Car cranks but does not start and run?

Welcome to 2CarPros.


When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

If it started with starting fluid, then it is a fuel related issue. With that, you need to check the fuel pressure to see what is going on. It could be low, or the pump itself may be just going bad.

Here is a link to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Most parts stores will lend / rent you the fuel pressure gauge.

Here are the manufacturer's specs for fuel pressure specific to your vehicle:

Fuel Pressure .................... 58 psi ± 2 psi

If you find the pump is bad, here are the directions for replacement. The bad news is the tank needs removed to access the pump. I will provide the directions for both tank removal and pump removal.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

FUEL TANK REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL


pic 1

1. Loosen clamp (9) and disconnect rubber fill hose (3) at tank fitting (7).


pic 2

2. At rear of tank, disconnect fuel pump module electrical jumper connector (5) from body connector (6).
3. At rear of tank, disconnect EVAP lines (2) and (3) from lines (1) and (4).
4. At front of tank, disconnect fuel and EVAP lines (9) and (10) from lines (11) and (12).
5. Support tank with a hydraulic jack.


pic 3

6. Remove bolts (1) and (2) at right side of fuel tank.
7. Remove bolts (3) at left side of fuel tank.
8. Lower tank for removal.
9. If fuel tank is to be replaced, remove fuel pump module from tank. Refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation procedures.

INSTALLATION


pic 4

1. If fuel tank is to be replaced, install fuel pump module into tank. Refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation procedures.
2. Position fuel tank to hydraulic jack.
3. Raise tank until positioned to body.
4. Install and tighten bolts (1) (2) and (3). Refer to Torque Specifications.


pic 5

5. Remove hydraulic jack.
6. Connect EVAP, ORVR, fuel and NVLD lines at front and rear of tank.
7. Connect fuel pump module electrical jumper connector (5) to body connector (6).


pic 6

8. Connect rubber fill hose (3) to tank fitting (7) and tighten clamp (9).
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Fill fuel tank with fuel.
11. Start engine and check for fuel leaks near top of module.


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

To access the pump, the fuel pump module needs removed.

FUEL PUMP MODULE
REMOVAL

WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF). BEFORE SERVICING THE FUEL PUMP MODULE, THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED.


pic 7

1. Drain and remove fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Removal/Installation.
2. Note rotational position of module before attempting removal. An indexing arrow is located on top of module for this purpose.
3. Position Special Tool 9340 (3) into notches on outside edge of lockring (5).
4. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (1) to tool 9340 (3).
5. Rotate breaker bar counter-clockwise to remove lockring.
6. Remove lockring. The module will spring up slightly when lockring is removed.
7. Remove module from fuel tank. Be careful not to bend float arm while removing.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: Whenever the fuel pump module is serviced, the rubber seal (gasket) must be replaced.


pic 8

1. Using a new seal (gasket), position fuel pump module into opening in fuel tank.
2. Position lockring (5) over top of fuel pump module.
3. Rotate module until embossed alignment arrow points to center alignment mark. This step must be performed to prevent float from contacting side of fuel tank. Also be sure fuel fitting on top of pump module is pointed to drivers side of vehicle.
4. Install Special Tool 9340 (3) to lockring.
5. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker (1) into Special Tool 9340 (3).
6. Tighten lockring (clockwise) until all seven notches have engaged.
7. Install fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Removal/ Installation.

_______________________________________________________________________

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Sometimes at idle, the engine will sputter and the RPM's will drop but it will correct itself after a few seconds. It has never quit and I've never gotten a check engine light. Today, it wouldn't start for about 10 tries. Once it finally started, it ran fine and also started fine. Still no engine light. Any ideas?

Mass air flow sensor?
O2 Sensor?
Throttle Position Sensor?

First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system. You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

My sister shipped her car to a forgein country and they can't figure out what parts need to be replaced. The car just won't start. She says it basically feels like it's out of gas whenever she tries to start it. Even on a full gas tank. The codes she gets are:
P0051
P0505
P0158
P0455.

Any clues? I've looked up what the codes mean, but the mechanic doesn't know what needs to be replaced.

P0505 – Idle Control System Malfunction
P0158 – Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0455 – Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

None of these codes will prevent the engine from starting. Also, fault codes never say to replace parts. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis.

If the engine runs normally for about two seconds, then stalls, it is in theft mode. Unlock the front doors with the key or use the remote key fob to turn the system off.

Jeep started running rough, put higher octane gas in and worked for a few days. Car started running rough again and this time when engine was turned off it would not start up again. Took it to a new Dodge dealer and they say we need a new computer $1000.00 plus spark plugs and engine had a build up of carbon. Car has had all it maintenance through 100,000 miles and just had an inspection and oil change at our local Dodge dealer back where we live and there was no suggestion that the car had any carbon, spark plug or computer problems. Even the tow truck driver said he felt it was the fuel pump when it was towed to this new dealer. No engine alerts or lights ever came on when it was running rough to show the computer was bad. Are we being taken by this Dealer? Our Dodge dealer is about 200 miles away. We think we might be being taken advantage of. What do you think?

get a second opinion if you dont believe them.

anything can happen at anytime no matter when you had it serviced.

pricing is about right. i would get another opinion.

Roy

Per my son, if the computer was failing we should have had some error messages or engine lights should have come on. None of this happened. We are going to get a second opinion. I was hoping you would have stated if the engine lights should have come on.

they do not have to come on for a computer failure. most of the time, it is a software failure and will not code. unfortunately, there is no warning for that

Roy

Thank you Roy that response helps. You have a good night and I hope our second opinion on the car comes out a little less money!!!

There are no service lights on. checked fuses, checked fuel pump. ran through diagnostics twice no codes. also starts with starting fluid. bench tested fuel pump and the pump is fine. once installed nothing and no fuel is coming out of the fuel rail. I have plenty of spark, battery is good, checked just about everything. please guys any ideas? Help!

Good morning.

Does the pump run while installed in the truck?

Did you verify power to the fuel pump?

I attached a diagram for you to view. Check both fuses listed for power on both sides. Then you need to test for power at the relay.



Roy

I HAVE A 2004 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 4.0. I HAVE REPLACED THE IGNITION COIL, FUEL FILTER, AND PLUGS. I AM GETTING FUEL AT THE FUEL RAIL.IT STILL JUST TURNS OVER AND OVER AS IF THERE IS NO FIRE. WHAT NEXT PLEASE?????????????

The ignition system is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM).
The ignition system consists of:
• Spark Plugs
• Ignition Coil(s)
• Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
• Crankshaft Position Sensor
• Camshaft Position Sensor
• The MAP, TPS, IAC and ECT also have an effect on the control of the ignition system.

If it is confirmed that there are no sparks, then you need to go down the list and check those.

Was anything done prior to this occurring and have you tried to retrieve for trouble codes?

So a couple days ago I was driving and my vehicle has shut off while sitting at a light. It started right back up but would die every other light but it started right up. Got home shut off the car let it sit for a while. Went to start it again but it was all crank no start. So I tried to fix it. I’ve changed the spark plugs the crankshaft sensor. I’ve change the battery terminals and cables. I changed fuses and relays. I had a crack in the air intake I fixed that. But still only cranking but not starting. I don’t think it’s the starter because it’s cranking but not starting. So now the next 2 to look at would be the alternator and fuel pump right? I’m not to sure on what else it can be I just want a second opinion before I tear the vehicle apart again to change the 2.

Hello, I'm Danny.

Yes, I would start first with a fuel pressure test.If you don't have access to a tester most auto parts store have a tool loaner program and will rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Your Jeeps fuel pressure should be 45-55 p.s.i. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

Hold on. We need to diagnose this. You've seen that throwing random parts at it is the most expensive and least effective way to solve this. If the starter is cranking the engine at the right speed, you know that is okay. The alternator doesn't do anything until it is spinning from the running engine, so forget that. We know all the spark plugs aren't going to fail at the same time. One bad one would cause a misfire but the engine would still idle at the proper speed.

Before we go any further, you should be aware of a new variable you added so it doesn't cause you to get "wrapped around the axle" with confusion. When you disconnected the battery, memory power was lost to the Engine Computer. All the other fuel trim numbers and sensor data will be relearned automatically as soon as the engine starts running, except for " minimum throttle". That requires a very specific set of conditions for the relearn to take place, and until that occurs, idle speed will be too low. The engine may not even start and run unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". You won't get the nice "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm at start-up, and it will tend to stall at stop signs. Once everything else is solved, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals. At that point the computer will know when it has to be in control of idle speed.

The second problem with disconnecting the battery is that erased any diagnostic fault codes in the Engine Computer, so that valuable information was lost. You can try reading them again, but for the two sensors related to this problem, fault codes often do not set just from cranking the engine. They typically need more time to for a defect to be detected, as in when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. The point is we can't assume anything just because certain fault codes are not currently set.

For a 2004 model, you should still be able to read the fault codes yourself by cycling the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds, leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. You can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you.

The next concern is the air gap is critical for the new crankshaft position sensor. A new one will have either a thick paper spacer glued to the end, or a thin plastic rib molded on the end to set that gap. When the paper spacer is used, it slides off and is lost the first time you start the engine, but its job is done by that time. If you pull it out and reinstall it later, you need to use a new spacer. If you're installing a used sensor with the plastic rib, it has worn partially away, so you need to cut the remaining part of that rib off, then use a paper spacer. If the replacement crank sensor was new, it should be okay, but if you installed a used one, and pushed it in as far as it would go, it likely got broken from the flywheel hitting it.

If there are no fault codes set related to the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor, you'll need a scanner to view live data and see if the signals are showing up from them during cranking. I have a Chrysler DRB3 for all of my vehicles. That one lists each sensor with a "No" or "Present" to show the signal status. If one remains on "No", that is the circuit that needs to be diagnosed. About half the time the sensor itself is defective. There can also be wiring and connector terminal problems to check for.

Be aware too that both of these sensors commonly fail on all car brands by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for about an hour. The typical observation is the engine runs fine as long as you're driving and natural air flow keeps them cool. When you stop a hot engine for a short time, as in when stopping for gas, engine heat migrates up to the sensor causing one to fail. Hopefully you'll get a diagnostic fault code directing you to the suspect sensor, but when there are no codes, the scanner becomes almost a necessity.

Let me know if you find any fault codes, then we'll continue on.

i have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee. When I try to start it, it makes a whining noise, and it back fired once. What could be the problem?

OK Feller!

I may or may not be able to help you all the way thru this

Buuuuut, I will try.

Others will jump in, and help if I get hung up!

Just to expedite things, things you will be asked regardless, by any one else!!!

Generally the "Whining" is me, if mine will not start!

So let's ELABORATE on stuff!!!!----We like every factor thrown out at once as it will steer us in the correct direction and REALLY SPEED THINGS UP!!!

Recent problems--repairs--HISTORY, leading to this?

What's been done or tried THUS FAR?....Down to, wiping your fingerprints off of the hood!

Is it turning over?

Will it run at all?

At what point does the backfiring occur?

Could the noise be coming from the starter area?....Hung up in flywheel and won't come out?......Sound location will help greatly.

Is is a Whirrrrrrrrrrrr! Or a Grind and then a Whirrrrrrr?

Stuff you provide really helps out.

You are our EYES-EARS-HANDS

The Medic

I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee the car is cranking but will not stay running I tried neutral to see if it would start nothing can you help I also tried the fuses nothing happened I do not see anything on here that fits what has happened

The 200 character minimum is to force you to provide enough information or detail so someone can figure out an answer. To start with, put some punctuation in that huge sentence so we know how to read it. First you said it's cranking, then you tried neutral. If it's cranking in park, what is putting it in neutral going to get you? The starter circuit is working. Next you said it "will not stay running" which implies it did start and run a few seconds before it quit. Is that right? If it runs for two seconds, then quits, it is in anti-theft mode. The additional clue is it will not run again until you turn the ignition switch all the way back to "off". Use the remote key fob "unlock" button or unlock the front door with the key to get it out of theft mode.

If the engine does not start or run at all, start by checking for spark and fuel pressure. If you have spark but no fuel pressure, suspect the fuel pump. If you have no spark, chances are the fuel pump won't be running either but that can be misleading because it will still run for one second each time you turn on the ignition switch. That will result in enough fuel pressure to make it look like the pump is running. If there is no spark there may be a related diagnostic fault code. I can describe how to read them yourself, but only codes in the Engine Computer.

My vehicle was starting slower and slower then it would not start at all. It will crank until the battery drained but will not ignite. I put a new straight six coil pack on it. Put a plug in one of the slots while the coil was plugged In and it produces no spark. Put a new crankshaft positioned sensor on it and that was not the issue either. Could It be something simpler or the timing?

Check if you have voltage to that coil pack at the dark green/orange wire with the key on run.
If not, first check the fuse #6 (hot all the time) in the PDC located under the hood, right front corner, near the battery.
You also need to check the fuse #12 (hot with key on run/start) in the junction block behind the left side of dash.
If both of these fuses are not blown and have battery voltage (twelve volts) to both sides of the fuse when hot, try a new auto shutdown relay in that PDC.

I have already checked all fuses and all them are good. I currently cannot find my tester so I will buy a new one tonight and let you know how that goes. We are about to buy a camshaft sensor next and check to see if that is the issue.

top replacing parts for right now and test.
Let me know the voltage to that wire and when checking fuses you should use a voltmeter or at least a 12 volt test light just incase a fuse, ignition switch or wire feeding it has no power.

I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I was sitting at a red light a few months ago and it just died. There was no warning or rough idling. It started right back up but from that point on it started dying while driving down the road. It usually started right back up but for the last few months it may start back up in 5 minutes or it may be 5 hours or so before it will start. Then sometimes it will not start at all from the first time of the day. When it will not start I've noticed that on the cluster there is a key symbol with a line through it that is on. There has been just a couple of times that the symbol has not been on and it still will not start. I know that the symbol in the manual states that its a security issue or an electrical problem. We have new keys so the security is not the problem. I have read several articles about this issue but they all say that their radios and interior lights flicker and pop like there's a short. Mine is not doing that. When it runs it runs great but it has got to where we do not drive it anymore because it has left us stranded one too many times. Please help and don't forget that I do not have a money tree in my back yard. LOL

check fuel pressure with a gague first autoparts rent it. also if it fails to start if pressure ok try resetting security if it starts then have apro scan it to see what is wrong with it. fp 44-54 psi

If there is an engine code try scanning that. I saw a problem similar to this in a liberty just recently. The car would start and run but when you tried to accelerate the car would shut down. Pulled the code it was the throttle positioning sensor. It was reading an incorrect voltage and was closing the throttle plate and shutting down the engine to prevent the alternative of opening the throttle plate all the way. Its a safety feature built into cars with electronic throttle bodies. Like Hmac300 said i would pull the code and see what it says

Well, my security key stays on my dashboard then gas light comes on a few minutes later. then the check engine light comes on when i have the key in the on position.

Good morning,

when you turn the key to on, does the security light go out after about 10 seconds or does it stay on? That will tell me if it is a security issue. If it is, do you have another key to try to start the car?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

As far as the check engine light, do you know the code? If you do not, you will need a code reader to check the code.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Can you hear the fuel pump run while cranking or when you turn on the key?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Roy

I was driving my vehicle two days in a row stopped at my buddy house turned it off and now it wont start it. Turns over but no start.

Hello,

This could be a problem with your Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP). Your vehicle's CKP is used by the Power-train Control Module (PCM) or "computer" to determine the rotational speed of the crankshaft and for the misfire monitor. If the PCM isn't getting a signal from the CKP it doesn't know that the engine is cranking. I have included diagrams for both the 4.0L and 4.7L engines because you didn't specify which your vehicle had in the diagrams down below. I have also included a few links for you to go to down below as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out please.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I got a CKP from AutoZone and still a no start.

Hello again,

Okay, when you turn the key to start, what does your vehicle do? Does it do nothing? Do you here a click? or does the engine crank and just not start?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

It cranks but doesn't start.

Hello again,

Okay, there are three things that are needed to make an engine start. Fuel, spark (delivered at the proper time), and compression. Since it was running fine when you took it over to your buddies house, we can reasonably assume that is not that. So let's check and make sure that your vehicle is getting spark. I have included a link for you to go to down below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please go through the guide and get back to us with what you find out, please.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros