again when I turned on the A/C. I also took the "bad" battery and put it in my other car and then that car wouldn't start so the battery is indeed dead.
Would a battery die that quick? It appeared to be working fine one minute and then it appeared to be dead as a doornail one minute later.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If BATT OEM then likely a cell opened very common in newer BATT construction. Install new BATT and see if stalling persists. Then we will go from there

The first battery is completely dead and the second battery(borrowed from my other car) is in the car when it feels like its about to stall and does stall when I put a strain on the battery(lights on and a/c on). The second battery is pretty new and was working fine in my other car.

Do you have avolt meter? if yes check charging voltage at BATT and ALT B+. check engine light on?

I checked the voltage by the battery and the fuse center. I can't get to the alternator as it's not directly on the top. I was getting between 13.5 and almost 15 at both spots. The CEL isn't on and when I went to check with my scanner for codes, that made the car stall out.

Suggest go to a parts house have them do charging system and battry test. Are you getting a new battery?

Thanks for ythe quick responses.
I'm assuming I will need a new battery since my other battery is dead. I'm just trying to figure out if there is a bigger problem before I put a new battery in and end up destroying it.
I don't understand why the battery was strong enough to start the car one minute and then a few minutes later be so dead that it won't even turn on the lights.

I took my car to Pepboys to have the charging system tested. They said the alternator was fine and the battery was dead. Luckily the battery was under warranty so I got it replaced. I still don't understand how the battery went working fine to being dead as a doornail within minutes.
They also did some further testing to see why it is stalling when the a/c is turned on and they think it's a problem with the trottle body. All of these problems started when the car failed to start. Before that I haven't had any sort of problems at all. Do you have any idea what may have suddenly caused the battery to die and then also cause the problem with stalling.

Before doing anything drive for awhile let computer relearn problem may go away.

How long do you think it would take to relearn? I've drive it about 6 miles already.

5 to 10 drive cycles engine on drive and off repeat

The shop called me and gave me a list of repairs they suggested to help the idle at a cost of $950.00. Choosing to save my money, I was looking around to see if I could find specific steps to do a relearn and found some recommendations that I would probably benefit from cleaning my throttle body. Picked up a can of throttle body cleaner for $4.00 and spent 40 minutes removing and cleaning it. Now it's running like a champ. I didn't even have to do a relearn.
Thanks for your help.

Great good work

Car who driving fine, started the car after it sitting for 45 mins to put down the window. While the car was running, heard a pop and the car died.
I have all interior and das lights, headlights but no power to the engine. It was turning over yesterday out instantly blows a fuse. Now it won't turn over but blows a fuse instantly without starting.

Without knowing what that fuse feeds it's impossible to know where to start looking or what to suspect first.

A simple trick to finding a short is to replace the blown fuse with a pair of spade terminals, then use small jumper wires to connect them to a 12 volt light bulb. A brake light bulb works well. When the circuit is live and the short is present, the bulb will be full brightness and hot so be sure it's not laying on the carpet or against a plastic door panel. Now you can unplug electrical connectors and move things around to see what makes the short go away. When it does, the bulb will get dim or go out.

I have a 2002 gmc envoy. There would be times when I'd be driving, then come up to a stop sign or light, and it would stall. Then it would take a few minutes for it to start again. Then, as that problem persisted, it started not starting at all. I changed the battery, starter, starter relay and checked all fuses. Still not starting, just clicks. i will mention that when I changed the starter it did work for a day, and then back to not starting. I'm completely out of guesses and I'm hoping someone can give me some sound advice. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

Clicking usually indicates a weak battery or poor connection. Are you certain that the battery is fully charged? Have you confirmed a good ground for the starter as well as a good power supply? Finally, and don't laugh, are you certain the battery terminals are clean and tight, free of corrosion?

Yes sir! Battery is brand new and free of corrosion and I've checked all the grounds I can see. Do you know of any hidden, or anyone else having a similar issue? Another question is, why would the starter work for a day and then go back to not starting? Almost like the solenoid got burned out. I replaced it twice. Does that seem like it could be an electrical issue?

Do me a favor. Have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for voltage to the smaller wire on the starter. It should have 12v. Let me know what you find.

When I turn the key to start it I get all the power but there Is no
response. Just silence. Any thoughts?

Hello,

Yep it sounds like you have a bad connection at the battery, here is a guide that will show you how to get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken