My engine stalls after driving for a while

When engine stalled, are you able to restart? This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds? These guides will help fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

thanks for responding. it does start up if i wait 10 mins. if i wait til its totally cold, it runs fine til it warms up again. sometimes it will go for a half hour if i don't run it hard. if i warm it up before driving it doesn't last long before it stalls. The idle is normal and the engine runs with slight throttle. i should add that there was one time that it was low on oil and it stalled out, i put oil in but the problem has got worse since then.

What is the idling speed after warming up?
Did you check what is missing causing the non starting after stalling?

When I start my car and rev the engine, the car runs fine, but as soon as I put the car into drive and hit the gas, it sputters and lurches and eventually stalls. When I get the car over 40mph (if i can get it there) it seems to run fine, but If I have to stop or slow down to turn it stalls. I have a small leak in my gas tank, and if I put a gas cap on, the sealant breaks open and I have to patch it again. I know I need a new tank, but some people I know are saying that It might just be that I need to put a gas cap on and it will be fine, others think it may be the fuel filter.

I am having the exact same problem with my 1995 Corolla, with the exception that sometimes it wont start at all, but the stalling and dieing is the same.

I don't think your gas tank leak or gas cap is related. But you need to address these issues.

On my car I have been going through and testing all the sensors. I ordered a vacuum pump and fuel pressure tester to check it further. I think it may be the coil failing after it warms up or possibly the distributor.

I have experience and most tools (worked as a professional mechanic in the 70's and 80's) but these "newer" cars are tough without the fancy scanners and such.

I think you will probably end up taking your car in so it can be checked out with the proper scanners and test equipment. As there are so many things that could be wrong and one system affects another.

I have another car so I am going to keep beating on it reading, learning and testing what I can until I figure it out!!

If I do I will post it here!

Has teh engine been tuned up recently? small engines need to be running on all 4 when using the a/c. Also clean out around the butterfly in the throttle bore with carb cleaner and a rag. This should help stabilize the idle.

Often after the car has been outside in the rain for extended periods, it starts idling very rough and periodically stalls out. Usually, if I can keep my foot on the gas to keep the rpms up, it won’t stall, but occasionally it does anyway. After the rain stops, it takes perhaps 30-60 minutes before the car runs fine again (i.e. some component drying off). I took it to my mechanic and (of course!) he could not replicate the problem. The distributor cap, rotors, and ignition wires were all replaced within the last 18 months; my mechanic tried spraying water on these but the car still ran fine, so I don’t think those are the issue. My gas cap appears to have a very tight seal, so I don’t think water is leaking into the gas tank.

What else could it be? Could the ignition coil be vulnerable even though the other ignition components are fine? Could it be something in the fuel system? I figure it’s probably not the fuel pump because if it were, the issue would be constant rather than only in the rain. Is there anything in the air intake system that is susceptible to water/leakage? I believe the car has a mostly original exhaust system, could any water leaks in the manifold/pipes/cat lead to these drivability issues? My mechanic said the PCV valve seemed a little worn and sticky, could that possibly be the culprit for rough-running in the rain? The thing drives totally perfect in dry weather.

I greatly appreciate your help in pointing me in the right direction for components to inspect/replace so I don’t keep spending more and more money on diagnostic fees that turn up nothing. Thanks!

(p.s. I just sent a donation via paypal from my email address (redacted). Cheers!)

I would start by checking all major connectors for water/corrosion. Sounds more like a plug is getting wet and then drying out. Try looking at the distributor connectors and the coil wire

My car stalls only when I start to push on the gas pedal. I changed my fuel flirter what else could it be? when i changed it it didnt help at all

Hi surferchick21590,

If you have hesitation when accelerating while cruising, then it most probably is cause by bad spark plugs, wires, distributor rotor or cap.

If it stalls only when taking off at idle, it could be a faulty or out of adjustment throttle position sensor.

Did the Check Engine Lamp shows?

i know what you mean about accelerating and the car want to stall i have the same 1995 corolla mine did the same thing once an it was my fuel injector they were dirty so i bought a fuel injector cleaner name sledge hammer an poor it in de gas tank run the car for a while an it started to clear up so you can try that you can use any other injector cleaner

i have a 95 corolla wagon,1.8 liter,it will start up and idle ,but stalls as soon as i touch the gas .i replaced the fuel pump and filter,changed all the sensores on the engin, and the computer.any help would be great, thanks tom .

Although you replaced the FP, check fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. The symptoms are classic ones of low fuel pressure.
If pressure is OK, then look at ignition system, ignitor, coil.
Check fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for the presence of gas, if there the FP regulator will have to be replaced.

I had just started my car for the first time of the day and i had driven about 500 feet down the road when the car died. The car flickerd once (the radio reset on its own and dash lights came on but the car was stilling running) a few seconds later I saw my RPM's drop and my radio shut off and i had no power steering and the car was dead. I tried starting the car and nothing would happen no lights, beeps, nothing ( i had no power). I waited approx. 10 minutes and the car starts like nothing ever happen. I tried to remember if i could recall something leading up to thins on the only thing i can recall is a few days ago the a/c was fluctuating from bowing hard air to blowing soft air on its own like it was surging kinda. If i could please get some help on this matter it would be great this is my only car and I need to get my son back and forth to day care. Thanks.

charging system tested, battery and alternator. This is a free service. Make sure battery connections are clean and tight. lets run the codes

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

If OK then have fuel pressure tested and ignitor (ignition module) tested.

during morning the engine works fine, but about 30 minuets of driving the engine automatically shuts off. When i restart it the engine won't work, but after about 10 minutes of standby the engine starts again but shuts off again after a few minutes.

What do you think is the problem, i already check the carb and the mechanic says it working just fine, they told me that the distributor was the problem, is this true?

Hope to hear from you soon, thanks.

Seems to me you need to check the fuel pressure to rule out a failing fuel pump-Try this for a start

after driving for a while engine just shuts off sometimes if I hit a bump in the road it cuts off. When I try to restart it wont, it will crank but wont catch. Ill go back a half hour later it starts right up with authority. once while stalling on a highway I heard a click sound at the mid dashboard area.

Hi there,

Start with checking all the electrical plugs are clean and tight, with the engine running wiggle each plug you may be lucky and get the engine to stall if you find a faulty plug, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

Hello,
I have a 1993 Toyota Corolla with 210,000 miles. The motor still runs like a champ, it uses very little oil and I get about 30-35 mpg (1.8 liter engine). here is my problem: About a year ago I was on the freeway and the engine suddenly sputtered out. I coasted off to the side and got out to check the engine. Everything looked fine, so I scratched my head and decided to start it. It started right up and ran fine until now.
In the last month the same thing has happened twice. Both times a freeway speeds. I'll stop, re-start the engine and everything is fine. I changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, wires etc. but am still worried as this little problem is so erratic. Has anyone dealt with a similar problem or have any insightful suggestion? Thanks.

Most likely you have an ignition problem (ignitor).

While it could also be fuel, the infrequent event sounds more like the ignitor.

Some autoparts stores can test them, call and ask.

i have a '94 ....with the exact same problem. I was just on this site double checking how to change my fuel filter when i ran across your question. Has anything you've tried fixed it?

If (when it shuts off) it acts as though the key was turned off, it may be the ign. switch.

I have a 1993 corolla with 223,000 miles on it . All original engine and transmission. I was wondering when my engine or tranny would die? I noticed that whenever i start it up from a cold start a white puff of smoke comes out of teh muffler. I think I may be burning oil or leaking oil from teh inside of teh engine. My engine also feels sluggish, I did a tune up and timing belt change at 200,000 miles. Is this condition dangerous or could it worsten? i.e. engine blow up or breathing in bad fumes while driving, I am concerned since my wife is pregnant. I do not want to spend soo much on engine work butn let the corolla "die" Someone else told me to check my oil level and coolant level every now and then because white smoke means that moisture is leaking into the engine from the radiator causing irreversible harm to the pistons and head , valves , gaskets etc. I also had radiator and hoses replaced about a year ago at Sears so it may have not been a qualityy job either.

JOhn Kutty

If you are sure it is white smoke and not blue, then most likely it is a head gasket problem. A compression test would confirm this.

Blue smoke on startup is valve stem seals, which is totally normal on a car this old.

Perform a compresion test to rule out/in head gasket.

If head gasket, then it should be replaced, just did one 2 weeks ago for a friend, about an 8 hour job (I'm old and slow :) ).
Replace head bolts as well, and thermostat.

Valve stem seals require a special tool set.

I would not be concerned about fumes, unless you have an exhaust leak. So check exhaust system.

I probably would not let my wife drive it because of the possible headgasket failure, which would leave her stranded.

how did my head gasket get bad and how much you think it will cost me ? Was i leaking oil or someone told me that moisture from the radiator was leaking into the engine. I am waiting for my engine to die adn drive it to the ground.

You need to perform a compression test to confirm headgasket.

They generally fail because of overheating the engine, and warp. But head bolts can also break causing a failure.

Headgasket repair (if head is not warped) is around $800-1000.

Don't send it to the junkyard yet.

The car listed above (a-fe) quit running suddenly while being driven normally. Cranks but will not start. No spark, no fuel, strong battery. NO MIL light (check engine) and no codes stored. MIL light does not illuminate. Bulb is good. Mechanic said there was power to ECM but no output. Said it needed new ECM but could not warrant it. She cannot afford $1,300.00 replacement cost. No obvious damage to ECM or wiring. I can replace, but first I would like to verify that the ECM has failed. I have it out and have access to the connectors. It is not my car so I do not want to waste her money if it is not the ECM. Any ideas? Thanks.

You can get a used ECM for about a $100.00 I would go that way instead. The only way to check if the ECU is bad is to do a wiring check which I can give you instructions on if you respond back.

Cheers, Ken

Thanks Ken, I have ordered a used one. The mechanics she took it to are reliable and warned her that something else like a sensor shorted out may have caused the ECM to fail. That is why they could not warrant it. This is a 1993 OBD1. I do not see that happening but then again I have never had an ECM go bad. I know a lot of folks blame them but I find it is usually something simpler. Is there anything I should test before trying the used one? Also, where can I find a diagram for the connectors? I would like to jumper the power in to the MIL lamp out to confirm the mil lamp is working. The ECM is 89661-02090 engine is a 7A-FE . Thanks.

It could be a sensor causing the issue. I would disconnect the oxygen and engine coolant temperature sensors to see if it comes back to life. (try starting it) Next I would check the fuses/EFI relay that power the system. Here are guides to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

I would try unplugging the fuel injector one at a time and try and start it as well. If one is shorted it will shut down the ECM

Here is a guide to help you run the codes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995

Check out the diagrams (below).

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

My friend is having problems with her car cutting off when it gets to operating temperature. She will crank it back up and it will idle badly then shut off. After it cools it will crank up and run fine for 15 mins.The distributer has been replaced twice. Could it be the EGR or a plugged catalytic converter?

Symptomatic of a bad ignition module, was a new ign. module included with new dist. or did you re-use old one?

If new module, then I would suspect either EGR or convertor.

You can unbolt convertor and inspect it, Material insde should look like a honeycomb, if melted/cracked, the convertor would need to be replaced.

If convertor is OK, then remove the EGR valve and clean the pintle and base, also make sure the vacuum line to it is not leaking. An EGR that is leaking will cause engine to stall (at idle or low speed) and cause starting driveability problems.

Thanks for the quick response. I will check the suggested problems and give you an update. And, yes, the new distributor came with a new ignition module.

hi tell your friend to use a scan tool to diagnose your coolant sensor any any other sensors. replace those faulty