Engine will not crank over? Starter is not working?

Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's gear range sensor but to9 be sure lets go over these guides.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I appreciate the response. The RPM Gauge moves all the way and back. When the CKP is damaged, does the RPM move at all? And I could find the link you mentioned I should follow to test and replace the sensor?

It sounds like the starter has gone out. To be sure we need to check the power to the starter solenoid.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

if the starter is bad this guide will help you step by step on how to change it out with diagrams below to show you on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Hello Ken,

Thanks for the reply. Your experts have helped tremendously. I received 2 diagrams from Joe showing the wiring of the alternator to the starter. I cannot read either one (too small and blurry). They maybe what I need now or not. What I need is a sketch or guiding instruction as to how to trace the alternator wiring from the B post on the solenoid of the starter. Where does this wire go? How do I replace it? I tried to test for continuity between it and the terminal on the alternator (the one with the nut and washer and a wire) (not the one with the connector). I did not get any continuity.....

Here is a guide to help you test the connection and the alternator and starter wiring diagrams:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

To all of you (Ken, Alex, Joe and the rest of your experts).

I want to express my appreciation for your help. I was able to replace the fuse/relay junction block, learn all about the engine and body harnesses, replace the battery cable, remove clean and reinstall the starter, test and replace the alternator-generator and wiring and correct the connection of the starter ignition trigger switch. I also learned a great deal about the role of the BCM and ECM in the charging and starting-ignition phases. So, with your help i finally restored power to the system and the car is back to service. My sister is driving it to/from her office and is very happy with the results. You expressed interest to know what the problem(s) was/were. So, here are the results: 1. Relays- starter, run/crank relays weren't making reliable contacts inside the junction block. Starter j-fuse 26 was blowing repeatedly. J-fuse 21's blade was not getting power except intermittently. The block as a whole was compromised by previous testing. 2. The scanner initially was registering an f-generator code 0622 due to wiring disconnect: there was no continuity in the wire and no voltage. 3. The alternator was giving 11.38 volts only (but inconsistently since the battery wasn't losing charge). 4. The starter tested consistently good, but its trigger switch was registering 12.4 volts off and on. Finally, the car was starting every time after i reached the conclusion that this trigger switch-connector was being separated and the starter not getting the ignition switch starting command (the first hint came after i started the car and went for a test drive. When i turned off and on the ignition in the driveway, the car didn't restart. The starter switch-connector wiring came loose inside its housing due to vibration- broken clip... I did not think it would do that. Once i fixated the connector inside its switch , the car started every time (but not until today when i finished doing all i described above and went for a final test drive, the car did not want to restart after i shut the engine off . It was clear at that point that something was coming off during driving! I made sure it was not going to come off again and gave my sister the car this afternoon, and i am ready to go on restoring my 3.8 Grand Prix (everything- complete overhaul and lots of body work and paint) and a family Ford 1.3 b (this one has primitive relay box- which was melted like molten lava! I replaced it and its primitive harness altogether using the cut and splice method Joe talked about) has oil leaks, blown head or intake/exhaust manifold and requires major engine restoration work.

Thank you so much for getting back to us with such a detailed explanation. We are glad you got it fixed. Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

Ken and Joe, absolutely, I will be sure to recommend your experts to friends. I do have one last concern out of curiosity. When the trigger switch on the solenoid was being disconnected from its purple wire connector, what was causing the IPC (instrument panel) to flicker later after other lights were displayed one by one (the tire pressure followed by the traction control symbol followed by the ABS and then the Theft Deterrent Symbol) almost always in that order? When the car is shut off, the trigger switch reconnected, and the car restarted, everything is back to normal. I just need to understand this part (the IPC part/how it relates to the trigger switch being disconnected while the car is in motion and the switch isn't being triggered-its circuit is open- right?) And could this disconnect have caused damage to the alternator or other parts or components? I know the circuitry involves the switch, solenoid, the ECM, the BCM, the battery, the F and L connectors of the generator on the alternator and the instrument panel, fuses/relays, but while the vehicle already in motion? Thanks again.

When an IC starts to go bad when you remove power it resets it kind of like a PC reboot but shorter. Then it heats up and fails again.

Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.
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I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced the starter. It still only makes a single "click" noise when I go to turn the key over. What could be the issue? Maybe the camshaft sensor needs replaced as well as the crankshaft position sensor?? Please help.

Hello,

This could be a problem with the starter relay. In the diagrams down below I have included a comprehensive factory troubleshooting flowchart for your vehicle's condition. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The crankshaft or camshaft sensors will not affect the starter. Either you have a bad connection at the battery, the starter relay is bad, the new starter is also bad, or you have a weak battery. To help diagnose the possible problem, I need you to follow these links in the order I attached them. Do this and let me know the results.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Next, I need you to check the starter relay. It is located in the under hood fuse box. It is relay 31. I attached pictures to help you locate it. At this point, you have two choices. First, switch the relay with a different one from the relay box that has the same part number and see if it makes a difference. Or, you can actually test the relay itself. Also, check to make sure fuse 26 which is right next to the relay is good. See picture 5. It supplies power to the relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

If that is good, then you need to test the starter for proper power. Here is a link that shows how that is done. You will need a helper to do this.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Here are a few links that may help you with testing:


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse


This seems like a lot, but most of it will only take a few minutes. I have to be honest, my first suspect is a weak battery or dirty connection at the battery, so pay attention to the first two links I attached.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Wife's battery went dead at work, they jumped it off with a golf cart ! It blew the headlight lamp bulbs right off! The dash gauges ,work radio works,it won't start with the ignition. I can short the starter and it will turn over. Whàt could be wrong with it?

is this a g6 or g8? G6 doesn't have a 5.3 init. pic i'm sending is for a 3.9L check the items in pic there is also a fusible link off of starter but that is for alternator

Sometime when I go to crank my car it turns over but then goes dead again like it is not getting gas. But when I turn it over and give it a little gas it catches up and idles. But sometimes I can just turn the key and it starts right up. Other times I have to give it some gas so it will not go dead after I turn the key over.

I would start with having the battery tested. If it is weak, you may not be getting full fuel pressure and full strength sparks. Giving it a little gas will help compensate for a deficiency there, allowing the car to start. The local auto parts stores all offer free battery testing and it only takes a few minutes to get it done.

Hello, this morning when I tried starting my car it wouldn't turn over.Also, it keeps giving me this little symbol with a car and a lock going through it. can someone please help me? I need my car to start.

Hello, I'm Danny.

The first thing I would like you to try is an anti theft/security system reset. Here is the tutorial to view:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

After reading , scroll the page to find the Pontiac instructions. Let me know if this helps and we'll go from there.Thanks for using 2CarPros.

The last couple weeks its taking three to four times turning the key to get it to start and now it is a slow wind up start. any ideas of what it could be?

Welcome to 2CarPros.

If the starter is turning slower than normal, it could just be a weak battery or corroded battery terminal. Here is a general way to load test the battery, and one to check the battery terminals. What I would truly suggest is to take it to a parts store and have them load test the battery and test the alternator at the same time. Most do this service for free with hopes to see parts. Regardless, here are the links I mentioned:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test


Let me know if you have questions or need help.

Joe

Iv'e noticed that my car has problems starting mostly during the winter time. Usually I have to let it sit for a little while and it will start again. Recently Ive noticed that its getting worse and now takes an hour or so to resetstart. I checked the battery, and alternator, and they are good. Also my dash lights and knobs go up and down and on and off like the car is posessed from time to time. The dealer says they will have to keep my car for 2-3 days to go over everything because it sounds like an electrical problem. Some say its the starter, and others say it has something to do with my remote start not working. Please help!

It could have something to do with an aftermarket remote start. Has the check engine light ever come on? Have you had the fuel pump pressure tested?...................