Car will not start it ran perfectly yesterday?

Umm you are welcome? Just an FYI, usually when a battery gets that weak over night, it is a light or something that was left on. Sometimes there is an electrical short that is drawing on the battery. Anyway, you got it fixed yourself. Nice work.

Yes indeed! As I thought about this more, I realized that I had an ABS code stored a couple weeks ago. It cleared itself (I think I got water in a sensor) after it dried out. Since then, my beeper does not work when I hit the lock button on my door (usually it dings twice to indicate it will lock after the door is shut). It still locks but the dinger is not dinging. So after remembering this I realized when the headlight switch is left on and the key is removed from the ignition, it should have beeped at me in fast mode to indicate my headlights were left on. This function is no longer working, thus my leaving the lights on last night, draining my battery. So, I am still in need of someone to help me figure out why my dinger quit dinging. Any ideas? Your help is greatly-appreciated, in advance!

I would think a blown fuse for the chime could cause that, but I do not see a fuse for that chime on ProDemand or ALLData. I would suggest checking the fuses. By chance have you noticed anything else that is not working? Also, some cars have an on-board computer that will allow you to change certain settings (like the chime sound). If your car has one, it is possible that you just turned it off by mistake. There might be some more useful information on that in your owner's manual.

Hopefully those ideas help. Let us know what you find.

It is my understanding that there are a number of things that will stop the remote start function to cease working, such as a code stored form an engine check light. I recently had a tire blowout, and since I attempted to use fix-a-flat (despite the tire pressure monitor system manufacturer's warnings), the pressure monitor was intermittently working and did cause a light to come on with a message to check the TPMS status. Since then, the TPMS on that one wheel has been working flawlessly, yet the remote starter won't work. I am only assuming that the problem was caused by this particular code being stored. My question is "how do I trouble-shoot the remote start function from this point?" Is it as simple as clearing a stored code? I am also wondering if my local Autozone would loan me a code-checker device, such as the Tech 2...?

Your local autozone is not going to have a Tech 2, it is a dealer item unless someone has purchased there own. I would try disconnecting the battery cables and shorting them together to clear all memory.

Definitely scanning for codes would be the way to go to make sure the proper part is replaced. I can say from experience that the hood latch has an ajar switch built into it that fails quite often. In some cases though I have seen some corroded wiring nearby to the latch.

got stuck when key wouldn't turn in the ignition. tried everything & the tow truck driver also tried before towing.

Sometimes if the wheels are sharply turned and the steering wheel is locked, you can try turning the steering wheel just a little in the opposite direction and the key will turn. However, the tow-truck driver should have known and tried this. So it's probably a defective ignition key cylinder.

Hi my engine doesn't not start, do you know what wrong?

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Fantastic, thanks WRENCHTECH great answer.

This is the third or fourth time this has happened. The first few times the ignition locked up I played around with it for several minutes then it would pop lose. This time I have been messing with it for three and half hours and nothing. So far I have oiled the tumblers, turned the steering wheel back and fourth (which is now locked), and I made sure the car is in park. I'm about out of ideas so I was seeing if I could find some help online.

pretty well known ISSUE. most likely lock cylinder. dealer may replace for no charge.

Is there any other thing that could be causing this.

nothing EASY.

nice
do you know where i can buy a lock cylinder.
ive been lookin around online and it seems like these places never heard of a lock cylinder before

I recently have bought a 2008 chevy cobalt and sometimes i go to start the car and the car does not want to start. its not the battery b/c everything else works on the vehicle the radio,the windshield wipers, the lights. i have taken it to the shop and they state that there is nothing wrong with the vehicle, then i took it to another shop and they stated that there was a code that showed up on the machine and did not give me further information on it. i just dont understand what it could be it is a 2008 it shouldnt be having these problems any suggestions on what it could be

Hi there,

It would be good to have this code as it may be a clue as to your problem, when you say it wont start,,,, is it cranking over and not firing or is there no crank?

Mark (mhpautos)

Just to add to this one a worn down key can cause your issue if its worn down try having a key cut from the vin number.If you have the key copied you will end up with a another worn out key.Also to find a cylinder if you dont want to get one from the dealer try www.parts.com

when i go to start it it sounds like my battery is dead but my lights turn on my windshield wipers work and my radio turns on its just the initial car wont start they said something about that the code was saying my car was getting enough fuel but yet they refused to do any work stated they would wait til my car did it again. and also i have taken it in b/c my dash lights and my radio light will turn off whenever they want and they seem to find nothing wrong with that either

I talked to a guy from the dealership and he said it would be over 300 bucks for the lock cylinder and labor.... So i'm going to do it myself, but first im going to try the new key. To get a key cut from the vin # I have to got through the dealership right? or can I go to a locksmith?

Some of the of more up to date locksmiths can do that call around.Also i looked up your cylinder and they sell it at www.parts.com i dont know if it comes with tumblars most of the later model cylinders do.You would just have to code it to your key code.Make sure you get the key code for the ignition cylinder when you get your key cut.The tumblar closest to the key hole is position number 1.

Also you can try lightly tapping on the key hole opening with a hammer then try turning cylinder.If that doesnt work then try doing that with the new key if it still wont turn.Because if you cant turn the cylinder its going to make it much harder to replace the cylinder.

thanks for the help i appreciate it.
im sure ill have more questions in the future

your welcome keep us posted on how it goes or if you have more questions.

i have a 2008 chevy cobalt it will not start the battery is strong but when i turn the key it click that is all check the battery cables tried to boost and still nothing

If you hear it clicking there is a good chance it's the starter causing it but that would have to be tested first.

I talked to another guy from the dealership and he said that the key should not be that worn down yet,with the car being only four years old but he seemed to be confused by his own words. I figured I would get your opinion as well as his. Also, I'm just going to order the lock cylinder just to be sure. What is the first step in getting the old one out? I'll probaly start the project tomorrow once the sun comes up.

I have seen cars only a couple of years old and the key is totally worn out.It all depends on how much you use the key.Also the first steps on changing the cylinder all depend on if you can turn it.Did you get a new key made yet?

no I haven't done that yet. Should I just do that to be sure?

Just for giggles

I have a '95 neon that the key will not rotate back to "lock", so it will come out....happens often...i'm lazy, only gave $250 for it. Good a/c and 30 mpg! As long as i can get the key out, i will not perform surgery!!!

This is our spare "automatic tranny" car, mainly for my wife to drive.....i won't let her drive my standard tranny jeeps....she scared me so bad, the time, i did let her!

My trick is to unlock the "tilt column" and sorta gently bounce it up and down a couple of times, it'll then rotate back.

My guess is there is linkage inside (probably to the shifter, in a round about way) for the "park lock feature"....it just will not slide freely into place, less it's moved w/ the tilt

Maybe this will do something for you

The medic

Yes i would have a fresh non copied key made and try that.Thats the first thing i try before changing a cylinder.

I went on parts.com to order the lock cylinder and as i went to order it i noticed that instead of listing the ignition lock cylinder it said mechanical catalog. I didn't know if I was ordering the part I need or a catalog of parts so I did not order yet. I wanted to know what I was ordering before I order it. Do any of you know if that website is authentic or b.s.?

Yes that website is legit i have ordered from that website atleast 3 or 4 times and have always been happy with my purchases from there.

when your car starts to sound loud on crank up and only when you push the gas wat does this mean?

loud as exaust loud, or loud as a ticking in the engine??? assuming this has an eco-tec in it, engine noise is most likely caused by lack of maintence... without more info, i cant really answer your question.

Hi there and thanks in advance for any advice you can give me on what the issue could be. I have the car listed above that will not start. I first thought it may be the battery but all the dash lights work the radio etc. when I go to turn the key it will not turn and my clutch is stuck and jammed in park. I don’t know what the issue could be. I took apart the shift and got it to move but it didn’t solve my problem car still wouldn’t start and it’s stuck back in park and I’m still unable to turn the key. The steering wheel isn’t locked or stuck. Any idea what could be the problem and what I’m looking at as far as prices to get it fixed? Thanks.

Grace

Hi Grace and thanks for using 2CarPros.

I need to better understand. Automatics don't have a clutch, so I'm not sure what you mean by it's stuck. Next, you indicate when you turn the key, it won't turn. Do you mean the key or the engine? You indicated the lights turn on, so I'm thinking the key turns. Next, the shifter being locked in park can be the result of a few things. However, if the key lock doesn't turn, it won't move.

I'm sorry but I need to better understand what is happening. If you could explain, I feel confident I can help.

Let me know,

Joe

Hi there I'm sorry I didn't quite word it right. I meant that the shifter is stuck in park and will not budge. Also, I mean that the key will not turn over at all. The lights work if you turn them on with the headlight switch so i know there is power and it is not a dead battery. hope i could clarify that up. Thanks again,

Okay, that makes sense.

Now, it sounds like a couple things are going on here. The first thing I need you to do is check if the brake lights are working. (don't laugh the brake light switch powers the park interlock system) no brake lights, it won't come out of park.

Do that and let me know.

Joe