Car engine not starting up?

Hello,

Yes, a broken timing belt would cause a vehicle not to start. In your vehicle's case it wouldn't start nor would the fuel injectors work or the spark plugs. I have included a description of the Crankshaft Position Sensor in the diagrams down below. I have also included a few links down below for you to go to.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please go to these links and the information I have included in the diagrams down below for you and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

My car will not start in the rain. Sometimes when it stops raining, it will gurgle while hesitating to start. And then another issue (not sure if its related) when I am excelarating up hill it putters!If I let off the gas some it will run regular.

Hi Blonde80, If the non starting is due to fuel issues, then the PGM-FI main relay is the likely culprit. Remove the relay and resolder the ciruit board to see if it helps.

I have a 1994 Honda Accord. It takes a while for it to start. I've noticed that it will not start until the check engine light goes off! I've changed the Main Relay. What could be the problem?

Hi nciowr007,

If the Check Engine Lamp tends to stay on more than 2 seconds before going off, the PCM is failing. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back. Other things to check would be the grounds at the thermostat housing.

Thank you for the information! The check engine light stays on 5 min-50 min. it really just depends on the day. What exactly is a PCM?

Hi nciowr007,

Seems you have a fault with the Power Control Module ( PCM ), layman's term is engine computer.

Recheck the PGM-FI main relay and if no fault found, you either need to rebuild the PCM or replace it. Before doing that, check the PCM ground connections at the thermostat housing.

I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX 4clylinder. The timing belt had snapped while I was driving. Since the honda accord engine is a interference it had damage the values. So I decide to put another accord motor. I install another honda accord motor, the same motor as the one I had in my car. Now the new motor is install and it wont start. So I install a new ignition and a new computer and it still doesnt turn on. The battery and alternator are good. What could be the problem??? I really dont know what else to do??

You need to provide more help to us to get this running. Does the car have spark? Did you keep the old motor to possibly pull sensors off?

the car has no spark or any type of current going trought the car.. Could it possibly be the sensors?? What other problems can cuase the car not to start??

With no spark at the plugs right? Then use a volt ohm meter and check to see if there is current to the coil. It is most likely located in the distributor. It needs to have 12 volts of current to it. Did you keep the old car engine?

My 94 Accord would die at hard stops while low on gas. A few weeks later died again this time wouldn't start back up. No fuel was being delivered from pump. We dropped the tank, replaced the pump and nothing. Did some research, took out main relay and re-soldered bad connections.Last night I put the relay back in and nothing again, car just cranks. Relay should be good since the 3 clicks are heard when attempting to start.I cant really hear if the pump hums based on its location. Any suggestions as to where I should check next? We will check the fuel filter today.

You might try replacing the fuel filter and while it is diconnected turn the switch to see if you have fuel pumping out. Try to direct it safely in to a container but it should be quick and easy to tell if there is pressure there. If so, move along to the fuel filter replacement and if that does not do it, the injectors and rail would be next to examine.

Thanks.....Will do and keep you updated

i have a 1994 honda accord that came in my shop that will not start. customer said it was fuel pump but after testing fuel pump was working and pressure was good . when it came in it was also firing but now it will not fire. tried new distributor & coil with no luck. have tested wires as much as i can with chilton book. am lost do you have any suggestions

Inspect and test the PGM-FI main relay

have two books one is just for location of relays and sensor does not show this in either. could you tell me location thanks

PGM-FI Main Relay Behind left side of dash

I have a 94 Honda Accord 2.2L 4 cyl. auto trans. about 187,000 miles. It would not start when outside temperture is hot, but it would start when the temperture is cool or cold. It will turn over, and it seems like not getting fuel. What's wrong with my car? Thank you.

Verify what is missing....fuel or spark

It has spark but it seems like not getting fuel.

Need to verify it with a pressure gauge. Also need to install a "noid" light to verify injector pulse. Could be a problem in the distributor

Just also want to let you know the problem i have right now it won't start when my car sits in the sun and the outside temperture is hot. And it will start with no problem when my car is not sitting in the sun and the temperture is cool or cold.

I have 94 accord 158000, i had a remote starter in it,it would start if i use that remote, when i try from the key it would turn over but will not keep going, i taken the remote start out to make sure that it wasn't it and now it just tirns over and will not stay stared

injector pulse checked good. What is your next recommendation?

Try pulling out the EFI relay and take it apart. Check very closely for bad solder joints. Repair or replace as you wish. If that does not do it, I think it will, I might suspect the ignition switch.

you're an 110% correct! It's was EFI main relay! I replaced it, and my car is working fine now. Thank you.

OK, I'll start from the beginning. A month ago my Honda Accord LX manual car drove fine except for when I applied too much gas, it would idle perfect. It would bog down until I let off a little bit then shift just fine. There was like a "sweet spot" for my gas pedal to avoid the bogging. It drove for a while like that until one day It just died while I was driving, started right back up and drove a couple more miles, then died again.This time it wouldn't turn over, just crank. I'd have it towed to my house to have it start right up like nothing happened the next day!? I have changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, distributer cap and rotor, Main Relay, and new plugs and wires with no result!? I've read some forums regarding similar issues to mine and all signs pointed to the Main Relay. I just bought one the other night put it in, and now it will not stay running at all and throws an ignition systems code when it dies, code 15. The one thing I did notice, is with the original Main Relay when I'd turn it over, the fuel pump would turn on start just fine idle until it warmed up then start to bog and shut down. Id try to start right away just after and would not hear the fuel pump kick on, but I would have spark. When I throw the NEW Main Relay in, the fuel pump kicks on EVERY time and I have spark. Once it starts then bogs and dies I have no spark but fuel pump still kicks on. This is driving me CRAZY!? I'm starting to think It might be electrical wiring issues shorting things out? I would GREATLY APPRECIATE some insight in this incredibly irritating problem, Thank You!

Hi COLIM696,

You are throwing so much $ on the table, it should get you a new car.

Code 15 means the distributor is faulty and the symptoms do indicate that. Most likely the ignition coil and/or ignition control module is bad.

Thank you KHLow for your input. The thing I'm confused on, is that it only comes on until I turn the key off then it disappears? I had my dad take a look at it and he has a mechanic friend. They hooked it up to some kind of computer and they say everything checks out right. They said my engine is starving for fuel and that I have fuel in the fuel rail, but it's not getting into the engine, but my injectors are fine? They came to the conclusion that it is a bad ECM? Is that possible with my symptoms or could it be a shorted out wire somewhere? Not sure they took the time to really check because it was 90* that day and I wanted a professional opinion.
Thank You!

When you have a Code 15, the ECM would not get any signal to fire the injectors. It could be a bad ECM but the Code 15 have to be checked and rectified first.

Connect a test lamp to the Black/Yellow wire and while cranking, ensure the light stays on, indicating there is battery voltage there. If not, you could have a bad ignition switch.

I'm sorry about the late reply everyone! Thank you SO much for your help with this annoying issue! The good news is, I took a chance with a gut feeling and just replaced the whole distributor coils and all. Wala! Fired right up and purred like a kitten:)! The messed up part is, the first time I needed a tow the tow driver explained to me it might be the shaft inside the distrubutor shorting out. Seems he was absolutely right based on the fact that everything else was fine. Thanks AGAIN everyone!!

You're welcome.

Thanks for the input.

Have a great day.

i was told my engine is getting no electricity/no spark i changed the whole distributor the wires and plugs and still not spark what can the problem be i was told distributor changed that i was told the main relay switch, i was also told the alternator, and i was told the crankshaft sensor what can it be so i can finally just resolve the problem been tryna get it running since summer

Hi hfiend,

Is the distributor rotor turning while cranking?

If yes, test for power supply to distributor Black/Yellow wire at ignition switch on and while cranking. If power is available all the time, the distributor ignition coil or ICM is bad.

No sparks has nothing to do with main relays. It should be the distributor power supply or ignition coil, ICM etc and a distributor change usually solves the problem, unless the replacement distributor is faulty as well.

i have problems restarting my car after driving short distances 10-15 i usually park and turn off my car when i return it does not start up i just keep trying and eventually after usually 5 min it will restart.

another problem with my car is it will idle from 1000-2000 rpms while in park however during cold temperatures it reves between 1000-3000

Hi ricardo1990,

The difficult/unable to start is most probably due to a faulty main relay.

The high idling both at cold start and warmed up should be due to vacumn leakages somewhere. Check for torn/disconnected vacumn hoses etc.

Check for clogged coolant hoses at EACV, fast idle valve and throttle body.

Engine Performance problem
1994 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

My car wants to start but wont catch.And white smoke comes out of the valve cover.Just fixed timing and switched distributor with a good one and I have spark.I also have fuel and I can hear my fuel pump click on.My check engine light comes on but doesnt stay on.

I would double check the spark plug firing order. They might be off and that will cause the problem you are looking at. Start there as it is the simplest.

Intermitently, my car won't start after it has been warmed up. This happens only when it is hot outside. It turns over but will not start. After 5 minutes, it starts! Any idea where to start troubleshooting?