Engine will not stay running?

This sounds like the PCM is bad, but we should check the fuses first.

here is a guide to help and the fuse locations as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If the fuses are okay (test with ignition on) I have left the location and instructions on how to change out the PCM, you can get a preprogrammed unit by searching Google or Ebay. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

The fuses are all good, I'm leaning more towards the BCM or IPC, since there are no issues with the power train, I don't know why I would need to change the PCM. The instrument panels have no power nor do the dome lights. And no power to the fuel and trunk doors, or windows or locks. This would definitely have to be the Body Control Module, or Instrument Panel Cluster, right?

So, I tested all rear fuses with a new low voltage computer safe tester, I'm not getting any power to any of the rear fuses. I have continuity in them all, but the voltage tester shows no power. Key was on when testing. Is this BCM? Or maybe a bad ground?

The rear fuse panel gets its power from the front fuse block (body1 and body2 fuses) they are under the hood. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Changed both 60-amp fuses even though they tested fine. Update however, I pulled the interior shroud under the driver dash and see a ton of water drops due to moisture all over the wiring and plugs located way up behind the instrument panel... I used some shop rags to dab the water drops and hung 2 "Damp rid" bags. 1 under the dash where I removed the shroud, and 1 from the rear view mirror. I will let the sit until Friday. Which is 2 days from today. Then I will put some heat in there for a bit, clean the plugs, and see if It helps. There was no moisture in the trunk. I will post an update Friday night.

Good job, it sounds like you may have a leaking windshield. Let me know what happens.