Engine sputtering

Sounds to me as if you could have an intake leak, (MAF) Mass air flow sensor (if equipped) is not working well, cracks in the intake hose after the MAF sensor allowing air in the engine that is not metered by the MAF, or a fuel pressure problem.

why does my 1998 dodge grand caravan run great sometimes,then backfires,coughs,and spudders other times?

First, if you have a check engine light on, have the computer scanned for codes and send them to me. Next, check for a leaking fuel pressure regulator. Do this by pulling the rubber hose at the regulator (the FPR is located on the fuel rail by the injectors) and check for the presence of fuel (feel/smell). If there's any, replace it.

Engine Performance problem
1997 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 114k miles

After the engine is warmed up, when at stop, or idle, coughing and sputtering kicks in right away upon accelerating, with a follow up of possible stalling.
If accelerating very lightly from stop up to the 20 - 30 mph range, this is sometimes avoided.
This does not happen when the engine is cold.

Could this be a faulty EGR, air , dirty fuel injector, or fuel /filter problem? A 15% ethanol blend is in the unleaded gas.
Thank you

Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires

While driving my '97 Dodge Caravan SE on the highway at various speeds, it will shutter making the whole van shake and the speedometer needle flop around going from 50 or 55 quickly falling to 40 and then back up to original speed of 50 or 55. All of this happens in a matter of seconds. It then resumes normal speed and drives just fine for awhile, and then all of a sudden it will do it again. If cruise control is on when this happens it will shut the cruise control off. Also, it dies when stopped at a red light. It will not stay idleing. Starts right back up no problem.

Hi:
First, have the computer scanned at a nationally recognized parts store for trouble codes. It sounds like an electrical problem, and there is a good chance that the computer may have stored a code. Keep in mind, most parts stores will do this for free.

Joe

I have a 97 Caravan 3.8. Lately the car sputters while idling and while driving. Sometimes it even makes a sound like a misfire through the carberator, but it doesnt have one. Anyone have any idea what would cause this ?

You can try and see if any codes are present. Turn the key on, off, back on, back off and back on again.

The check engine light will blink for a series and pause, write down how many blinks, it will do this again, this is the 2nd digit. IF there is a longer pause, then a second code is comiing, just write it down the same way. Post what codes you get.

The codes I got are 12454327272155

Do you think its a bad injector or fuel filter ? If its an injector, how do tell which one is bad ?

Good greif there are quite a few.

12 means the battery has been disconnected rectly.

55 means the test has completed to record codes.

43 is proably the misfire.

The 45 is says there is a controller code present

21 is oxygen sensor related.

27 is injector related.


There has probably been a ton of carbon added to the system from the misfire causing the o2 codes. That may go away.

IF you want to start at the inkectors, then use an ohmeter and check the resistance . If it is anything other than 10-16 ohms, it is bad.

Fuel pressure will help tell the status of the filter.

1997 Dodge Caravan SE w/190k+ miles. After successfully replacing alternator(!), van ran fine next day. After fueling vehicle same day, ran fine for +-10 miles, then an intermittent cut-off/sputter 1-10 seconds long about 5 miles apart. Suspected bad fuel, added injector cleaner...no change. Drove another hour or so, sputter began to worsen. Pulled over...engine ran fine at idle, but as soon as load put on would start sputtering. Drove a mile or so with engine acting like plugs failing one by one - check engine light comes on, and finally cuts completely off. After +-10 minutes was able to start, but barely running - enough to get off road. Engine turns over but no start.
Luckily there was a auto service center in strip mall where van died. Tech could not put diag machine on, but checked basic electrical and fuel pressure. Tech indicated he thought timing chain "something major broken inside engine" because of "how fast it was turning over".
I'm not an ASE, but I've had timing chains fail before and it's not a gradual thing...just doesn't ring true to me. As I'd just gotten fuel before problem began I suspected bad fuel or clogged injectors, but engine won't even try to fire - just turns over. With having just replaced alternator, I'm now wondering if ECM is fried?
Thanks for all your help!

dont buy the timing chain diag either. a compression test will let you know real fast. does truck have spark? usually the cigarette lighter fuse is blown, thats why he cant get data from computer.

I have replaced so much on this van and now it is sputtering and dying. It will idle, but, the RPM jump and then be fine. Then we start driving again and it dies. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. What should I be looking at. When this happens, it does blow white smoke.

White smoke usually indicates coolant getting into the combustion chamber. That is usually the result of a bad head gasket. Have you noticed coolant consumption? Also, check the motor oil to make sure the coolant isn't mixing with it.

There is no mixture. Could it be a throttle or idle sensor?

It does not always blow white smoke.

That's questionable. Since it dies, has the check engine light come on? Also, is it truly white smoke or could it be just steam you see from the exhaust?

It only does it when starting it in the morning. But, not at any time after that. It starts fine usually. It starts sputtering and dying about a mile down the road. After that, it is hard to get started. When it is finally started, pressing on the gas, it sputters. Then, when taking your foot of the gas, the RPM gauge shoots up to a range of 5-9 and then dies.

Okay, I need to understand something. First, you mentioned that it blows white smoke when this happens. Your last post mentioned that it only does it when you first start it. Can you confirm? Also, has the check engine light come on?

1996 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive 242000 miles

when i hit the gas to go from a stopped point, my car stutters really bad, then when i get to a certain speed it doesnt do it any more. what could this be?

Lack of acceleration,chugging,hesitating,bogging,misfiring etc. could be caused by one of the following below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it.

We no longer see any white smoke and the check engine light has been on since I bought it. A mechanic looked at and said don't worry about it. I bought spark plugs and wire. Also, I have bought an oil pan and everything for that. I have replaced the transmission, fuel filter, fuel pump, brake lines, battery, alternator, and serpentine belt. The transmission has a very very small drip leak. I hope this helps.

It starts just fine at first. Then when you drive about 2 miles, it starts sputtering and dying. Then you have to wait about 5-10 minutes before it starts again.

Since the check engine light is on, I need to know what trouble codes are stored in it. Is it possible for you to make it to a nationally recognized parts store to have them scan it for you. Most do it for free.

I can do that. I just have to find one very close to my house. Could it be better if I buy one from Advanced Auto for $35.00 or $40.00?

Does it help any that my ex is a master mechanic? When I purchased the van, the check engine light was always on and he scanned it and told me to not worry about that. It would just stay on.

It may have new codes now.

What would cause my 94 caravan to spit and sputter and hop and jump when idling and when reved up all the time it blows out black out the exhaust pipe and skips and jumps when idling and moving and even reved up i tried changing the plugs and oil and plug wires and the distributor and i put a new catalytic converter in it and still nothing changed.

Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester and regulator. go here for more info

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Transmission problem
1994 Dodge Caravan 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Long story shorter. Bought cheap transmission while on vacation, 2,000 miles away. Shifted irregularly and shuddered ever since. Replaced fluid and solenoid cluster, a bit better but not great. Thinking of replacing TCU next. Is that reasonable? Where is the TCU? Can a nosepicker such as myself do that? Which TCUs are interchangable?

You should be ok just plugging in a TCU on a 94 model year.Not sure if it will fix it, could be an internal problem, those tranny's are hit and miss.The TCU should be year and model specific for your vehicle, should have part #'s on it

Where is the TCU on a '94 Dodge 3.3 Grand Caravan?

Should be mounted to the inside of the drivers side front fender

You need to find out if there are trans codes in trans , if no codes need to find out what the cvi,s are clutch volume index. can be retrived from a scanner such as snapon otc ect. I would not recommend buying a tran computer (TCM trans control modual) first of all they are flashable ,( can be reprogramed). If your cvi's are not in specs you will most likley need a trans overhaul, sounds like seals to me.feel free to ask me more questions on this 27 year dodge/chrysler trans mechanic.
good luck