My engine shuts off after you drive it awhile?

Hi,

Does the temperature gauge go into the hot range even though you feel it isn't actually overheating? If it does, that sounds like the coolant temperature sensor is bad or has a bad connection.

The sensor is on the front left of the intake manifold. Check to make sure the wiring to it is in good condition, not loose, and not damaged. I attached a picture to help you locate it. If the vehicle's computer things the engine is running too hot, it will go into a limp mode and shut down.

Also, there are other things that follow similar conditions. The crankshaft position sensor can cause the engine to stall when it warms up. This can happen when the sensor begins to fail, and once the sensor cools off, the engine will start again. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know. Also, please confirm that I am understanding correctly that although the gauge in the vehicle indicates it's overheating, in reality, it isn't.

Take care,
Joe

How can I tell what's making Impala stall after I start, from a complete stop it happens after about an hour of driving we just put a motor in it fuel pump, fuel filter just about everything I can think of we've replaced including air flow sensor the only things we haven't done are the injectors it sat with gas in it for a year till I was able to save money to put in the motor Please help me find out why it's. stalling on me after Im leaving a stop light.

Hi dogg pound,

Have the Crankshaft Position Sensor checked. It needs a minimum resistance to electrical flow or it will cause the igniition to shut down.

TakeChargeSarge

I have an 00 Impala LS 3.8. I had to replace the upper manifold last winter and then tuned it up. It ran fine for a while and then it would search for power for a split second. Minor at first until the car died all together on the expressway. It started right up though and would do that periodically and then it would not start back up. It would crank for a while, trying several times, and then eventually it will catch and run fine. It also will hesitate and the RPM's will go way up and down like it is choking, but all the hoses and airways are fine. This happens when I first put it into drive if it has been sitting for more than an hour. I had a recall for a spark plug wire clip and asked the mechanic what was working about it and he noticed and pointed out that one of my spark plug wires was arcing and that is likely the problem and since he didn't have that wire in stock, he put plastic insulation on it as a temp help. That completely melted and I replaced the wire. Car ran about the same and has died twice on me yesterday. I will replace anything myself, but can't afford to play trial and error or bring it in for a diagnostic test (which is usually inconclusive anyway). Any ideas on where to look next. Spark plugs again? Fuel injectors? Please any feedback will be helpful.

Thank you,
Mike

Hi misterme79,

The answer is "Crankshaft Position Sensor".

Yours is almost the exact story I was telling anyone who would listen to me when my car's engine was dying almost every day. Most times it was when I was on my way home from work (20 minute drive).
There was no warning and it almost seemed that someone was turning the ignition switch off.

The mechanic I found took the car and did diagnostics (no problems according to the computer). After two days he finally got the engine to die, but instead of troubleshooting, he started it up again and it wouldn't die again. The following day, it died, he did the troubleshooting, decided the ignition module must be intermittent, and replaced the ignition module. The car started and ran fine. The next day, he called and I thought he was going to tell me to come and get my car but, instead, he told me that he thought my car was possessed. After the laugh, he told me that the engine had died again and that the only thing left to look at was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. He removed the new ignition module, installed a new Crankshaft Position Sensor. The car started and the engine didn't die.
The next day, he started and ran the car and the engine didn't die, so he called and told me to come get my car. It has been over three years now and the car has not failed to start, stay running, and has not died except when the ignition switch is turned to the "OFF" position.

Good luck with the other problems. They may or may not be corrected by changing the sensor. Also,
GM didn't do us any favors by removing the heat shields and replacing them with lousy ignition wire clips. I am still steamed about that one. Not much of a fix.

Regards,

TakeChargeSarge

Thanks Sarge. It does sound like the same issue. Any chance you remember how much it cost to have it repaired? I looked into the placement of the sensor and looks like I may have to remove half my engine compartment to get to it.

misterme79,

I forget the exact amount, but it was less than $300 and that included the diagnosis. The current price for the part is $35 to $40 depending on the manufacturer. The part can be purchased online. A GM dealership or neighborhood parts store will probably be considerably more.

TakeChargeSarge

THAT WAS HAPPENING TO ME. I CHANGED THE

MAFLOW SENSOR. RUNNING GREAT NOW.

So, I first notice this problem every once in awhile. There would be no notice. Usually when I had to leave to do something really important. I would try to start the car. It sounds like it wants to start, but won't turn over. Like it isn't getting a spark or won't connect. I would wait about 20 min to an hour. Try again and the car is fine. No weird noise, smell or anything else. code p0420 comes up and i changed the cataytic converter and the check enging light still on and code is same still. could it be the o2 sensor? please give me a solution

This sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

i have a 2000 chevy impala 3.4, w/over 200,000 ml. i ran out of gas 1 day, and after i fueled it it wouldn't start, fuel pump was dead, replaced that, and after that the car kept stalling, took it back, need water pump, still the same problem, check engine light indicated that it was an airflow sensor problem, so i replaced that as well. still my car stalls, cut off when i stop at a stop light, as well as getting off the expressway, or making a turn. can u help me please!!

What was the exact code number being stored and is it still being stored.

p0171 maf

P0171 MAF, and yes its still being stored.

That's not a MAF code at all. That is a lean code that could be due to any number of things. the first thing i would be looking for is a vacuum leak or air leak from the intake snorkel.

maybe thats the wrong code, but i'll go back 2 autozone and check again, but i gets frustrated driving a car thats keeps cutting off, when 2 weeks ago it was running fine, i've put a lot of money in it, and w/207,000 miles should i put anymore?

I would replace the MAF sensor

well i do appreciate your input, I got a new sensor the car has been fine ever since thank you.

Your welcome

i dont speak english, so i hope someone can answer me in spanish please.
i'll explain the problem in spanish and i'll try to do it in enlish too. thank you!

Mi carro se apaga mientras manejo a alta velocidad y en baja velociad (a 100 km/h ó a 20km/h),tambien en PARKING, por lo tanto no es la valvula iac. Lo revisaron con computadora y me dijeron que no es ningun sensor ni la computadora del auto. Revise los arneses de los inyectores y estan bien. Me dijeron en un foro que puede ser el switch de encendido. podra ser?
Ya no se que mas revisar. Gracias. Saludos!.

My car turns off while i´m driving to high speed and slow speed too (10millas and 60 miles),and when it is in PARKING too, so i think isn´t iac valvule. A mechanical check my car with a computer and told me everything is fine (ECU and sensors). I checked injectors harnesses and therer´s no problem. I wrote my problem in a blog and sombody told me that i would check ignition switch. would be that the problem? i don´t know what to do :S Thank you!!!

Ola ibhar19

Change Crankshaft Position Sensor.

TakeChargeSarge

TakeChargeSarge

I´ll do it

thank you so much
Gracias

Car just shuts off like fuel pump stopped and just cranks but will not start. but when unhook battery and put back on car fires up and runs for a while until it does it again. Once all the light came on like car was going to start with key in off position. Replaced ignition modular, battery and fuel filter. Almost like the security system has got it shut off until you undo the battery to reset it . Would it be the ignition switch and key cylinder?

Hello,

It will be the security system if the light is blinking?

Please report back.

Cheers, Ken

The light stays solid . It will cycle through change oil , security then battery.

A couple of times the key would not turn , as if it was wrong key in it .

Is there a chance you can take a video of what is happening with the security light when you crank the car over? Also, try resetting the system by following this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

Well i had to unhook battery to get it to start to get it up on the trailer . So if I record it now it is going to be showing everything working fine.

I am starting to think it is the crankshaft angle sensor can you see if the ignition has spark when the engine will not start? Here is guide to help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Please let us know

Cheers, Ken

Do u think it could be the ignition lock cylinder since at times the key would not turn?

That sounds more like the lock tumbler is wearing out which shouldn't have anything to do with the lock.

Does the ignition system have spark when the engine is cranking over?

Best, Ken

I have a 2000 chevy impala with a 3.8 motor and it drives along fine then it just dies out of nowhere. There battery light comes on in the message box, but the radio still plays and i pull over to the side of the road and it always has started back up but i don't want to be stranded either. Just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter, but obviously that isn't the problem. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi scottycameron,

My 2000 Chevy Impala had the same problem about 3 years ago. Reading your posting was about the same thing I would have written. I didn't replace the fuel pump, but I did replace the fuel filter.

I found that the Crankshaft Position Sensor was the cause of the problem. I was told that the Ignition Module could also shut off the ignition the same way, but I can't imagine an intermittent problem with the ignition module.

I performed a mini-failure analysis on the removed Crankshaft Position Sensor and didn't find any obvious damage or flaws. The only strange thing I found was a build-up of metallic dust on the only magnetic area of the Sensor. It may be that if this metallic dust was removed, it just might correct the problem without replacing the Sensor. If mine were to develop the problem again, that's the first thing I would do.

I would advise changing the Crankshaft Position Sensor first because it is by far the least costly.

Good luck.

TakeChargeSarge

Hey thanks for the post, i checked the ignition module and it past the test twice. I'm putting a crankshaft sensor in Thursday, thanks alot for your input

scottycameron,

Glad to hear the ignition module is o.k.

It surely would be nice to know if cleaning the sensor would cure the problem. Anyway, would you take a look at the middle of the center groove of the sensor and check for a build-up of metallic dust? Let me know what you find.

Thanks,

TakeChargeSarge

Hello sarge, i looked at the sensor and it did have a little build up on it but didn't look too bad, went ahead and replaced it, car hasn't died on me yet, but it kinda seems to be shifting a little wierd, i'm sure the tranny sensor is next.

Engine Performance problem
2000 Chevy Impala 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My car will stall while driving and will restart. No codes.

Hi estoner99,

I had the same problem with my 2000 Chevy Impala LS, 3.8 ltr V-6.
The Crankshaft Position Sensor was the culprit. After it was replaced, the engine didn't stall anymore. That was over 3 years ago.

Good luck,

TakeChargeSarge

My '97 328 has been stalling when I come to a stop. Not all the time. Sometimes it will dip well below idle and stumble like its going to stall, and then recover back to normal idle speed. In an effort to fix this problem, I have replaced the following parts, but to NO avail.

Idle Control Valve (ICV)
Mass Air Flow Meter (MAF)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Intake Boot
Spark Plugs
TCC Lock-up Solenoid (In transmission)
All Vacuum Lines and Hoses

I am starting to lean more towards this being a automatic transmission problem, more so than a intake or engine problem.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated from [u:c573e2ff45]anyone[/u:c573e2ff45] at this point. I don't know where to go from here.

Also, I have never gotten a "Check Engine" light at any time, nor has scanning the OBC renderred any fault codes of any kind.

PLEASE HELP!!!!

-BMW FREQ :?:

Have you tried a coolant sensor? This also sounds like a fuel pump or the crankshaft angle sensor has gone out. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.