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Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

This means the engine is having an issue in ford escape is a common problem indicating a bad Electronic Throttle Body.

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

We should run the codes

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

I recently got my truck scanned to see why I had a check engine light on. After it was scanned I got a code of P1450 I'm not sure what this means could you please help me out!

Capless fuel tank filler pipe damaged, preventing vacuum relief (if equipped)
? Contaminated fuel vapor elbow on the EVAP canister
Possible ? Restricted EVAP canister
Causes: ? Canister vent (CV) solenoid stuck partially or fully open
? Plugged CV solenoid filter
? EVAP canister purge valve stuck open
? VREF circuit open in the harness near the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor, the FTP sensor or the powertrain control module (PCM)
? Damaged FTP sensor

also fule cap stuck closed blocking vacuum relief.

Earlier this afternoon I was stopped at a red light and it seemed like it wanted to stall but it didn't. After I got where I was going, I went into the store for about an hour started the SUV again and it didn't act up again but still had the engine light on. Would all of those cause my SUV to act up like that?

no the engine ligh is on because you need a scanner to shut it off after being fixed. do yourself a favor and have apro fix athis for you it will be much cheaper in the long run.

my girlfriends 2005 Ford Escapes started shaking and the check engine light came on yesterday, I scanned it and it had 2 codes P0305 and P0316, which when I searched them told me that the 5th cylinder was misfiring. I drove it back to the house and later that day cleared the codes and started it , it started and drove just fine and the code never came back on. I figured it was a fluke with the computer but it happened again this morning but this time we got six codes P0304,P0316,P0300PD,P0304PD,P0305PD,P0316PD. where do I start?

Random misfires normally caused by vacuum leaks and contaminated fuel.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

1.Defective spark plugs
2.Inadequate spark/coil,defective spark plug wire.
3.Lack of compression
4.False air leakage.
5.Faulty fuel injectors.
6.Insufficient fuel pressure.
7.Contaminated fuel.
8.EGR valve that is leaking.
9.Oxygen sensors.
10.Throttle position sensor.
11.Manifold absolute pressure sensor
12.Mass Airflow Sensor
13.Idle air control valve

Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it-

2005 Ford Escape check engine light on Codes P0430 U0121 U0155 - What do these mean?

The PO430 is low efficiency on the bank2 Catalytic Converter. The other codes are communication codes for the bus network that joins all the computers. That's not something you could deal with yourself. That takes some pretty expensive equipment to deal with those.

What is the estimated cost of repairs? Can I drive until repaired?

I can't answer either of those questions. Too many unknown factors right now. You'll probably spend a couple hundred in diagnostics to get to the bottom of it.

the engine light is on and they said it was the 02 sensor and so we replaced it , but the check engine light cam back on! what should we do? how many sensors are on my truck and where are they located? we only repleced one do you think we replaced the wrong one? also i hear a noise when i hit bumps under the hood on the driver side- its like something is betting or knocking on the hood of the truck , but its under the hood? please help!

Check strut plates and sway bar links. Also, have the computer rescanned to determine if the code is the same. If it is, let me know the code so I can check into it.

Joe

I am very interested in buying a OBD II scanner, i have been getting mixed messages about different type's of scanner's, one person tells me that i need a OBD II CAN something, and the other says a ordinary OBD II is fine, something to do with when the car was made, any information would be a great help thank you. Cruz

what you need it to do
just to read PCM codes
all will do that
this is a link to show you the difference between all
and how much are they

05 Escape 3.0 6 cyl with CEL blinking. Codes as above and Ford dealership wants $400+ to repair. My question is: they said it was my #1 plug and ignition coil but the error code 353 is "Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction". What does this entail? Can I replace the plug and coil for #1 or is it more involved? Would like to save the $$$. Thanks.

The second code is most likely created by abnormal resistance in the coil circuit, which could be froma bad coil. The cyl1 misfire is most likely the bad coil.You can DIY this easily. You should however install factory parts, cheaper electronics are exactly that....cheaper

Had same problem on 2000 ford ranger. Replaced, spark plug and wires which were bad. Still got same error. Replaced coil pack. Still had error. Turned out to be caused by bad Power Control Module relay in power box. Replaced relay and no more error codes or trouble staring in humid weather.

2005 Ford Escape 4 cyl 84,000 miles

I have a 2005 ford escape. I purchased the escape brand new and still owe money on the car. I drove to visit my family which was about four hours away. I drove for a period without stopping, but when I went to stop, the car jerked/stuttered and then cut off. The check engine light never came on prior to this incident and still has never come on when the issue occurs. I was working on the repairs and have replaced some small things and had some sort of cleaning done on it, but now I cant drive a mile and the car stalls out when I go to stop. When the car stalls out, I have to start it back up and rev on the gas until i can go. Once I can go I have to very quickly put it into drive. I am concerned for safety reasons especially. I am not sure what the issue is and no mechanics can agree on the issue. I have found hundreds of similar complaints upon doing research and I guess what I really want to know is what the problem is?!?

Have you checked fuel pump pressure?

I had that problem in a 88 Corvette. The problem was a bad fuel injector.

2005 Ford Escape 4 cyl Four Wheel Drive 21000 miles

WHILE DRIVING O/D LIGHT IS FLASHING AND CHK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON WHAT DO YOU THINK THE PROBLEM IS

Need to have it scanned for codes.The OD light may be causing the check engine light or vice-versa. The codes should help lead to the fix for both though

I drove my car with the gas light on until it stopped moving, I continued to turn it on and drive it until it would stop moving again.. I did this until it would no longer move when I turned it on and put it in drive. I put $15 worth of gas in and got a quarter tank. I began driving it and it started to chug. The check engine light then came on and it is flashing. I checked my oil level and it is normal, the car was completely serviced less than a month ago. I am about to go to AutoZone and have them look at it, they suggested some sort of cleaner. They said the problem may be that a hose or pipe (not sure) was clogged causing me to lose fuel pressure. (This assessment was based off of a phone call) I have also been hearing that there is air in some hose or pipe. Please help! What do I need to do?

Amazing. The fuel pump is cooled by the fuel in the tank. Ford has had enough of a problem that they designed their fuel gauges to read "empty" when there's still quite a bit of fuel in the tank. That's to get you to buy more fuel before it gets low enough to allow the pump to overheat. To keep expecting the vehicle to run with no fuel is not understandable, but most likely the pump motor has been damaged. There is no air in the lines. That bleeds out automatically while you're driving.

well yeah definitely not understandable to expect the car to continue to run without fuel but i was desperate... ya know, broke college student attending a college that costs $60,000 to attend for a single year. i went to autozone and they ran the check engine light codes and it came up that the 5th cylinder was misfiring. they sent me off with a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and told me to drive it for 100 miles and if the check engine light did not go off then i should return to them because it would most likely be a spark plug or one other thing. now what you said.... pump motor... how much do you see that potentially costing me?

Sorry that I'm out of time due to a dying 'puter battery. I'll be back as soon as possible.

If the engine is running now, we can forget the fuel pump unless other problems develop later. For a single cylinder misfire, park plugs and wires are good suspects, and Fords have a lot of trouble with ignition coils on those engines that use individual ones for each cylinder. An easy way to identify a bad coil is to swap two of them, then see if the misfire code switches to a different cylinder.

Ford doesn't have much trouble with injectors, and those cleaners rarely solve an existing problem. They're better for general maintenance. If you DO suspect an injector problem, you can do the same thing as with the ignition coils. Switch them between two cylinders, erase the misfire code, then drive it and see if a code sets for the same cylinder or the other one.

our check engine light just came on. we just bought it at 73,000 lies and are paying way to much. now we had the problum with the airbag light and they fixed it at the dealer it took two days and a new wire and ya. now we have the check engine light on.we would really be very greatful all the feedback we get thank you....

If the Check engine light is on, go to an auto parts store and ask them to help you read the error code. It should help you get a better idea of what is wrong and if it is something that you can fix yourself.

I agree with wesalauzen get the codes and repost with the fault codes so we can assist further

I washed my engine with a pressure washer. The engine light came on and it backfired and ran rough until it dried out a few days later. Sometimes when it rains and the car is sitting outside, it does the same thing. If I am driving and it starts to rain, it runs fine.

If you haven't learned this lesson already, let me advise you. You should NEVER, EVER was an engine with water. There are way too may sensitive modules that can be damaged these days. Your vehicle has a coil on plug system and you likely got water down under the coils. You may have to remove the coils and get it good and dried out and hope nothing is permanently damaged. A blow dryer will be helpful.

Thanks for the reply. How about using WD40? I used it on Distributors in the past. It displaces water.

Yes, WD40 would be OK for residual moisture but if the spark plug tubes are full of water, that will have to be blown out after the coil is removed.

Why does the engine light come on after working on the alternator? The alternator quit working and it was repaired by changing the regulator, after that the engine light came on and eventually the alternator quit again within few hours.

it may be coincidence scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge to see what is wrong.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Runs fine unless it has been raining. I know that might sound weird but after a hard rain, the vehicle will shake and the check engine light will start flashing. Do you know what might be causing this?

we have no engine size so i will generalize.

plugs/coils get wet and cause this condition.

if you have a v-6 you will need to replace all 6 plugs, coils and ford reccomends replacing pcm as well. there is a tsb for this issue

Roy

2006 Ford Escape. Engine stays on
because of problem with gas cap seal? Should I take to a dearler?