Trying to get my car running

Welcome to 2CarPros.

Kenny, this is going to be a tough one. However, lets give it a try. Since you mentioned timing marks, are you trying to install the distributor or need help adjusting the points?

If it is related to the points, I need to know engine size (how many cylinder) to determine what is called dwell. That is the amount of time the points stay open. Also, if you are working with replacing the distributor, let me know.

Any pictures you have will be helpful so I can see what you are working on. Also, please keep in mind, I have absolutely no technical information on this vehicle, so let's hope the basics get the job done. When you respond, please be as specific as you can regarding what needs done.

I will watch for your reply. By the way, this is a far cry from a Smartcar. LOL

Take care,
Joe

Joe

Hi,
here are the pictures, I a not replacing the distributor, the car was running about a year ago.
Just trying to get it to run again. There are no timing marks, no way to put a vacuum gauge on it etc. If you need other views of the engine to make it easier to help me get the car running.
Please let me know.

Thank you, Kenny

Welcome back:

The first thing, you need to get the plug wires to the correct cylinder. Is anything casted on the cylinder head? A standard firing order for a 4 cyl is a 1342. Do you see that anywhere?

Joe

Yes, 1342 is what I have used in the past, looking at the distributor cap.
Number 1 plug is the closest one to the front of the car.
Looking at the head of the car, number one is the first plug facing the front radiator of the car.

Is this correct? See photos>

Thank you,

Ken

Welcome back:

I would say yes. The closest to the front should be cylinder 1. Now, make sure the number 1 cylinder piston is at top dead center and the rotor button under the distributor cap points at the number 1 spark plug wire. Also, confirm the rotation direction of the rotor to make sure you have the wires in the correct firing order.

Let me know what you want to do next.

Joe

Joe

Hi I turned the engine over just to
get the rotor to match up with cap,
number one plug.

please see pictures

thank you,

Kenny

Welcome back:

Now that you have aligned the rotor button with number one on the cap, is the number 1 cylinder still at top dead center (TDC)? If it is, give it a try and let me know the results.

Joe

Joe.

Good morning, I believe the number 1 cylinder is at top dead center. The issue at this moment I am not getting any spark at the points. I turned the engine over in the dark, no spark.

I checked the battery, it is fine.

Kenny

Joe Hi

I checked the wire going to the coil, I get a spark from the wire. I believe part of the issue is the connection between the condenser, wire on the distributor. There are fiber washers, not sure if they are placed correctly. I have attached a photo.
How should I approach this? What steps should I take?

Thank you, Kenny

Hi Kenny.
The washers look okay. When you say you get spark, is that when you remove the coil wire from the distributor? Is it a just one spark or does it pulse on and off? Is there anything from the plug wires as far as spark?

Let me know. The reason I ask is because if there is spark off the coil, then the problem is between the rotor button and distributor cap.

I will watch for your reply. Also, let me know how you gaped the plugs and if you have one of the old dwell meters.

Take care,
Joe

Joe,

Hi, first I took the hot wire going to the distributor, removed it. then turned on the key, touched the hot wire to a ground and got a spark. Then I turned the car over, removed plug, attached number one wire, grounded plug, No spark at plug. Pulled coil wire from center of coil, grounded it, again no spark. Also, I have a dwell meter, have not used for many years.

Thanks again,

Kenny

Welcome back:

Same here. I've had it for many years and it just collects dust. LOL (dwell meter)

Have you set the points? Are they opening and closing? Are they in good condition?

Joe

Joe

Hi, per my previous email, I am getting the low voltage from the wire to the distributor. I am not getting the high voltage from
the coil, no voltage from the plug wires.

Perhaps the below diagram will be helpful.


Thanks for your help.

Kenny

Joe

One more thing, this car has reverse polarity, positive is ground. Would you know if the hot wire coming from the coil to distributor should it be connected to the positive or negative side of the coil?

Kenny

All I can say is that on a traditional ignition, the coil gets power from the positive. I don't want you to make a mistake, so I hate to say it, but on this vehicle, I'm not sure.

Now, I looked again at the pictures. The Is the nylon washer on the left or right of the connection? If on the right, is there any way for it to make contact? On older vehicles, often times the left side of where it bolts to the distributor is a plastic insulator. If you have the nylon washer on the right, it may not be making any connection,

It's just a thought. It's really hard for me to tell in the pic.

Let me know.

Joe

PS: I would love to see a picture of the vehicle. Do you have any?

Joe,

I am sending you some photos, please take a closer look at the way the points, condenser and hot wire are connected to the distributor body.

Please advise.

Thank you.

Kenny

Welcome back"

Picture 1 looks fine. How far do you have the points opening? You have the condenser and points tied together. I assume the wire with the red connector goes to the coil negative. Here is what happens. When the points are closed, low voltage completes the coil circuit and sends a spark. When the points open, the condenser accepts the power. If the points are not opening it won't work, and if they are always open, the condenser will get all the power.

Picture 2 looks unbelievable. Wow is that thing beautiful. I have never seen one and it looks great!!! In what country are you located? I have never seen one in the US.

Joe

Joe Hi,

Just for history sake, The American Bantam and Austin are similar cars they are someway tied to the WW2 Jeep. Don't look anything alike. Again thank you for your help. yes the red tip wire goes to the negative of the coil. The plugs open and close, I cleaned them but still no spark. what is the next step?

If the timing is off would I still get a spark?

Again, thank you

Kenny

Welcome back:

Timing issues won't cause no spark. It will just spark at the wrong time. Are you certain the rotor is turning when the engine is being cranked? If you remove the distributor cap and crank the engine, does it turn? Have you checked the coil itself?

Let me know.

Joe

Joe,

please see video, the points open and closes and rotor turns.
please help me get this running.

I feel like the rotor I go around and around, but go nowhere.

What do I need to do? again please
see video.

should not take this long.

Thank you,

Kenny

Welcome back:

Kenny, I'm trying. It would be much easier if I was there.

Where did you have the test light touching? Where did you have ground? If you are getting power off the bottom of the points, that shouldn't be happening.

Joe

Joe

hi, The ground was on the metal of chassis.I believe its the way the points and condenser are grounded. Would you know if there is some type of gasket on the inside of the distributor, between the points and distributor wall? Also, on the outside of the distributor, how are washers, hot wire and condenser connected.

Please see photo.

Kenny

Welcome back:

I was able to track down a basic wiring schematic for points and condenser online. Note that the signal wire comes from the coil (-) where it is joined to both the points and condenser. The points are grounded through the distributor's base plate and the condenser is grounded on the distributor housing.

As far as the wiring, you can't have a spacer between the points and the base plate or you lose ground to the points.

Tell me something, by any chance does this vehicle have a component known as a ballast resister? On older vehicles (and I'm not sure about yours) a ballast resister was used to protect the points from receiving more power than was needed.

As far as the wiring on the distributor, it looks correct.

Let me know.

Joe

Joe,

This car does not have a ballast resistor. I removed the points, they looked burnt. The question is there is a gasket on the inside where the point screw go through the distributor housing? There is also fiber washers on the outside of the distributor.
I believe the reason for electrical issues has to do with points, condenser, hot wire and fiber washers not being connected correctly.

Please see photos.

Thank you

Kenny

Welcome back:

There should be something preventing them from grounding where the connection comes through. The only place that should have power is the bolt which goes straight to the points. That screw should not ground at any point. Ground for the points is through the distributor base plate.

Let me know.

Joe

Joe,

Yes I agree, I pulled the points, getting new ones, will place fiber washers at all connecting points. Would you know if the condenser needs a fiber washer where it connects with a screw to the distributor body?

Thank you,

Kenny

Welcome back:

You need to make sure it isn't grounded to where it attaches with the points. So, if the wire to it is touching the side of the distributor, you need one.

I was telling my brother about your car. We looked up pics of them. Now he wants one. LOL We need to get this thing running so you can enjoy it.

Take care,
Joe

JOE

Hi, tell your brother the horse power in this engine is low, when it was running had difficulty making it up a hill.

Talking about Horsepower would, you know what the compression should be on this engine when doing a compression test?
Also, are there any additives on the market that will increase compression?

Thank you, Kenny

I don't have the compression specs, but suspect around 100 psi. Take a look at the picture below. It has around 20hp. That is unbelievable.

As far as additives, I always run the other directions and never use them. They do make a compression additive, but in my mind, all it will do is make the oil thicker to help prevent compression from getting past the rings.

Joe.

Joe hi, where have you been,

Please read below, need your help.


Hi, per your past emails I put the new points in, attached the coil, condenser hot wire from the coil, Fiber washers, etc.

I have the distributor cap off, when I turn car over I am not getting any spark at the points. What I am getting is a spark within
the distributor cap, I believe its from the large middle coil wire from the coil. When I remove the large coil wire from the center of the coil, I will then get a "small spark" at the points. Does that make any sense to you? is there a way to get a stronger spark
at the points?

Thank you,

Kenny

Kenny:

You're getting spark within the cap? Are you sure the cap is good? Also, do you have 12v to the points?

Hi, its a 6 volt system, i don't believe your going to get 6 volts at the points. how do you check? The distributor cap is brand new.

Please answer my questions.

Thank you,

Kenny

Kenny:
Use a digital multi meter or volt meter and check for power to the points. Here are directions on using one. You should have battery voltage to the points at cold start (key in the start position). If there is a resister on the vehicle, when the key returns to run, the voltage will drop.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Also, if you are seeing spark at the coil wire on the distributor cap, you shouldn't. Either you have a crack in the cap or the wire is bad and arcing.

Let me know.
Joe

Joe,

Hi, I am scratching my head. now i am not getting any spark at all at the points. I may have placed too many fiber washers between contact points. could you look at the photo that is attached that shows details of points, condenser and hot wire connections?
Please let me know your findings.

Thanks,

Kenny

Joe, please read previous email. also, I used a multi meter, grounded one multi meter wire and touched points when opened using the meter, got 8.25 volts. when points were closed there were zero volts. Also when opening and closing points I could hear a clicking sound within the coil.

Kenny:

The idea that you are hearing a click from the coil confuses me. Are you certain the coil is good?

I am going to ask the owner of the site to jump in. He is an excellent mechanic and may see something I am missing. You should see a reply from Ken.

Joe

The videos help best, but can I ask if the points are sparking when you crank the engine over? Also check the continuity of the power pole through the distributor make sure it does not ground out.

Hi, thank you for getting back to me. you said to do a continuity test on the Power Pole, are you talking about the main shaft going down into the engine block, the distributor housing? not certain what the power pole is, unless it is in a newer distributor.

thanks again,

Kenny

HI, I used the multi meter, I set it to continuity where the meter beeps. I placed the red probe on the screw from the points on the
outside of distributor. I took the black probe and touched the distributor body on the inside. When the points are closed I get
a beeping sound. When I open the points I don't get a beep. Are the points working correctly or should I try something else?

Thank you,

Kenny

Do the points spark when the engine is being cranked over? Please send video